You can check out the interview here: Jack Burton Releases Gun Safe Knowledge (Interview)

During my home defense project, I purchased several Fulcrum wireless outdoor motion sensor lights.  I installed a couple underneath eaves in the back, one over the garage, and another around the front corner of the house.  My objective was to cover the perimeter of the house, and I completed it successfully.  I had purchased an extra light for the project, thinking that I would need five to cover all the sides, but since four did the trick, it just sat in a box for a month.

A few weeks ago, for my daughter’s birthday, I picked up one of those Home Depot swing set kits…the ones that only cost $300, until you find out you need to buy an additional 200 lbs of lumber, an extra swing and a slide.  Anyways, I dropped some cash, put it together, she loves it, and I, of course love that she loves it.

Well, a couple days ago, I was in the backyard, pushing her on the swing, when it dawned on me; I can mount that extra light to the top of the swing set!  I bought the playground–there’s no reason I can’t have fun with it too, right?

As I mentioned, the motion sensor lights are simple to install, and since they can be mounted on virtually any surface, driving two screw into the 4×4 crossbeam was cake.

Now when someone steps into the center of my yard at night, they get caught in an LED crossfire.  There’s a 25 ft² sweet spot in my backyard that triggers three lights at once, lighting up darn near the entire lawn.  It looks like a night game at Wrigley field…my neighbors just think it’s terrific.

Not a whole lot more to the story here–just an example of the fun you can have when you get creative with spare security resources.

Stay safe!

Fulcrum 20031-101 Motion Sensor LED Porch Light, Silver Provide instant security to your front portion with the ultra bright Fulcrum Motion Sensor Light.

As I’ve made it very clear in previous posts, I’m a huge fan of the Shotlock, and I’m happy to call it a part of my personal home defense solution.  With it, I’m able to keep my Mossberg 500 loaded, secure, and accessible, should I have an unwelcome visitor rapping, rapping, rapping at my chamber door.

That said, where the Shotlock comes up a little short is in the accessories accommodation department.  Ghost rings, pistol grips, and anything receiver-mounted typically need to be removed before the firearm will fit.  A stripped gun is still fun, but I’ve really grown accustomed to having a side saddle on the receiver for quick reloads  This was pretty much impossible, until I threw together this zany home brew modification a couple weeks ago.

Using the power of industrial strength Velcro (duct tape’s ugly sister), I’m able to open the Shotlock, remove the gun, and mount the side saddle on the receiver within seconds.  Here’s the run down:

- First, you need a Velcro mounting system for your gun and your shell carrier.  This guy from SoCal Webshooters made a great set of instructions you can use to do it: DIY Shotgun Side Saddle Conversion.  I know I say this a lot, but if I can do it, you can do it.
**Important note: put the loop side (fuzzy) on the gun’s receiver, and the hooks (prickly) on the back of the saddle.  The Shotlock has felt on the inside of the door, and you’ll shoot this whole operation to hell if you mix this up.

- At this point, you should have fuzzy Velcro stuck to your gun, and prickly Velcro stuck to the carrier.
Cut off an additional strip of fuzzy-sided Velcro, roughly the same length as the shell carrier (it doesn’t have to be perfect).  Now peel off the adhesive backing, and stick it vertically to the face of the Shotlock, forming a lovely landing strip ( ).

- Hang the shottie in the Shotlock, close her up, and slap the side saddle on the front.  You’re done, my friend.

Questions you may have:

How much does this all cost?

The Shotlock lists at $169, the Tacstar side saddle was $24, and four feet of industrial strength Velcro was $10.

How long did the modification take?

Twenty minutes, tops.

Does a Velcro-backed side saddle actually stay fastened during recoil?

I’ve never had any trouble.  In fact, some folks who need to change up different loads in hurry (competition shooters, namely), actually prefer the Velcro method.  Give the adhesive 24 hours to fully adhere before you start using it.

Am I going to have sticky crap all over my gun if I decide to remove the Velcro down the road?

Doubtful.  If you do, just use a little solvent to get it off.

You know, they make 7-shell holders for the Mossberg 500 – why only four on yours?

The gun pictured is a 20 gauge Mossberg 500c, and the only receiver mount accessory I could find was the four round Tacstar side saddle.  All things considered, it does the job.  Besides, I have another five on the stock.

Why use a 20 gauge for home defense?

We’re digressing, but I’ve shared my thoughts on this before…20 gauge shotgun for home defense.

You know you need to quit taking these pictures with your phone, right?

I lost my camera charger, I’m too cheap to replace it, and I can’t figure out how to make one out of all this extra Velcro…seriously though, sorry for the crappy quality.

I’m done – if you have any questions, feel free to drop a comment or send me an email.

Stay safe!

Tacstar 4-Pack Shot Shell Carrier Mossberg 500 Side Saddle (20 Gauge)

Advanced Technology Black 5 Shot-Shell Holder Top Folder SHO0500

Tacstar Mossberg 930/935 Shot Shell Carrier- 6 round SideSaddle

There was a scene (SORTA SPOILER) when Bruce Willis and Mary-Louise Parker are busting into the CIA underbelly, and they run into a door with a lock on it that Bruce Willis’ character deems “impossible”.  He subsequently gains access to the room behind the door by busting through the good-enough-for-government-work drywall (the movie is that kind of fantastic).

About 10 seconds after that scene, I said to my wife, “I wonder what kind of lock that was”…she didn’t care.  I remained curious.

I thought I’d have a huge task on my hands, but when I Googled “red movie lock”, right there at the top was a link to this Actuator Systems page.

It turns out the company is quite proud of the cameo…they even throw in a Mr. Skin-style time stamp citing when the lock makes an appearance (51:33…incidentally, Mary-Louise Parker never takes her shirt off).

Anyways, the unit featured is the Actuator LC-200 PIN-entry/biometric deadbolt lock.  Now, as you may or may not know, I’m a relative proponent of biometric technology when it’s employed on quick-access pistol boxes.  However, I still can’t make the jump to trusting a fingerprint reader as the sole means of protecting access to anything worth more than a few hundred bucks.  I welcome disagreement here, but I just don’t think biometric technology is quite there (it will be).  That said, from what I’ve read, Actuator Systems is one of the best in the biz at developing fingerprint scanning devices.

What I love about the LC-200, other than the fact that it’s a movie star, is that you have the option of requiring both a successful fingerprint read and a PIN entry.  This is very similar to the S&G Z03 safe lock, offering a supreme layer of hi-tech redundancy to your door’s security needs.

The number of CIA employees is classified, and I have no idea how many have access to the locked room in Red, but by employing the LC-200 biometric deadbolt locking system, it could be up to a thousand…that’s a really long, not-as-clever-in-writing-as-it-was-in-my-head way of saying, the LC-200 can store up to 1000 unique fingerprints, making it ideal for use in high traffic areas like apartment complexes and office buildings.  Because tracking 1000 people would be a logistical cluster funk, the LC-200 also captures audit trails, which can be retrieved on a USB stick and viewed on your PC.

So far, from what I’ve seen, this black-ops door knob is pretty tight.  I’m going to dig around and see if I can come up with some more information on it.  When I do (assuming they don’t kill me for digging too deep), I’ll let you know.

Stay safe!

Biometric Access Control Door Lock LC200 with 1000 Users and Audit Trail Capable.

According to the FBI, in the United States:
- an aggravated assault occurs every 35 seconds
- and a forcible rape occurs every 2 minutes

According to the United States Department of Justice:
- 38% of assaults and 60% of rapes occur during a home invasion

Statistically, 1 in every 5 homes will get broken into.

I got the stats mentioned above from the following site.  I’m pretty sure they’re outdated, as  I believe crime rates in those categories have dropped a bit…nevertheless, they make good persuasive speech fodder…yeh, I’m one of those guys.

Fortunately in Ohio, the law serves in favor of the property owner.  Under our state’s Castle Doctrine Law, if someone is unlawfully in your home and you feel they intend to do you or your family harm, you have the right to defend yourself and your loved ones through any means necessary, including deadly force.

If you kill an intruder in your home or your car, you legally do not have the burden of proof regarding your actions, nor do you have the “duty to retreat”, essentially meaning you tried to avoid a fight during the home invasion.

Don’t pay any mind to my words–read your state laws…here’s Ohio’s.

Home invasion, aggravated assault, rape; these are all elements of society that we, as good law-abiding citizens, generally don’t like to think about. That, however, does not excuse us from having the duty–more importantly–the right to prevent ourselves and loved ones from becoming victims.

Taking preventative measures like consistently locking our doors and windows and investing in a monitored alarm system are certainly excellent steps in the right direction, and will likely deter the majority of criminals.  That said, there’s always the looming possibility, as minimal as it may be, that the intruder–or intruders–in your home don’t plan on leaving.  The 10 minutes it takes a police unit to respond–assuming they’ve even been notified–can be along time to wait when your life is in danger.

Regardless of how enthusiastic your neighborhood watch program is, there is always a chance that YOU have to be the first responder.

So what home defense tools…what weapons do you have in place?

My guess is the majority of you don’t really have anything.  In other words, you’re unarmed.  Despite my previously mentioned alarming statistics, chances are still pretty darn good you’ll never be forced to stave off an intruder in your home.  I hope you don’t, but if you do, I hope you’re a heck of a boxer.

Another few of you may be relying on a more melee approach.  You might have a knife or a baseball bat under your bed or in the corner of your room.  While they don’t require any ammunition, and virtually zero maintenance, they’re also quite limiting.

Their effectiveness depends on you getting close to the assailant(s), and weapons with extended range likely require you to use two hands, thus making it nearly impossible to hold a flashlight.  Not to mention, there’s always the possibility that the intruder could overpower you and use it against you.  And frankly, there likely aren’t many of us in this room who posses the mental and emotional capacity to be able to effectively beat or stab a man to death.

Enthusiasts like myself, as well as security experts generally agree that the best weapon class for home defense is a firearm.  That, however, is the point where general agreement stops.  For every expert out there who thinks semi-auto pistols are tops, there’s another who prefers double-action revolvers, and yet another who swears on civilian carbines like the AR-15 and Mini-14…let me save you the hassle of inconclusive research–the best home defense gun is one that you’re personally able to operate with the most proficiency.

Now for those of you who don’t currently have a firearm included in your home defense solution, I encourage you to ignore the aforementioned experts, and heed the words of those who praise the almighty shotgun.

A shotgun has a strong advantage over other classes of firearms in three categories:  ease of use, price and availability, and sheer stopping power with minimal risk of over-penetration.

The shotgun is believed to have been around since the 18th century, allowing hundreds of years for manufacturers to design a breed of weapon versatile enough to be used by nearly any man, woman, or child for sport, for hunting, or, in the present case, self-defense.

Barring LE use, and special NFA regulations, Barrel length ranges from 18-20”, which is a maneuverable length ideal for home defense usage, all the way up to 30-34” barrels, popular for trap shooting.

Unlike other guns, shotguns don’t fire bullets–they fire shot or slugs, which are packed into shotshells.  The shot in shotshells consists of small pellets, and the size and the number of pellets in the shell is primarily determined by gauge.  Now, I won’t get into the details of determining gauge, and load variance

…

What’s important to remember is that nearly every shotgun round, despite the gauge, has man-stopping potential, allowing you, regardless of your stature and shooting experience to find one that you can operate.  You have virtually limitless options

Each shot from a shotgun can send anywhere from half a dozen to several hundred pellets (depending on the load) at a target in a conical pattern.  That said, the further you are from a target, the more the pattern will spread.

This phenomenon is no doubt what has inspired the common myth “you can’t miss with a shotgun”.

Inside your house, shooting down a 15 foot hallway, doesn’t give the shot pattern much of an opportunity to spread.  That said, you can absolutely miss with a shotgun.  This is why it’s so important to, as with any other gun, learn how to safely, and effectively operate it.

And the only way to become proficient is to shoot, and shoot often.  Fortunately, shotgunning relatively affordable.

A decent pistol will cost you $400 on the low-end, and a good, stripped down AR-15 can rarely be found for less than $800.  On the other hand, a gently used, low-maintenance pump-action can be commonly purchased for as little as $150.  For the sake of practice, ammunition is also comparatively inexpensive.  A box of 25 rounds of 12 gauge birdshot can be purchased for under $6.00.

Proficient shooting is a discipline that requires a good financial investment, but with a shotgun, you’ll at least be able to keep costs to a minimum.

Finally, there is no other class of firearms available to the civilian market that rivals the stopping power of a shotgun in a home defense scenario:

One round of 12 gauge buckshot can do as much damage to an intruder as hitting them with 9 rounds from a submachine gun.

410, the smallest shotgun gauge can pack the same muzzle energy as a 357 magnum.

and a round of 20 gauge buckshot, which is significantly smaller than the aforementioned 12 gauge, hits with the equivalent force of shooting an intruder with 2 44 magnums at the same time.

Those of you who can’t appreciate the magnitude of that comparison, go watch Dirty Harry…go watch it anyway…

Perhaps the shotgun’s strongest suit is that it can provide the said level of power while keeping penetration to a minimum, meaning you likely aren’t risking the lives of those behind the drywall when you take a shot at the bad guy.

The bottomline is, if you’re caught in a situation where your life is in danger, you need to end it as quickly as possible, while minimizing risk to innocent bystanders.  I challenge anyone to find a weapon that more adequately meets a balance between stopping power and damage control.

I could discuss for hours the benefits of a shotgun for home defense.  Fortunately, for many of you, my time is limited.

I know that not all of you are about to run out and add a shotgun to your home defense arsenal, and some of you might outright be opposed to firearms in general, and I certainly respect an educated argument.  If you take anything away from this speech, it’s my hope that regardless of your defense strategy, you become more cognizant, and in turn more vigilant in your efforts to enjoy peace and safety in your home with your family.

Home invasion is one of society’s foulest bowel movements.  News about a victimized family leaves an impression on me similar to blindly walking into a blown up bathroom stall, and seeing a spackled toilet seat; my stomach feels ill, the stink makes me cry, and I have an overwhelming desire to kill the sick bastard guilty of the crime.  The only demographic I rank below home invaders–the burglars, rapists, murderers, sadists, and monsters, who terrorize American families in their own homes–are practicing child molesters.

My passionate analogies are drawn only from an outsider’s perspective.  I’ve been fortunate enough in my life to have never lost anyone to this savage act, and I’m more than happy to invest the time and money needed to ensure that the trend continues.

Accepted notion suggests that criminals are a lot like bullies on the playground.  They tend to prey on the weak–the easy target–not the 200 lbs kid doing one-arm pull ups on the monkey bars.  I decided that I want my house to be that 200 lbs kid that they don’t mess with…actually, I really want my house to be a seven foot tall, fire-farting lumberjack pumped on steroids, and out of his mind on angel dust, but that’s more of a long-term goal than a current realization.

With a recent investment barely cracking $800, I’ve built myself a pretty secure castle defense system.  There are certainly much more expensive (and effective) home defense solutions on the market, but my wife and I created a $1000 budget for the project, and all things considered, I feel we’ve gotten our money’s worth.

Home defense is a buzzword often used among firearms enthusiasts and security industry gurus to discuss topics like ammunition penetration, night optics, and close-quarters combat.  While these elements certainly make up the most potent piece of the pie–one, might I add, that I thoroughly enjoy–there’s a lot more that goes into home defense than a dead bad guy and a smoking gun–home security, another loosely defined buzzword, is one of them.

My defense strategy is layered in home security, consisting of contingency planning, motion detectors, floodlights, and alarms, rather than a brute-force-first approach.  Don’t get me wrong–I unapologetically cheer when I read accounts of armed citizens putting down animals terrorizing their homes.  Violence, however, is as risky as it is grizzly, and frankly, I’d rather avoid it if possible.  Firearms definitely have a place in my plan, but I prefer a good night sleep over a gun fight.

If you’re like I was until recently, you’ve probably skimped on an alarm system because you sleep with a pistol next to your bed.  Well, let me ask you, do you have the training and experience under your belt to claim with confidence that you could wake up out of a dead sleep in the dark and neutralize the three armed intruders at the foot of your stairs, while protecting your kids who’re currently spread out, sleeping in different rooms in the house?

If you can say yes to that, then please, let me say to you, thank you.  It is a terrific honor to have an elite badass like yourself reading my blog…you and Lee Marvin were incredible in The Delta Force.

Ok, I realize that Chuck Norris isn’t the only person capable of handling the aforementioned scenario, but I can all-but-guarantee that you’re not one of the few who could…neither could I.  A gun is a tool, not a security blanket, and while it’s prudent to keep one nearby, having one doesn’t give you an excuse to be ignorant about your family’s safety; it shouldn’t be your sole means of protection.  Employing this simple logic, I decided to spend most of my budget on a security buffer, rather than additional firepower.

Starting from the outside and working all the way into the bedroom (giggity!), here are the meat and potatoes of my recent home defense investment.

Motion Sensor Outdoor Lighting:

I’ve actually heard a few arguments against the use of security lighting; they help show a burglar a better way in; someone who really wants to get inside isn’t going to be phased by them…ok, points noted, but there are a couple personal factors that I have to take into consideration; there are a few punk kids in my neighborhood who are afraid of being seen, and if lights keep them from screwing with a parked car in my driveway, it’s worth the investment.

I also have a good relationship with a couple watchful neighbors, and if they happen to be looking out the window and notice a ne’-er-do-well snooping around, they’re going to bring it to my attention.  That said, lights are a part of my playbook.

Four wireless motion sensor outdoor lights with range covering the perimeter of my house offer the first layer of security in my home defense project.  I had to think about my ultimate decision to choose wireless over a more professional, generally more powerful hardwired configuration, but after weighing the pros and cons, I made the selection pretty quickly.

Wireless lights are a piece of cake to install, and in the realm of handy work, I’m a bumbling idiot, particularly with electricity.  The model I purchased came with a mounting kit, so all I needed was a power drill, a ladder, and a place to put it–obviously, no wiring required.  The problem, however, with battery power is that batteries eventually need to be replaced.  Aside from the $20 it will cost me to change 16 C batteries on an annual basis, it’s not really a big deal.  Nonetheless, four dead lights aren’t going to do anyone any good (especially the burglar who’s depending on them to see his way in ), so if you don’t think you can spare the 15 minutes a year to change out the batteries, you may want to spend the time up-front on a hardwired setup.

Wireless lights, the ones in my price range anyway, also tend to be noticeably less powerful than the wired breed.  They definitely light up their 25 ft range of coverage, but it’s not terribly intense.  That said, I opted for LED bulbs, which emit a very clean light with an almost bluish hue.  They have virtually zero glare, and even thought they aren’t particularly strong, their clear output makes it easy to see what’s lurking around outside.  LED lights also last forever, so while I’ll need to keep an eye on the battery life, the bulbs themselves will probably outlast me (or at least my dog).

I bought the Fulcrum-made units off of Amazon for about $30 each.  Their body is solid, all weather resistant, and built on a 100 degree swivel, so I can point these just about anywhere (except for the sun, as advised by the manual…).  I’ve placed mine rather inconspicuously under eves, on the corners and peaking out behind a tree, however, they’re pretty sharp looking; if you want to place yours more candidly, I don’t think the home owner’s association will give you any trouble.

Again, the effectiveness of motion sensor security lighting has been the root of minor dispute, however, I feel my reasons easily justify the $120 (plus batteries) I spent on them.  If you’re looking for easy installation and flexible placement, I recommend going with wireless as well…so far, I’m happy with my choice.

Fulcrum 20031-101 Motion Sensor LED Porch Light, Silver Provide instant security to your front portion with the ultra bright Fulcrum Motion Sensor Light.

Window Security Film:

I watched a YouTube video a while back of a guy beating the crap out of a store window with a baseball bat; he gave it heck for nearly two minutes before he finally broke through.  The storefront was protected with window security film, and ever since I watched that clip, I’ve wanted to mess with the stuff myself.

Well, as it turns out, messing with it–the installation anyway–wasn’t as fun as I’d hoped, however, I’m still pretty excited about the final product.  I re-enforced my back door, which is essentially a dead-bolted window, with clear 12 mil-thick security film.  Despite having motion sensor lights, an alarm system and a door stopper in place (which I’ll get to in a moment), an intruder could give himself a nice lead into my house by simply breaking out the man-sized window and walking right in.  The two options I had within my budget were either installing a set of eyesore-provoking security bars, or a magically invisible force field of film; after a talk with my better half, the latter was decided for me.

My folks live down on the east coast, and they installed security film on the majority of their windows to stop hurricanes from launching lethal debris through their house.  They had the luxury of choosing it as an upgrade before the house was built.  It’s generally easier, cheaper, and slightly more effective to add security film before the windows are installed.  Unfortunately, I didn’t have that choice; I just made sure I followed the directions closely, and sealed it around the frame with a clean bead of silicone.  If you’d like to see how I did it, I wrote a little how-to, which you can find here, How to Install Window Security Film.

The sample product in the previously mentioned YouTube video was no doubt professionally installed.  I, however, am by no means a professional.  Twelve mil film, I’m told, is a little more difficult to install than the thinner eight and four mil alternatives, but this stuff needs to be able to hold up when I really need it–especially since I added it to a pre-existing window.  As mentioned, adding the film before the window is assembled gives it a stronger constitution, as it’s built directly into the frame.  That said, with the silicone seal, and the thicker gauge, I’m banking on it to act as a decent deterrent.

12 Mil Security Window Film 60″ Wide x 1yd. Sold by the yard as one continuous roll. Security Window Film Security Window Film designed to slow or prevent entry from a burglar. If the glass is broken the film will hold the window together preventing or delaying a thief from easily entering your home. Thief’s number one asset is time and the film takes that asset away. The 12mil…

Door Stoppers:

I won’t discuss this in tremendous detail since I already have in a previous post, but each of the four outside entrances leading into my house are also backed up with door stoppers.  The door leading into the garage is re-enforced with a MasterLock brace, and the three other doors are all supplemented with GE alarm door stops.  I would love to throw down some big cheddar and replace my current configuration with stronger doors, frames, and locks, but for now, I have to do it on the cheap.  Fortunately, in this case, cheap is still pretty effective.

The GE alarm stoppers I picked up are one of my favorite finds since $.69 imitation Gatorade at Aldi.  Like the standard rubber wedge stoppers we’ve all seen holding doors open in schools and offices, they’re made with the same basic tried-and-true design, which as it turns out, also does a fine job keeping a door closed.  The feature that makes them unique from the classic design, however, is the 120 decibel alarm that squeals whenever their top surface is depressed.

They’re small enough to take anywhere (perfect for hotels), they run on a 9-volt battery, they seem to grip to just about any floor surface (carpet included), and they’re extremely cheap (less than $10/pop).  The only downside to these little gems is that they require manual implementation.

I have to remember to place them under the doors every night before bed, and one of them scared the freakin’ crap out of me the other day when I came home from work and tried to open the front door, forgetting I left one in place.  That said, my wife and I have already built them into the routine, and anyone else subject to habit should have no problem following suit.

GE 50246 Smart Home Door Stop Alarm GE DOOR STOP ALARM. Pressure on door stop activates alarm. 120 decibel alarm when activated. Requires 1 9V battery (not included). Low battery indicator light. Mfg # 50246

The door jammer re-enforcing the man-door in the garage was also pretty inexpensive–I think I bought it for around $20.  I couldn’t use the wedged door stoppers on this entrance due to the door’s slight elevation from the floor.  The brace is fully adjustable, allowing it to fit any door, as advertised (including sliding doors), so it was very easy to put into place.

The MasterLock unit I purchased is on the cheaper end of the spectrum, relative to similar products on the market.  Nevertheless, it’s rated with the ability to withstand 350 lbs of direct force before it starts to buckle.  Naturally, I can’t help but remember the training montage in Rocky IV when Ivan Drago throws a punch measuring 2150 PSI.  This begs the question, is 350 lbs of resistance really going to make a difference?

Heaven help me if Dolph Lundgren ever wants me dead, but the short answer is, yes.  A door jammer brace certainly doesn’t make a door impossible to break through, however, it can most definitely make a difference.  For one, anyone trying to gain access through forceful entry will be striking the door, which in combination with the frame and the deadbolt, will absorb a good deal the force; thus, the brace won’t be taking the entire blow directly.  In addition, the Russian monster who killed Apollo Creed isn’t your run-of-the-mill intruder.  Some martial arts experts can register over 600 lbs of force with a solid strike, but all things considered, the brace should buy me at least a few extra seconds, even with Kung Fu Panda storming the castle.

Master Lock 265DCCSEN Dual-Function Security Bar Adjusts to fit most hinged and sliding doors / Top piece removable / Rugged 20 gauge steel construction / Pivoting ball joint assures contact with floor

I digress…moving onto the next section…

Wireless Alarm System:

My bias for wireless technology remains evident as I move into the next section of my home defense efforts; my alarm system.  A few months ago, a good friend of mine wrote a Simplisafe review, which he allowed me to publish on the site.  It covers in great detail both his experience with the product, as well as his favorable reflection on its features.  Reading his take on the wireless alarm system must have really resonated with me because, about a month ago, I finally picked one up for myself.

Simplisafe is the pinnacle of canned do-it-yourself home security.  They’re missing a few features that I wish were available, but the system is built around a strong fundamental core (hence the “simple” moniker), which boils down to what I’m really looking for.  The system is comparatively cheap, even with the optional monthly monitoring plan, plus; I own it, it’s wireless, scalable, ridiculously easy to install, and thus far, it’s proven itself to be dependable.

Costing me $400 on the nose, half the spending of my home defense budget went toward the alarm system.  I’ve been meaning to get one for five years, and finally bit the bullet.  Even with the door stoppers, security film, motion sensor lighting, and the fact that we’re armed and ready in the bedroom (take that however you’d like), the package isn’t near complete without a monitored security system.  While I’m not exactly dropping my guard, I’ve honestly had a lot more peace of mind since I set it up.

There are times, on occasion, when I’m not home at night, and I like giving my wife the extra assurance.  Moreover, there are times when no one’s home at all, and it’s nice to have someone, even if it’s just a computer with a sexy voice (the Simplisafe voiceover lady sounds hot) keeping an eye on things.  Not to mention, if my family and I ever have to hunker down behind a locked bedroom door (aiming a shotgun accordingly), it will be a nice consolation to know that the cops are on their way.

As noted, I decided to go with the wireless option through-and-through.  The Simplisafe system operates off of one central hub, which is referred to as the base station.  The base station is essentially the brains of the system.  The sexy alarm lady’s voice also comes from the base station, letting you know when a door or window is open, as well as a handful of other naughty things.  Simplisafe tends to cater to the apartment and condo dwelling crowd due to its tidy package, and simple installation and removal.  However, the base station has an operating range of over 500 feet, so it has the potential to cover nearly any home or small business.

Up to 26 devices can be tagged to a single base station, including the keypad (which is included), panic buttons (which immediately send a call to the dispatcher), motion detectors, entry point sensors, and auxiliary sirens.  All the devices operate off of the base station, and can be added, removed, and replaced at any time.  The system doesn’t rely on power (even the base station has a six hour battery backup) or a land line for communication, so if a burglar cuts my ties to the world, security will keep on truckin’.

As implied, you choose the devices you want when you build your security package online.  I chose entry sensors for all the doors and windows, a panic button in the bedroom, and motion sensors for the basement, should a skinny crackhead shimmy his way through the windows.

I would have liked to have added motion detectors around the ground level of the house as well, supplementing the entry sensors, but my other security system–the 85 lbs lab who walks around the house at night–would be tripping false alarms left and right.  Motion detectors are rated for pets under 50 lbs.  They say they have tricks to work around the issue, but I decided not to screw with it for now.

Other than the wireless configuration and the low-cost monitoring service ($15/month), what attracted me to Simplisafe is the ease of installation.  Seriously here, folks…if you buy a system from these guys, and can’t figure out how to install it in less than an hour, you are too stupid to live.  I make no apologies for that remark because I’m convinced there has never been, nor will there ever be anyone who has trouble installing their Simplisafe system.  You could probably just give it to your kids, and have them set it up for you.

It all comes in one neat little box, and, between the information on the USB drive they give you, and the manual, it’s busting at the seams with documentation…they give like 19 examples for installing each device, with pictures and animations included.  All devices–even the keypad–is applied with 3M sticky tape, which if you screw up, can be reapplied by following more simple instructions.  This is do-it-your-stupid-self security…I love it.

The only thing I don’t love about it, which I implied earlier, is that a few devices are missing from the menu.  I would love to see wireless security cameras, glass shatter detection, and smoke and carbon monoxide detector integration, none of which are currently available.  That said, all of the aforementioned upgrades are said to be in development; the cameras are scheduled to come out this year, and after talking to one of their reps about my site, he mentioned they’re working on an alert system specifically tailored for safes.  I hope to be playing with all of that fun stuff sooner than later.

All-in-all, the new wireless security system, is truly idiot proof, and therefore perfect for me.  In all seriousness, I think Simplisafe has struck a nice balance between cost, ease of use, and reliability–this strokes my sweet spot nicely.

My Home Defense Gun:

I love shooting, running drills, training and prepping for self-defense scenarios, but as I implied earlier in this post, I pray to God I’m never placed in a kill-or-be-killed situation, especially with my family close-by.  Nevertheless, even living in a picket fence-lined neighborhood with a slew of new security buffers in place, I’d be ignorant to dismiss the possibility of a violent encounter with an intruder.  Acknowledging this fact and failing to properly arm myself would only extend my ignorance.

So, what’s the best tool for the job?  Well, as far as weaponry is concerned, I tend to lust after swords, knives, knuckle dusters, pipe wrenches, reamers, axes, sjamboks, shillelaghs, chains, tridents and machetes, all of which will no doubt offer a fantastic fat-burning workout during the nearing zombie invasion.  However, for a situation that demands a tactical advantage, and needs to end as quickly as possible, a firearm is a must.

There are a heck of a lot of different firearms to select from for the task of home defense, but the key thing to ask yourself when picking out the right one is, which gun do I feel most comfortable betting my life on?  For me, a slide (or pump) action shotgun is a no-brainer.  If you’re already sold–more importantly, skilled–with another breed of firepower (i.e. a pistol or a carbine), don’t let me talk you out of your comfort zone.  However, if you recognize the need to protect your home and family with a gun, but you’re not very familiar with them, I would encourage you to try a shotgun out for starters.

The first gun I ever shot was a 12 gauge Winchester 101.  I was seven years old at the time, and while I had no appreciation for just how beautiful of a piece the 101 is (I’m gonna steal it next time I visit my parents – they don’t read this), I absolutely fell in love with its capacity for total annihilation.

I’m unsure who originated the following comparison (my guess is Massad Ayoob), but one of my favorite descriptive illustrations of a shotgun’s raw power is that the blast of a single 12 gauge 00 buckshot round causes the same amount of damage as 9 rounds from an SMG, all hitting a target simultaneously…I really need to test that claim sometime.  Anyways, the bottom line is, there’s just no practical substitute for the man-stopping power of a shotgun.

Umpf is a very important factor, but perhaps an even more weighted reason for choosing the shotgun as my primary home defense weapon is the personal familiarity it offers.  I have significantly more experience shooting shotguns over pistols and rifles, and as a result of that experience, I have a pretty decent aptitude for handling one.  I’ve drilled enough with a pump action shotgun that the chances of me making an operating error in the heat of the moment are significantly less than if I chose to arm myself with my AR-15.  Simply put, I’m sticking to what I’m best with.

Another huge selling point pump-guns offer is that they’re relatively inexpensive.  I think I mentioned in a previous post that a few years ago, I picked up a former police-issued Remington 870 at the local armory for $50.  Yeh, it’s a bit banged up, but it still functions the same as it did 20 years ago.  They don’t make them much more low-maintenance than slide-action shotties.  If I’m still kickin’ in 60 years, that 870 will likely be as well.

While the sky’s the limit, the price for a brand new, good quality home defense shotgun generally starts at around $300.  But again, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with buying used – I’m certainly not above it.  In fact, the gun I’ve chosen as my primary home defense weapon is a Mossberg 500c that I bought gently used for $175.

A few home defense shotguns you may want to consider:

Mossberg 500 Tactical Persuader 12 Gauge, Pump Action, 18.5″ w/CAR Stock – $364.99 at Impact Guns

Remington 870 Express Synthetic 12 Gauge, Pump Action, 18″, Fixed Cylinder, 7 Round Tube – $321.00 at Impact Guns

Benelli M4 12 Gauge Pistol Grip Stock, Ghost Rings, Semi-Automatic, 18.5″ – $1629 at Impact Guns

Practice Makes Perfect:

Getting good with your gun is just as critical, if not more so, than the quality and craftsmanship of the gun itself.  And, of course, the best way to get good with your gun is to–you guessed it–shoot it.  Fortunately, shotgun shells are also extremely inexpensive when compared to other home defense projectiles.  For instance, the gun I generally carry while I’m out and about is a 40 caliber pistol.  I’m hard-pressed to find a box of 50 target rounds for less than $15, and box of 20 AR-15 rounds–forget about it–$30 if you’re thrifty.  Shotgun fanboys like myself can send 25 rounds of birdshot down the range for less than $6.00.  The savings, for lack of a better word, starts adding up immediately.

Now even when considering the economic prowess of shotgun ammunition, I still can’t afford to shoot half as much as I’d like.  Not to mention, the price of gas and my oh-so-hectic schedule makes it a hassle to get out to the range on a regular basis.  When it comes to mastering your weapon, actually shooting it is king, but there are some nice supplemental activities you can do to hone your skills, regardless of the gun you own.

First off – clean it often.  You should treat your gun like you treat your teeth; brush after you eat – clean after you shoot; brush if you haven’t opened your mouth in a while (aka after sleeping) – clean your gun if it’s been sitting in a closet for several months.  Besides keeping it in working order and extending the life of your gun, you’ll also learn how it works in the process.  I’ll occasionally field strip my guns even if I don’t intend on cleaning them; by knowing how my firearm operates, I usually know how to quickly isolate a malfunction should it arise.

When I’m not sitting around playing Forrest Gump, taking my gun apart and putting it back together again, I like to practice pulling the trigger…in my living room.  To really get the feel for your gun, you have to practice dry-firing, and to minimize the risk of damaging your firing pin, you have to use snap caps.  I personally prefer A-Zoom snap caps.  They’re made from a single piece of heavy aluminum, matching an actual round of live ammunition almost identically.  This makes them perfect for drilling misfires, jams, and, especially in the case of a pump action shotgun, practicing quick follow-up shots and rapid reloading.  At first glance, they may appear to be priced a little high, but if used consistently, their value is priceless.

A-Zoom 12GA SHTGN METAL SNAP-CAPS 2PK Precision Metal Snap Caps12 GaugeFor safety training, function testing or safely decocking without damaging the firing pin – Precision CNC machined from solid aluminum, then hard anodized for ultra-smooth functioning and long life

Bore Diameter (Gauge):

If you haven’t already gathered, to me, there’s no sweeter weapon on the planet than a 12 gauge shotgun.  However, as I mentioned a few paragraphs back, my go-to home defense gun is a Mossberg 500c 20 gauge.  First of all, I chose the Mossberg 500 model because it’s a no-nonsense, tried-and-true design, and I don’t question its ability to perform when I need it.  Now, the reason I opted for the 20 gauge over my beloved 12 (a Mossberg 500A, for example) is three-fold…

A 20 gauge round packs less of a punch than a 12 gauge, however, it still provides incredibly lethal stopping power with instantaneous potential.  Revisiting the gun-to-gun analogy; getting hit with a round of 20 gauge #3 buckshot delivers well-nigh the same wallop as driving two .44 magnum rounds into a target at the same time…it shoots through schools .

I have full confidence in the 20 gauge’s ability to foil a home invasion, and anyone who doesn’t think it hits hard enough is wrong, and probably pees with tweezers.

The second reason I’ve opted for the 20 gauge also happens to be my number one reason; my wife can shoot it.  She’s not exactly Annie Oakley, but she can handle it adequately.  I basically have to make her shoot a 12 gauge against her will, however, with the lighter recoil from the 20, she doesn’t mind it nearly as much.  My wife will be sleeping next to the gun along with me, so it seems only logical to pick one that she’s not scared to fire.

Finally, I’ve really come to appreciate the extra spryness I get from the 20.  The lighter frame (and lighter ammo) makes it slightly easier to maneuver than the 12 gauge, which may prove beneficial in a tight home defense scenario.  In addition, while I’m borderline masochistic for the heavier 12 gauge recoil (I also like whiskey burn and tearing off mosquito bites), the 20 gauge naturally allows for quicker, well-aimed follow-up shots.

Drawing strictly from personal experience and observation, I’m calling the home defense effectiveness of 12 gauge and 20 gauge slide-action shotguns a wash.  The potential for my wife to be a primary operator is the X factor that has landed me on the decision to go with the 20.

Here’s a great article from Massad Ayoob on the benefits of a 20 gauge shotgun if you’re sick of hearing it from me.

Home Defense Ammo:

Even among shotgun enthusiasts, the load worthy of being dubbed “the best home defense round” is a topic rife with dispute.  One thing that most gurus agree on, however, is that buckshot is generally more suitable for household application than slugs or birdshot.

Shotshells loaded with birdshot and buckshot are filled with several smaller pellets within the round.  A slug, on the other hand, is a single–and might I add, nasty–piece of lead, most commonly used for long range application.  Slugs are devastatingly powerful, and a true testament to the versatility of the shotgun, but they are not recommended for common home defense use.  Over-penetration is almost inevitable, dramatically increasing the possibility of risk to innocent bystanders, like your family and neighbors.

Birdshot is on the other end of the spectrum.  As its name entails, it’s a load designed to take down fowl, and is thus designed to make the hunt a little easier.  Each round is loaded with tiny pellets–sometimes hundreds, depending on the size–which create a pattern that spreads as it travels.  This makes it a lot easier to take down a flying duck 30 yards out, than if you were chasing it down with a rifle (not to mention, that would be stupid-dangerous).

Make no mistake about it, birdshot can absolutely be lethal from close range, however, its ability to penetrate soft tissue (aka – stop the intruder from killing you), loses its effectiveness very quickly.  That said, in tight quarter situations, like apartments, where your neighbors may literally be behind your target, birdshot may be the ticket.  One popular self-defense method is to load the first two rounds with birdshot, and fill the rest of the tube with buckshot for follow-up.  The choice is honestly yours, but for what it’s worth, my Mossberg (and the 870 in the closet for that matter), is loaded with buckshot.

Buckshot is conceptually the same as birdshot in that each round is loaded with multiple pellets, but what primarily separates the two classifications is the size of the pellets themselves.  In buckshot, they’re significantly larger, allowing for maximum stopping power, while significantly reducing the risk of over-penetration (relative to slugs, rifle and pistol cartridges).  I’ve chosen to load up the 20 gauge with 2 ¾” #3 buckshot, which holds 20 pellets in each round.  The rounds I’m currently using are Winchester Super X; I’m by no means a ballistics expert, but I’ve been using this load for a while, and I feel pretty comfortable with it.  Find one you like, and go with it.

Note: buckshot is significantly more expensive than birdshot (the Super X rounds I use run me about $5.00 for a box of five after tax).  While consistently training with your “defense round” is strongly encouraged, the majority of my range time is spent slinging birdshot.

Also, despite popular mythology, you can miss with a shotgun.  While bird and buckshot create a pattern that expands exponentially as it travels, a shot down your hallway is going to spread minimally.  There’s a slight increase in margin for error, but not enough for perfection to come without practice.

My Shotgun Modifications:

There‘s no shortage of aftermarket bells and whistles to slap onto the top, bottom, and/or side(s) of your shotgun.  Some of them are great, some are garbage, and most of them simply don’t apply to what I’m looking for in this particular application.  Having said that, I’ll go through a quick run-down of what I have on the Mossberg 500c hanging on my bedroom wall.

Barrel:
My barrel isn’t exactly a modification, but I’ve chosen to stick with the 18.5” smooth bore barrel that the firearm was originally sold with.  This is both a very common and practical length for close range combat, allowing for tight maneuverability.  For my intents and purposes, there’s no real need for a longer, rifled barrel.

Barrel Mounted Flashlight:
An often underrated aspect of defensive shotgunning, particularly within the home, is being able to identify your target.  Serving also as a tactical component, casting light on the alleged assailant allows you to confirm whether the man between the cross hairs is friend or foe.

Weapon-mounted flashlight systems can get very expensive.  My buddy has a Benelli M1 with a Surefire forend setup, and it’s an absolute stud in the dark.  Of course, what’s essentially a $400 flashlight better be able to perform.  Because I’m doing my thing on the cheap, the NEBO LED light, and the Mako barrel mount I purchased off of Amazon in a package deal, cost me less than $35 altogether.  I have to admit, I thought I might be filling out some return forms when I made the purchase, however, I’m very pleased to report that I was wrong.  Shortly after mounting the flashlight, I ran 50 rounds through it without any hiccups.  Other than a slight rotation, the light stayed in place and didn’t miss a beat.

Buttstock Shell Holder:
I also picked up a nylon buttstock shell holder for less than $5.00.  This cheap, but effective little piece of gun clothing gives puts an extra five rounds by my cheek for quick reloading.  Whether it’s a buttstock holder, a receiver-mounted side saddle, or a Speedfeed stock, an add-on that bumps up your ammo capacity is as much of a “must-have” as any other aftermarket mod I can think of.

Magazine Tube Extension:
Unfortunately, a magazine tube extension can’t be practically added to the Mossberg 500c that I own.  While an extra three shots would certainly be lovely, any situation that can’t be ended with 10 rounds of buckshot (five in the tube – five in the shell holder), probably wouldn’t end with 13 either…just sayin’.

Standard Stock:
I have a pistol grip for the Mossberg; it’s easy to install, it looks cool, and it’s fun to switch it up every now and then.  And while the pistol grip adds a little extra wiggle room, I personally feel much more comfortable with the standard buttstock, thus it’s a part of my go-to configuration.  Not to mention, without it, I couldn’t use the shell holder.  Again, you’ll just have to try both and see which one works best for you.

Allen Company Buttstock Shotgun Shell Holder Allen Shotgun Black Shell Holder Color: Black Holds 5 Shotgun Shells Elastic Loops Holds Shotshells Securely

The Mako Group Shotgun Barrel Flashlight Mount Features: Universal Barrel Design. Cleaver Removable Insert to fit most barrels. Great for Flashlights and Lasers. Complete with Sling Swivel Stud. Made from tough Glass-Nylon Composite.

Nebo Products 5067 5067 Tactical Series Csi 8 Led F The Nebo CSI Tactical Flashlight is the perfect flashlight! With an anodized aircraft grade aluminum construction; this flashlights design is water-resistant. Adding to the toughness is the aggressive self-defense face and anti roll body design. This flashlight features 8 White LEDs and a red laser…

Wall Mounted Shotgun Safe:

One of the downsides to employing a shotgun for home protection is the perceived lack of storage options.  If you have kids in the house, leaving a long gun unattended in the corner of your bedroom is an invitation for front-page tragedy.  Locking it in a gun safe, particularly one in your basement, or out of immediate arm’s reach, is impractically inaccessible.  Most bedside gun safe solutions cater to handgun storage; I love handguns–I have one locked in an electronic safe next to the bed for backup–but as I’ve been harping, defensive shotgunning is my bread and butter.

You can throw a long gun in a wall safe, but with exception of the V-line closet vault (flirting with $500), accessibility is slowed by keyed entry, not to mention, you have to cut a hole in your wall.  The solution I’ve come up with (actually, TruckVault came up with it) is a fantastic little system called the Shotlock, which I purchased for around $150.

Its features are covered in detail in a review I wrote a couple weeks ago, The Shotlock Shotgun Safe Solution.  The gist is, it’s a simple, rather brilliant steel trap that mounts directly to your drywall, and keeps your shotgun (pump, semi-auto, or over-under) locked up from unauthorized access.  Where the design really shines is its mechanical five-button combo lock, enabling split-second access to your weapon.  I mounted mine behind the bedroom door–it’s out-of-sight during the day while the door is open, and easily within reach after dark, when the door is closed.

The Shotlock is precisely what I’ve been looking for.  Any other shotgunners out there concerned with milking maximum effectiveness from their home defense solution should definitely pick one up for themselves.

Final comments:

I’m going to take a break from expanding my home defense project for now; mainly due to a near-exhausted budget, and carpal tunnel from typing up this report.  While I feel I’ve reached a pretty good resting point, I have full intentions to continuously upgrade my castle defense system, hopefully one day the reaching fire-farting lumberjack status I so long for.

I’ll be sure to keep you posted every step of the way.  Thanks for reading.

Stay Safe!

$49.95

12 Mil Security Window Film 30″ Wide x 1yd. Sold by the yard as one continuous roll.

$45.24

High security window ballistic Film Class 336 (SIZE 5FEET X 10FEET ROLL) with home / office installation kit and instructions – window security film, ballistic film – color clear

$344.95

My backdoor consists almost entirely of a window pane, which means any burglar with a hammer, brick, bat, or leather glove could bust the glass up and unlock the door within a second or two.  In an effort to supplement my current home defense project, I decided to give the door a little extra muscle by installing a sheet of 12 mil burglar deterrent window security film.  I can’t even color within the lines, so I was absolutely dreading putting this stuff on.  That said, I got it done, and though it was a little tricky, it wasn’t nearly as awful as I thought it was going to be.

Here’s what you’ll need:

- utility knife
- razor blade scraper
- plastic squeegee tool (this came with the film)
- 32 oz spray bottle
- dishwasher soap
- measuring tape
- clear silicone (caulk gun optional)
- caulk finishing tool and/or a ton of paper towels

First, make your cleaning solution by filling up your 32 oz spray bottle with water, and adding 6-10 drops of Dawn or another mild dish washing solution.

If the window you’re working on has caulk or another seal around the perimeter, use your razor blade to go around the window and scrape all of it off.  Once you’ve removed the bulk of it, wet the window down with your spray bottle, and scrape off any remaining residue.  If you’re lucky, you’ll have a huge silicone booger when you’re done like I did.

Clean the rest of your window with the cleaning solution.  Clean it like no other window you’ve ever cleaned.  You want to make sure you eliminate every speck of dust, fingerprint, and grit mark, otherwise you’ll have to live with it forever.  The razor scraper is great for gently scraping off the real nasty stuff – just be careful not to scratch the window.

Measure the height and width of your window.  The instructions I used suggested adding 1” on each dimension to give yourself a higher margin for error.  Let’s just say I’m very glad I added the extra inch.

Lay the security film out on the floor and cut it per your measurements using the utility blade (remember to add the extra inch – just in case).  I had my wife help me with this part.  She insisted that I put a piece of cardboard underneath, so I wouldn’t cut up her new carpet.  You might want to do the same if you have a wife who hates it when you destroy her stuff.  You don’t have to cut absolutely straight here (you’ll get a chance to clean it up later), but you want to get it pretty close so you don’t leave yourself short (this stuff is to expensive too screw up).

I highly recommend having another person help you with this next step:  Have your helper hold the piece of film up with the release liner facing you (the release liner is the extremely thin layer that peels off).  With the spray bottle in hand, start peeling the release liner off, while simultaneously spraying the crap out of the sticky side of the security film.  The wetter it is, the more time you’re going to to have to work with it, so hit it hard.  If this stuff sticks to itself, it’s not fun.

Note: If you can’t get the liner to peel off, you can get it started with a piece of Scotch tape.  You can clean off the residue later.

Now, place the wet (soon to be sticky) side of the window security film on the glass.  Don’t worry about the overhang – you can trim it in a minute.  Immediately spray the surface of the film from head to toe.  The wet surface reduces drag from the squeegee.

Using the plastic squeegee, remove the air bubbles and water from behind the film, dragging it out from the center to the sides.  Apply a little bit of pressure to the drag, but don’t press too hard…this is where I screwed up a little – like a meat head, I put way too much pressure on it, and left a bunch of marks and tiny bubbles in a couple places around the perimeter (good thing we’re putting up a curtain).

Once you’ve removed all the air bubbles, take your utility knife and the squeegee, and trim the excess film around the perimeter, using the squeegee as a straight edge.  It makes it very easy if you move your squeegee hand continuously with your knife hand.  The instructions I used say to leave 1/16” around the perimeter for soaking up the water during clean up…this will happen naturally – just cut it – don’t worry about measuring 1/16”.

Take a towel and soak up all the water around the frame to allow the film to properly adhere.

After waiting a couple days, the security film will be finished sticking to your window, and ready to seal with the silicone.  Using a caulking gun, apply a very small bead of silicone (I used clear) around the frame.  Silicone is as nasty as it is fantastic.  If you’ve never used it, take your time, and get used to the gun before you take it to your window…the stuff is like bacon grease.  Once you have a solid bead around the seal, clean it up with the finishing tool, or run a couple paper towels over it.

You’re all done!  Now all you have to do is grab a video camera and a baseball bat, beat the crap out of it, and send me the results.  Never have I wanted so badly to throw a brick at my window before I installed the security window film…you and I now share that same burning desire.

GE 50246 Smart Home Door Stop Alarm

$6.93

Master Lock 265DCCSEN Dual-Function Security Bar

$13.01

As part of my poor man’s home security project, I picked up a few door stoppers to reinforce all the exterior-facing entrances to my house.  My doors are currently outfitted with 95’ tract home locks, and I don’t have the money at the moment to beef them up properly.  The said lack of funds put me in the market for something cheap and easy-to-install, while providing at least a decent extra layer of defense.  I settled on a healthy combination of door stoppers and security bars; considering the entire upgrade cost me less than $50, I think I came out pretty well.  Here’s the skinny:

Alarm Door Stoppers:

Interestingly, the cheapest way to effectively keep a door open is also the cheapest way to keep it closed; door stoppers.  While the standard rubber wedge-style would certainly serve its purpose as an intruder obstacle, it’s only a couple bucks extra for the bells and whistles.  GE’s Smart Home Door Stop Alarms not only help prevent easy entry, but they’ll let you know when someone’s knocking…harder than they should be.

When the pressure-sensitive surface of these little tattle-tails are depressed, they let out an obnoxiously loud 120-decibel scream – guaranteed to scare the freakin’ piss out of your dog…and hopefully the d-bag trying to break into your home.  I bought three of them; one for my front door, one for the back, and one for the garage door leading into the mudroom.

“Installing” them is as simple as sliding a regular stopper under your door, only in this case, you flip the “on” switch as well.  This level of simplicity and portability also makes them a perfect traveling companion for stays in seedy hotels, crack houses, and brothels.  They run on 9-Volt batteries, which as I’ve gathered from reviews, generally last a year, and the little red low-battery indicator light makes them lazy idiot-proof.

The bottom is covered with thick rubber padding for traction.  I’ve tested it out on all surfaces of my house, and while it still puts up a nice fight on carpet, it grips noticeably better to wood and linoleum floors.  Someone with a heavy shoulder who really wants to get in the house will likely realize their goal in under a minute.  However, the 120-decibel alarm, effectively screaming, “bad guy!”, should give me the time I need to piss my pajama pants, and pull my gun off the wall.  I have Simplisafe entry point sensors on all my doors and windows as well, which will trigger their own blaring alarm in 30 seconds (and call the police), but for less than $10, how could I pass up the instantaneous, in-your-face action these little suckers bring?

Short of receiving them DOA, the only way these might not work for you is if you have minimal clearance under your door.  Based on my measurements, your door needs to open about ¼” from the ground.  I have pretty standard doors, and I didn’t have any issue at all, even on top of a door mat.  Nevertheless, you may want to save yourself a potential hassle, and measure before you pick some up.

Door Security Bar:

The man-door entrance to the outside from my garage was also less-than-secure, and unfortunately, a traditional wedge door stopper can’t fill the void; the entrance is elevated a couple inches off the ground.  While I have an entry point alarm sensor on this door as well, I wanted to give it a little something extra.

I applied a nice, cheap layer of additional burglar resistance with a door security bar.  I’ve seen these things in a lot of infomercials, and I’ve always kind of thought they look cheap.  I didn’t really have any doubts in the effectiveness of the aforementioned wedged door stoppers, as I’ve used them before.  Given my circumstances, however, I didn’t really have many options.

The one I settled on is made by Master Lock.  It’s gotten some pretty decent reviews, and for $15, it wouldn’t kill me if it failed…well, it could…but I won’t die broke.  I was actually pretty surprised when I pulled it out of the package; it’s pretty solid.  Its material, twenty gauge steel, is more on par with the Tin Man than the Terminator, however, the construction seems tight and reasonably well put-together.

It’s allegedly rated to withstand 350 lbs of force.  I don’t have a disposable door at the moment, otherwise I’d put it to the test with a few good front thrust kicks.  I did, however, unlock the door, and gave it a couple forceful pushes, barely budging it.  While my pride’s a little shot, I’ll put up with it for the sake of supplementing security.

Installation is as easy as advertised, and the bar can be adjusted to fit any door.  You simply expand it to size, where the base is about 12 inches from the door, and the handle is tucked firmly under the knob (heh…knob), and you’re done.

A burglar who successfully foils this obstacle will also have to get through the aforementioned entrance to the mudroom, but I’d prefer if he just gave up before he made it that far.  The said 350 lbs of reinforcement the Master Lock offers is nice for $15, but for good measure, I decided to also add a  barricade to the door with a wheelbarrow full of rock salt, extension cords, and Christmas lights…if he makes it through, he better clean all that crap up.

While I’m definitely a ways off from fully burglar-proofing my doors, I think I’ve given them a nice upgrade, leaving me a lot more secure than I was a week ago.  I’ll let you know if anyone decides to test the effectiveness of the new door stoppers against my will.

Stay Safe!

First off, you’ll need a manual.  If you lost your copy or bought the unit used, you can find it here:

ShotLock manual

The manual has a nice presentation, and generally speaking, covers the assembly process comprehensively, however, it sort of takes idiots for granted; idiots like myself, who frankly, need more pictures and elaboration.

First off, I wouldn’t recommended following the manual page-by-page.  Though nothing about the installation process is irreversible, you may save yourself 10 minutes and the mutter of an expletive if you follow my lead:

Parts Assessment

Unlock the Safe

Foam Padding and the Ejection Port Block “Hangy” Thing

Change the Combination

Mount the ShotLock to Your Wall

Parts Assessment:

Among the parts that come with the unit, you’ll notice two felt-covered squarish blocks, and one block consisting of multi-layered leather strips, which are held together by two screws.

There are two ways to hang your shotgun within the unit’s enclosure:

- Use the two blocks if you have a semi-auto or over-under shotgun (you’ll need the 4 smaller screws for this).  This method hangs the gun by keeping it in place around the trigger.

- Use the leather-layered block if you have a pump-action shotgun (you’ll need the two small screws which are currently holding the block together).  This method hangs the gun from the shell ejection port.

Use one method or the other – NOT BOTH.

One nice thing about the ShotLock is that they give you plenty of spare parts.  If you decide you want to change your configuration down the road, you should have all that you need to do it – foam padding included (we’ll get to that in a minute).

Unlock the Safe:

Next, you’ll want to unlock the safe – it’s pretty simple – just follow the instructions in the manual.  The default code is:

1, 3, 5, then twist the knob to “unlock”
It’s not included in my revision of the manual, but your default code may also be:

2 + 4 simultaneously, then 3, then twist to “unlock”.

Lock it and unlock it a few times to make sure the action works before changing the combo (we’ll get to that).

Another quick thing I’ll note is that, in my manual it gives instructions to:

Make sure the lock is in the LOCK position so the ShotLock is in the open position to receive the door

I don’t know about your’s, but mine has to be in the “unlock” position to receive the door.  I don’t think there’s anything wrong with my vault – it’s probably just a typo in the manual.

Foam Padding and the Ejection Port Block “Hangy” Thing:

I don’t know why, but this next part confused the heck out of me.  I’m a special brand of idiot, who, unlike most idiots, who think sparingly, I tend to over-think myself into utter confusion…this next step (Page 6 in the manual) is actually very easy.

The gun I’m using is pump-action Mossberg 500.  If you’re assembling the ShotLock for a semi-auto or over-under, the instructions are essentially the same, only you’ll just use the two squarish things around the trigger guard.

Open the vault, and lay it down on its back in the same configuration that you want to ultimately hang it.

Next, decide where you want to install the hanger.  The key is to remember that the ejection port will be facing the bed of the ShotLock (the metal backing with all the holes in it).  Chances are, you’re either going to install the hanger on the upper right or upper left, depending on which way the door is opening.

Once you’ve decided where you want to install the hanger, place the leather-layered black hangy piece (the hanger) vertically on the “Foam Bed Liner Template” (that piece of paper), and match it to up the drawings of the screws, which are a to-scale representation of where they are on the bed of the Shotlock.

With a pencil, simply trace the hanger onto the template.

Match the template up with the foam liner, and using a pair of scissors or a razor knife, cut a hole out along the line where you traced.  It doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect.

Step 5 in the manual says to insert the foam liners…if you plan to mount the ShotLock to your wall, don’t do this yet – you’ll have to take it out again (like I did), and you’ll risk tearing up the foam (like I did).  Just put the foam piece off to the side for now.

Now you can screw the hanger to the bed of the ShotLock.  The manual doesn’t mention it, but you’re to use the screws that are currently holding the piece together.

Pinching the leather layers together tightly (nothing will be holding them together when you take the screws out), remove the two screws.

From the back of the ShotLock, install the hanger to the bed (while still pinching it tightly) by screwing the two holes in the back…just look at the picture…

Before moving to the next section, I’d recommend gently placing your shotgun into the ShotLock and closing it to make sure it fits.

** One thing I noticed with the Mossberg 500 (and I’m assuming other pump-action guns as well) is that, when hanging it loaded from the ejection port, the pump action can’t be fully retracted.  When it’s fully retracted, the shell springs out of the magazine tube, and sits in the receiver, not allowing enough space for the hanger.  This is an easy fix – “pump” the gun just enough (right before it “clicks” into place) so that the ejection port is completely open, but the shell hasn’t popped out of the magazine tube.

Change the Combination

This is surprisingly very easy – just follow the manual.

The only thing I’ll note is that removing the lock cover takes a little bit of work.  It removes straight out – not at an angle.  It’s in there very tightly, so you may have to slowly pry it up around the perimeter with a knife or a flat-head screwdriver.  It’s 14 gauge steel…you won’t hurt it if you take your time.

Mount the ShotLock to Your Wall

This is the final step.  You may need a drill, but it’s about as easy as hanging a heavy picture frame.  I’m not taking responsibility for any damage you do to your wall, but you shouldn’t have to bother finding the studs.  I just followed the mounting chart below (which for some reason, isn’t in the manual), and completed job without any trouble:

Mounting pattern

Once you’ve successfully mounted your ShotLock, you can finally insert that foam padding that you cut up earlier, and proudly display your shotgun on the wall.

That’s about it.  If you have any pictures of your ShotLock (or any other gun storage items for that matter), send them my way and I’ll post them on the site.

Stay Safe!

Your very own efforts in securing your valuables are the exact tools upon which a clever burglar often depends. That may sound a bit ridiculous. In truth, it is fact. Statistics from law enforcement agencies point out time and time again that under-thinking the needs for the security of your personal goods is a common tendency among most home owners. That is not surprising. After all, the advertisement for a particular security provider stated that you would be safe, that they would take good care of your security needs. So, why should you worry? In addition, the answer to that is because the only way to have the upper hand in your security is not to be the consumer or client, but also to take on the responsibility of an actual partner to your own safety. You must know the common blunders and shoulder the responsibility of preventing them.

Making a good decision for the purchase of your safe is just the first step. You have seen it in movies. Even in the face of the most sophisticated systems, the burglar has a plan. In the movies it is often technology that wins out, but the sad truth is that in the real world it is most often simple blunders, missteps or oversights, carried out by the owner, that are the weaknesses in even the best designed safes. Simple, common blunders can make you an unwitting accomplice to your own safecracking.

All it often takes to undo the finest modern lock is just the casual conveyance or mislaying of a pass code. Computer-savvy kids learn to avoid obvious password dangers at an early age. It may seem that the number of permutations for combining 10-14-82 (in the case of a date of birth, for instance) and the letters in the name of one’s firstborn child are limitless. A little bit of experimental deciphering on your own should quickly reveal that such is just not the case. It only takes a few seconds for an astute operative with a good decryption program to punch through a random sweep of combinations and soon the game is over.  If the burglar knows something about you and your family, the code puzzle can be made even more simple. Unfortunately, it is too often exactly that sort of scenario that plays out. Many professional thieves these days rely more upon their ability to assimilate background data on their target than upon their skills as a locksmith. They even manage to leave very little evidence behind.

It may sound absurd, but your own smudges and fingerprints, residual from repeated use, on the face around your tumbler housing can lead a sneak thief to your combination. Even leaving the tumbler of your safe in its final position can give your security away. These are not always apparent to the casual glance, but a smart safecracker is anything but casual. Take a moment to observe your own tendencies. Make notes about the key steps you feel you need to correct in your security routine and refer to them regularly as you refine your outlook. Remember that routines are habits. When it comes to security, habits are generally bad. Unless it will cause major disruptions, it is always good advice to change your habits and your passwords frequently.

Your bottom-line needs will determine your best choice for a modern safe. Most home owners may not need high-end vaults or redundant, multilevel monitoring, but it is important to understand the weaknesses of any safe you are considering. Basic understanding goes a long way. For instance, a remotely operated lock may be vulnerable to operation by an outside signal sources. Or a camera monitor above your safe could provide a birds-eye view for someone to compromise your combination. The list goes on and on. In the end, safecracking is the art of locating weaknesses.

**Lately, lack of time has prevented me from updating the site as often as I’d like, so I hired a couple students to do some research and keep the site from going stale for the time being.