I’ve posted this link to the Liberty Centurion DLX 20 (pictured to the left) at the top of this page, just in case you don’t feel like reading the following 2000 word guide, and coming to your own conclusion .  Of all the cheap guns safes out there, Liberty’s entry model is my favorite, and for under $900 with shipping included (from the site in the link), I can endorse it with a clear conscience.  Now, onto the post…

So, you’re tired of storing your loaded guns unlocked under your bed.  Good.  I’m tired of you doing that too–it’s dangerous and ignorant.  You’re ready to step up your game, and get yourself a gun safe…but, you don’t want to spend any money, right?  Of course not–you’re not ignorant, you’re just cheap…I get it.

I’ll cut to the chase and tell you the features you want to look for, but first, I need to draw a line in the sand.  As far as I’m concerned, a cheap gun safe is a residential security container that falls within the $700 to $1000 price range.  Unless you’re getting a heck of a deal on a used unit, anything less than $700 is almost guaranteed to be a total waste of money.  Anything more than than $1000, and you’re wandering into a different class (which is encouraged, if you have the means).

A thousand bucks isn’t going to buy anything stellar, but find a model that carries the following features, and you’ll be off to a great start:

Lock:

The lock is the most important piece of a gun safe, whether it’s $1000 or $10000.  I strongly recommend a combination lock over its electronic counterpart.  Yes, it takes a little longer to open up, and frankly, it isn’t as cool, but in the long run, maintenance and reliability are going to work in your favor.  Besides, in the said price range, you might not find a safe dawning a half-decent electronic lock anyway.

The are tons of crap locks on the market.  Avoid these by ensuring that the safe you purchase has a combination lock with a UL Group II listing or higher.  I’ll spare the technical details in this post, but the bottom line is, it’s going to work forever with little maintenance.  While popular brands, like Kaba and La Gard, have nice offerings, I’m partial to Sargeant and Greenleaf products–hard to go wrong there.

Body:

When shopping for gun safes, you’ll find that most of your money goes into the steel.  I’m going to recklessly throw out a blanket statement, and say that the thicker the steel, the more costly the safe.  Having said that, when you’re going cheap, you’re going thin.  With your budget, you’re going to be in the market for a model touting 12 to 10 gauge steel (10 is thicker).

That’s not a lot of girth–a seasoned lumberjack with a sharp axe could tear into a 12 gauge safe wall within a few minutes.  Having said that, all is not lost.  First off, while professional attacks on the body of the safe (ie – the walls) aren’t totally unheard of, they aren’t very common.  Careful placement of your safe can stifle many of these attacks, anyway (mount it in a corner, don’t leave sledge hammers in plain sight, etc…).

Secondly, don’t be easily star-struck by the size and number of bolts around the door.  A lot of sub-par manufacturers will throw a dozen or so one-inch shiny bolts on the perimeter to create the illusion that the safe is secure, and “pry-proof”.  Don’t get me wrong, well-placed bolt coverage, coupled with solid linkage can be crucial in securing your contents, but if the rest of the safe is lacking, the bolts might as well be Christmas lights.

Lastly, what you’re missing in thickness and bolt coverage, you can make up in sound construction.  Avoid stitch-welded assembly and chinsy door framing.  You’re not doing yourself any good buying a safe with thick steel walls, assembled with duct tape and bubblegum.  Hyperbole aside, find a unit with solid welding and strong framing, and you’ll be well ahead of the curve.  A unit with gaping seams has weak integrity, and weak integrity invites destruction, whether it be from a house fire or the hands of a thief.

Without a trained eye, it can be difficult to spot quality versus shoddy craftsmanship.  If there’s a product you’re unsure about, ask a local safe dealer, or contact me–I’ll do my best to get you an answer ASAP.

Fire protection:

Most likely, even a cheap gun safe is going to offer some level of protection against fire.  Fire protection gets very tricky in the gun safe industry.  A true “fire safe” will normally carry a UL rating, branding it as a unit that has been harshly tested, and will almost certainly withstand the blaze for the time advertised.  Unfortunately for you, a UL-rated fire safe big enough to house a gun collection is going to be 10-fold out of your price range (and mine).

But don’t feel bad–UL fire-rated gun safes, as far as I know, don’t actually exist, at least through mainstream availability.  If the guy at the gun store tries to tell you that the $800 safe he’s selling is UL rated for fires, it’s b.s.  What’s likely the case is that the unit he’s hocking is a UL-listed RSC that also has an alleged fire rating, or the unit is lined with UL-rated fireboard…regardless, I can assure you it’s not a commercial-grade, UL-rated fire safe.  This, however, doesn’t mean that your gun collection is going to be DOA when the firemen show up.  Most quality cheap gun safes (bit of a paradox there) are going to buy you 30 minutes in a typical house fire.

While the bulk of manufacturers don’t actually test their safes in house fires (a lot of gun safe fire ratings are nothing more than educated guesses), you’re doing yourself an injustice by neglecting to get at least a 30-minute listed rating.  You’re not going to find cast insulation or ceramic wool lining for this price; just make sure it’s seamlessly constructed (as discussed earlier), and has fireboard installed in both the walls and the ceiling.

Warranty:

Believe it or not, you can spend less than $1000 and still get a safe with a lifetime warranty.  In fact, I’d go as far as saying, don’t get a safe if it doesn’t have a lifetime warranty–there are too many others out there that do.

The most important thing to note here is that you must read the fine print.  Legally speaking, “lifetime warranty” can mean a million different things.  Buy a safe from a manufacturer who will not only replace your safe in the event of a fire or burglary, but will cover associated freight and maintenance charges as well.  Here’s a list of safe manufacturer warranties if you want to dig deeper.

Country of origin:

Like so many other goods, China churns out the largest number of imported safes to the United States, and while I’d love to state otherwise, not every single one of them sucks; Big Horn, for instance, is a pretty decent China-born budget brand.

The thing that Chinese manufacturers have going for them is that they put a lot of effort into to copying American design and craftsmanship.  On the other hand, what they don’t have going for them is that they rarely pull it off.  Long-story-short, the quality of the materials is often sub par, and construction is inconsistent.  If you can spend the same amount of money and get a decent American-made safe, why buy an import?  That’s all I’m going to say about it in this post, but if you want more information on import versus domestic, check out this post I made a while back: Are American Gun Safes Really the Best?

Other stuff:

Buying on the cheap doesn’t mean you have to completely abandon security.  In addition to heeding my recommendations above, there are a few little things you can do to ensure you get the most out of your investment.

First of all, anchor your safe down.  If the model you’re looking at doesn’t have pre-drilled holes, I wouldn’t even consider it for purchase.

Do you have to bolt it down if it’s downstairs in the basement?  Yes.  Do you have to bolt it down if it weighs 2000 lbs fully loaded?  Yes.

No matter what the circumstances, take the extra time and anchor it down.

If you aren’t sure the best way to anchor it, or what materials to use, ask the manufacturer.  They’ll be more than happy to help you out here–many of them even offer inexpensive kits to help take out the guess work.

Even a one ton safe isn’t terribly difficult to tip over, and once it’s on its back, the crooks have a perfect opportunity to get the leverage they need to pry it open.  And if they can’t get it open in your house, they can scoot it out the door, load it in a van, and try it on their own time.  Like it or not, some crooks are pretty darn smart.

Which brings me to my next point…

Don’t give them a reason to break into your house in the first place!  Yes, sometimes being a victim of burglary is unavoidable, but there are very easy things you can do to stack the odds in you favor.  For one, don’t talk about what you have to anyone you don’t absolutely trust.  The dude you just met at the range might not break into your house, but he may have a shady friend who’d be glad to do it.  Put your pride to the side, and keep your mouth shut (that’s right–don’t create a website devoted to showing off your toys ).

Also, to the best of your abilities, keep the safe out of sight.  You don’t have to build false walls and hidden rooms (if you were that devoted, you’d be spending more than $1000), but keep it away from windows, and places where the pizza man can see it.  It’s not too difficult–just do your best to avoid advertising that you have a treasure chest in your home.

Lastly, I’d recommend investing a little bit in basic home security.  I had a bit of fun a few months ago building a budget DIY home defense package, which included a monitored security system (I went with Simplisafe, and have been very satisfied with the setup).  If you’re too cheap to go for the real thing, at least fake it.  Get some alarm stickers, put a smoke detector above the safe (hardcore riff-raff use power tools, which can create a lot of heat and smoke), you may even want to consider a dummy camera.  The key is to make stealing your valuables as inconvenient as possible.  I wrote this post a while back, if you want to supplement with a few more ideas: Where to Put Your Safe.

Recommended unit:

The question I probably get asked the most in emails is something to the effect of, “what’s the best safe for under $1000?”.  While I couldn’t wholeheartedly claim any model to be the best cheap gun safe on the market–there are a few decent models out there–I could very comfortably recommend to nearly anyone Liberty Safe’s entry level unit, the Centurion DLX-20 (22 gun capacity).  It’s also made in the good ole’ US (to my knowledge, all of Liberty’s UL RSC listed safes are).

It has an S&G 6147 UL Group II combination lock.  It’s built with nearly seamless construction.  It also includes fireboard all around, giving it a respectable (for the price) 30 minute fire rating (at 1200 degrees Fahrenheit).  It only has bolt coverage on two sides of the door, and with 12 gauge steel, the body is a little thin, but again, 10 gauge is probably going to be the thickest steel you’ll find in this price range; at that point, you’re splitting hairs (literally–the difference is a fraction of an inch).

Liberty has perhaps the best lifetime warranty, and renown customer service record of any of their main competition, and I’d feel comfortable recommending this safe to anyone wanting to lock up their firearms for under a grand.  I helped my father-in-law pick one out, and he still lets me make babies with his daughter…now that’s an endorsement!

Regardless of the cheap safe you decide to roll with, make sure you don’t rush into it.  Ask tons of questions, hold the dealer and the manufacturer accountable when they answer them, and feel free to hit me up if you need any help in the process–if I don’t know the answer, I’ll do my best to get you one.

Stay safe!

Cannon and Liberty; two longstanding, highly regarded American safe manufacturers who’ve both managed to churn out hundreds of thousands of residential security containers over the last several decades.  While both companies have a rather extensive line of security products, two stand out the most in the realm of high capacity gun storage; the Cannon Armory 64 and the Liberty Fatboy.

Capacity:

Americans have the blessed right to, not only own dozens of guns, but to safely secure them as well.  Both of these fat bastards offer interior roominess as a main selling point, allowing that said right to be realized, so we’ll start by evaluating capacity.

Let’s begin with the Liberty Fatboy.  They’re darn near as large as their explosive namesake, and nearly as iconic; you can find a Liberty Fatboy in almost any major shooting supplies store in the country.  With an advertised capacity of 64 long guns, the Fatboy is basically a bloated Liberty Franklin (the Franklin 50 has a said 41 gun capacity).

The Cannon Armory 64 is one of the company’s newer products, and by far their biggest.  Cannon claims that this monster can fit 80 long guns in its lint-free upholstered belly.

As it’s well-known, especially by safe owners, you rarely get the advertised capacity out of your unit unless you either have the world’s largest collection of Ruger 10 22s or you customize with space-saving accessories, like rifle rods.  That said, two things are clear; both of these mammoths can lock up a lot of firearms, but with a rougly 25% larger  interior, there’s no doubt the Armory boasts the most storing potential.

Edge: Armory 64

Body:

Both of these companies employ American manufacturing (with rare exception), and build their products with American steel, which, as I’ve explained in detail in a previous post, puts them in a class above most Chinese and Mexican units on the market.

Both units are constructed with the proverbial uni-body design and continuous welding, giving each a nearly seamless constitution.  It would be a bad idea to store your massively expensive gun collection in a cheaper, stitch-welded, built-to-bust unit, but both of these models meet the basic criteria of a well put-together RSC.

That said, we’ll cut to the chase; the Fatboy’s 11 gauge steel body trumps the Armory’s 12 gauge thickness.  In addition, the Liberty’s door is slightly thicker.  Innuendo aside, it’s not always about thickness, however, both products are built pretty solid and someone needs to win.

Edge: Fatboy

Locking:

UL Group II listed combination locks guard our two contenders’ doors, which is has become a standard among both the companies who manufacture them.  The Fatboy’s active locking bolts are ¼” thicker than the Armory’s (both on three sides of the door), and while integration is more important than thickness, the Cannon might just say “uncle” to a pry bar first.

Of course, locking bolts are only a small piece of the pie.  Both containers are outfitted with adequate drill-killing hard plates, and multiple relockers to further stifle punch and drill attacks.  The Fatboy, however, uses Liberty’s DX-90 Monster Mech locking system.  No, I’m not about to give the edge to Liberty because their mechanism has a cooler name than Cannon’s (it does though)–I just happen to think the DX-90 design is a smoother operator.  It does a more efficient job of allowing the door to stay open and closed when you need it to (more on the Monster Mech).

Edge: Fatboy

Fire Protection:

Both of these companies put ok effort and material into building their products with decent fire protection.  Of course, advertised fire protection in the gun safe world is even more flaky than alleged capacity.  While neither are UL-rated fire safes (I can’t think of any RSCs that are), Cannon employs Intertek ETL, another third party, to do their testing.  This isn’t to say that Liberty’s in-house crew is guessing instead of testing (it definitely happens elsewhere); their BTU rating system is nearly as comprehensive as it is marketable, but Cannon is subject to an outside company’s restrictions, not their own.

Both safes are insulated with thick fireboard, a material that meets the expectations of the price point.  Given that the configuration of materials are nearly identical between these two, you have to consider the natural advantage the Fatboy’s smaller interior dimensions have against overall heat resistance, not to mention its thicker steel walls.  Unfortunately, I’ve never witnessed a Liberty vs Cannon burn test, so I can’t truly attest to the accuracy of the Fatboy’s 1 hour rating, or the Armory’s half hour, but given the circumstances…

Edge: Fatboy

Warranty:

Both safes are backed by some of the best on-paper lifetime warranties in the business.  This post links to the location of both manufacturer’s warranty details (scroll to the bottom), which you can read on your own, but in short, they both cover repair and/or replacement costs (including freight) of the safe at no expense to the original owner.  Of course, be aware that the contents of the safe aren’t covered, proper home insurance policy information is required, and while “manufacturer defects” have lifetime coverage, locks and labor are only covered for a year (based on my interpretation of both warranties).  The aforementioned considered, they’re both still very solid.

As prefaced, everything thus far is my interpretation of what they offer on paper, however, individual experiences may vary.  I follow Michael Bane’s blog from time-to-time, and a couple years ago he posted his general disgust with the way Cannon handled his warranty claim (you can read about it here).  Over the subsequent months, the dust eventually settled, amends were made, and he basically let them off the hook.  This series of events happened over two years ago, and it very well might have been a fluke on Cannon’s part, but it still makes me just a bit weary of giving Cannon’s warranty my undying endorsement (if you’re reading this, Mr. Cannon, my endorsement isn’t worth much anyway).

As far as Liberty’s concerned, try to search for a case where Liberty screwed over a customer and didn’t fix the situation properly.   The few reports I’ve been able to turn up have been a case of the customers not familiarizing themselves with the agreement.  Has Liberty ever screwed up in the customer service department?  Probably–just not on my watch.

Edge: Fatboy

Interior Features:

Both models are lined with upholstery–nothing special, but what else do you need?  Both include LED lighting, which is a must-have.  The Armory touts some cool hi-tech features, like an integrated network jack and USB hub.  It also has an additional internal power outlet over the Fatboy.  These features gives nerds (I’m a nerd, so I can call us that) the opportunity to secure our computers behind a steel enclosure, while still allowing remote network access, and a fully charged battery–just make sure, if you use this feature, you keep the humidity regulated and the heat down.

A nice perk included with the Fatboy is the door accessory panel.  Accessory panels allow you to store pistols, ammo, and shooting supplies on the door, saving additional space for your long guns.  These can retail for over a hundred bucks, so it’s really a nice throw-in.

While I absolutely love the door panel, I have to hand it to Cannon for their “cutting edge” geeky efforts.

Edge: Armory 64

Conslusion:

So which is the better behemoth?  The Armory takes the cake in capacity–no question–and because sheer size is the primary consumer draw to both models, it’s an important factor to consider.  That said, even though Liberty came away with a small margin in my categorical analysis, for my money, better security and service outweighs the inability to store 16 extra guns.

Winner: Fatboy

Liberty Fatboy For Sale

Cannon Armory A64 For Sale

A shotgun is one of the most ferociously effective weapons on the civilian arms market – or any other for that matter.  In fact, during the First World War, the Germans tried to ban them, as our boys were absolutely shredding their forces in the trenches; one allied soldier, Sergeant Fred Lloyd, strapped with a Winchester 1897, killed 30 German soldiers in a single day, freeing an entire village by himself (straight baller).

Now, you may not have 30 Germans attempting to invade your home this evening (they’re a much nicer people nowadays), but the utter dominance of a shotgun is undeniable.  Offering forgiving accuracy to novice shooters and unmatched close-quarters stopping power, there’s arguably no better tool you can use to defend your family against a home invasion.

A shotgun best fits my personal preference for home defense, but up until recently, I’ve struggled to find an affordable way to safely keep one accessible in the bedroom.  The Backup is great for getting armed in a hurry, but with virtually zero security, safety is horribly compromised.  The V-Line Closet Vault’s Simplex lock offers quick accessibility, and its enclosure is ideal for security, but at $550, my wallet has it marked as a luxury item.

After a bit of online research and time spent talking to the fine folks over at TruckVault, I decided to give their ShotLock shotgun safe a shot.  Rhetoric aside, I’m quite pleased with my purchase.

The ShotLock is a compact lock box made of 14 gauge steel, currently hanging a racked-n-ready Mossberg 500c behind my bedroom door.  How can I possibly feel comfortable having a loaded firearm out in the open with kids in the house?  Well, for one, I have a pretty cool wife who has allowed me to sacrifice decor for security (although the mounted tac light makes a decent wall lamp), and secondly, despite the shotgun’s fully exposed configuration, the ShotLock makes casual access practically impossible.  The concept is so simple that it’s hard to imagine no one came out with a similar solution any sooner.

The gun rests securely in a padded enclosure, which clamps down over the receiver and the trigger housing.  Once locked, it can be quickly opened again by punching in a 2-5 mechanical button combination (no power required).  This design offers incredible flexibility; you can wall-mount a gun vertically, as I did, hang it horizontally, or even on its head.  Alternatively, you can opt not to mount it at all, and tuck it under the bed, or throw it in the back of your car (check your local laws first).  And again, I’ll stress its biggest perk; it enables you to keep a shotgun both safely locked up, and extremely accessible.  For an affordable $169 MSRP, it’s a fine package (heh…package).

Of course, regrettably, this fine home defense solution isn’t for everyone…every gun, rather.  TruckVault charged themselves with the lofty task of trying to create a fit for as many shotgun models as possibly possible, and their efforts yielded some pretty tremendous results; there are a slew of pump-action, over-unders, and semi-automatic shotguns that the ShotLock will comfortably secure.  That said, there are quite a few that it won’t.

If your gun has any aftermarket modifications, specifically, side saddle (EDIT – workaround for the side saddles), receiver-mounted lights, rails, most optics (unfortunately, ghost rings included), and a handful of pistol grip configurations, there’s a good chance it’s not going to fit.  While I would love to squeeze my hot-rodded Remington 870 into the ShotLock, as you can see in the picture, there’s just no freakin’ way it’s going to happen.

That said, I knew before I made the order that it wouldn’t fit; ShotLock makes it very evident on their site which guns won’t work, and based on my experience, they’re happy to answer questions over the phone as well.  Another bummer is that most rifles won’t fit either, however, .223 fans might find some comfort in knowing that TruckVault will be releasing a new AR15/M4 capable model later in 2011.

Compatibility is just about the only bone I have to pick with an otherwise fantastic product.  While I’ve only had it a week, I know ShotLock’s unconditional warranty will keep me happy for at least two more years.  As far as I’m concerned, I’ve found the best way to affordably keep my shotgun safe and close by should I encounter any Great War German soldiers, home invaders, or any other buckshot susceptible riffraff.

If you want to read more on how the product works, or you’re stuck at an installation step, check out my guide on ShotLock assembly and installation instructions.

That said, I normally stick to the first option – keeping my pistol on me, holstered and well-within reach.  There are, however, times when I have to park the car, and run into a building that prohibits possession of weapons, even with my CCW permit (ie – schools, government buildings, church, work…), so I’m forced to leave the gun in the car.  It never ceases to make me feel uncomfortable leaving it behind, even in a locked car.  Smash and grabs happen all the time, and there’s always a chance that some punk carjacker might find the tool he needs in the glove compartment to graduate to a stick-up kid.  I don’t really want that on my conscience.

And of course, there’s always that horrible feeling you might get when you’re watching TV on the couch, listening to your kids play in the garage, and your heart stops when you remember that you left your chambered piece sitting in the console.  Like you, I don’t make negligence a habit, but we’ve all heard the horror stories – all it takes is one stupid forgetful moment.

Console Vault

This is why I’m specking out a car safe for my Sequoia – a Console Vault, in particular.  Console Vault is a security storage company that has quite a few relevant product offerings, including wall safes and secure brief cases, but what they do incredibly well is design what are essentially car gun safes to fit over two dozen different vehicle models – everything from Harleys to Hummers.

What they have is a rather simple design, operating, in essence, very similarly to my eVault bedside gun safe.  They build a 12 gauge steel security container that installs directly into your existing vehicle console frame.  Its spring-assisted door can be opened with either a barrel key lock, or combination keyless entry, depending on the model you opt for.

These are extremely practical and easy to install, and I’d almost recommend them to anyone driving a car that will accommodate one – even non-gun owners.  You wouldn’t have to take your radio faceplate in with you to the store, and you could leave your iPad or GPS unit in the car while you run an errand.  Any shiny object that you don’t want a jerkoff-thief to steal can be safely locked away while you’re shopping…errrr…ummm…lifting weights.

Now, I’m sure you’re thinking that regardless of what you choose to lock up, be it a gun or otherwise, a thief who wants to get in badly enough can do so.  I would say with confidence that that is indeed the case, however, we are talking about a car here – a valuable asset that can literally be driven away.  Most car break-ins, not including theft of the car itself, happen very quickly – a thug walking by sees something in the window that he likes, breaks it, grabs it, and you never see it again.  Chances are pretty darn good that he’s not going to tool around, trying to pry the car safe’s locking points open while the alarm is going off.

Smith & Wesson QuickDraw

While the Console Vault is incredibly practical, you may be looking for something a little more stylish…sexier if you will.  The good folks at TruckVault offer a very cool product, branded by Smith & Wesson called the QuickDraw, a vehicle gun safe right out of an action flick (I saw one a lot like it in The Expendables).  With the QuickDraw, your sidearm sits in a fully adjustable holster, encased in 16 gauge steel.  Upon unlocking it through its quick-access key-less entry, its gas-operated lid springs up, and delivers the gun directly into your hands.

It isn’t custom tailored to fit snuggly into your vehicle’s console like the aforementioned Console Vault, and doesn’t offer the extra space for additional valuables, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.  It’s slightly cheaper as a result, and it’s a nice alternative for those who don’t drive a car built for a Console Vault.  Of course, if I haven’t already mentioned it, it’s also really freakin’ cool.

TruckVault

For those of you who need a lot more vehicle storage security – namely you who travel around with your livelihood in the back of your car, TruckVault also offers something special just for you.  Whether you’re a police officer, firefighter, handyman, avid hunter or photographer, you probably have a whole lot of disorganized expensive crap improperly secured between your trunk and the back seat.  If that’s the case, you’re rolling the dice every time you park your car.

Regardless of your vehicle, and the stuff that you need to secure within its walls, TruckVault put a storage solution together for your needs.  Unlike the aforementioned console safes, TruckVault units are constructed from Medium Density Overlay, the material most commonly found making up road signs.  It’s stronger than plastic, lighter than steel, won’t draw moisture, and the manufacturers at TruckVault can work wonders with it.  Their slide out-action compartments will secure everything from long guns to chainsaws – great for any tool of your trade.

Of course, they’re pretty expensive.  You may find a gently-used lightweight sedan model for $750, or a brand new, full-featured SUV rig for $5000, and everything in between.  These car safes carry a heavy price tag, but you need to decide how much your equipment and convenience is worth to you.  If you’re going to be hauling it around with you anyway, you might as well store it properly.

Sturdy, Liberty (edit – with the exception of their Centurion 20), and Fort Knox are just a few gun safe manufacturers who pride themselves in producing 100% American-made products.  Assuming you’re an American, buying a gun safe (or any product for that matter) made in the good ole’ U-S-of-A kind of makes you feel good inside – like you’re serving your country or something.

I get a little extra burst of joy out of supporting American companies myself, but I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t do it exclusively.  Take my history of car ownership for example: I’ve driven my share of fine American automobiles, but I didn’t hesitate to stray from domestication when I found a great deal on a used Toyota Sequoia.  Does that make me a bad American?  Perhaps, but it also makes me a happy driver.

Regardless of the market, buying products made in the USA has some lovely, often intangible perks, but does it always give you the best bang for your buck?  I wanted to know the answer to this question, particularly how it pertains to the gun safe industry, so I sat down [on my couch and talked on the phone] with Terry Pratt, owner of Sturdy Gun Safe Manufacturing to find out.

I specifically sought out Terry for a couple of reasons.  One, his company, Sturdy Safe, has been manufacturing American-made gun safes for over half a century, and Terry himself has been in the game since he was a teenager.

And two, though I’d never talked with him before, he seemed like the most approachable of his peers; since I started Gun Safe Haven over a year ago, I’ve spent a lot of time talking to customers, reading spec sheets and reviews of dozens of different safe manufacturers, and I’ve always gotten exceptional feedback from Sturdy Safe owners – honestly – nothing but praise on their product, prices, and flawless BBB customer service record.  In addition, their website is incredibly informative.  They’re like the Progressive auto insurance of the safe world – they’ll help you find the best deal on a gun safe, even if you don’t buy from them.

Though Terry lent me a solid hour of his time, it only took me a couple minutes to figure out that he’s a genuinely nice guy who has an honest-to-goodness passion for the industry.  While I would have loved to have picked his brain for several more hours, I had an agenda, and I’m sure he had better stuff to do .  That said, he was able to give me the information I needed to determine that American-made gun safes are indeed worth the hype (especially if you’re an American).

What makes a great safe so great? Well, a lot of things really, but one indicator they all have in common is sound structural integrity, and that all starts with a solid steel body.  So, one of my first questions to Terry was how American steel stacks up to the rest of the world in quality.  After all, when it comes to steel production, the United States is far from king of the hill in overall volume – according to the World Steel Association’s 2009 statistics measuring crude steel production, we’re behind Russia, Japan, the European Union, and China.  In fact, China produces nearly 10 times the amount that we do…but is it any good?

According to Terry, “the problem with Chinese steel is that it’s inconsistent.  You can’t rely on the chemistry, especially when using high tensile strength.  The formula has to be right, and they’re just not there yet.”

Chinese and Mexican-produced steel just isn’t reliable for Sturdy Safe’s operation.  With American steel, they’re able to bend it and work with it to match the form of their tried-and-true design.  A lot of foreign steel, particularly that produced in China and Mexico, is unreliable, and often fractures under the strain applied during safe construction.

While China and our friends south of the border produce a significant amount of the steel used to supply American-based gun safe companies, they definitely aren’t the only countries in the security market.  In fact, when it comes to steel, Terry said, “the Japanese have it right on the mark”.

So, if the quality of Japanese steel is so fantastic, why doesn’t Sturdy safe use it to manufacture their products? I’m sure Terry could answer that question 10 different ways, but one of the biggest reasons is that its high price and the added cost of US tariffs on steel imports make it way too expensive.  The quality of American steel is on par with Sturdy’s high standards, keeping the cost significantly lower than the Japanese alternative (this ultimately passes more value on to the customer).

If safe manufacturers like Sturdy can turn a profit by producing their products from American steel, why would anyone want to outsource to Mexico or China? Aren’t they getting nailed with the steel tariffs?  Not exactly – those same tariffs don’t apply to completed products.  Many US gun safe manufacturers save a lot of money creating their products overseas, using cheap foreign steel and labor, and selling the final product back here in the States.

Well-established companies who keep their manufacturing within the country are able to stay competitive because they have certain advantages that most fresh-faced companies don’t.  Sturdy Safe, for instance, has been in the business forever, they own nearly all of their capital (property included), and their storage space and operating revenue are high enough for Terry to load up on inventory while prices are low, and wait to use it when he needs it.  Terry said, “In the old days, you could make a lot of money in manufacturing if you worked hard…nowadays, you’d have to have a hole in your head [to start from scratch]”.  This is why a lot of new companies go outside the border to get the job done…it’s just too dang tough to stick around.

How is foreign manufacturing reflected in the final product? Based on the feedback I received from Mr. Pratt, it reflects rather poorly – at least well below Sturdy’s standard.  It’s not uncommon to find inconsistencies between what the advertisement says, and what the customer actually gets when they buy the product.

When you’re producing a product overseas for the sake of cheap labor, it’s not uncommon to wind up with a cheap product.  Terry has been designing, constructing, testing, and repairing safes and locking mechanisms for decades, and not just Sturdy products – he’s had his hands on all sorts of fun stuff.  He told me a few stories about safes he’s worked on that would make you feel rather…unsafe.

For instance, safes that don’t measure up to their advertised steel thickness, and when it comes to steel on a security container, every fraction of an inch is significant (the price tag included).  A lot of foreign products also lack the innovative design needed to keep up with the burglar-of-today’s constantly evolving break-in techniques.  For instance, he mentioned a safe he was working on that had a 1/4″ steel door, framed with only 16 gauge holding the locking lugs.  While the surface of the door might be able to take a good beating, a thug with a pry bar could rip that sucker right off.  In addition, he’s also been able to spot a lot of exploitable locking systems – the result of poor design and shoddy craftsmanship.

All that considered, Terry will be the first to tell you that there are always exceptions – American manufacturers occasionally share some of the same aforementioned issues, and on the flip side, there are foreign manufacturers who’ve put out quality products.  That said, the general consensus is that the quality of the safe tends to suffer when the work is done beyond US borders.

**On a side note, much to the dismay of my curiosity, Terry withheld the names of the offending manufacturers referenced above…he’s clearly a man of integrity.

The main intent of my phone call was to find out if American gun safes really boast superior quality to their foreign counterparts, and while it turns out they do, something else was also brought to my attention – just how many American jobs are supported in the process.  Obviously, the Sturdy Safe employees see direct benefits, but it goes a whole lot farther than that.

Also effected are the mill workers, the folks in the leveling plant, the outside vendors who manufacture the plating, locking lugs, ceramic wool, insulating blankets, and of course, all the trucking that’s required to tie the whole thing together.  A couple thousand American jobs have a hand in Sturdy Safe’s operation, and the number swells dramatically when you factor in the rest of the US-based gun safe manufacturers.

The United States has one of the largest consumer bases in the world for manufactured goods, but the number of jobs linked to manufacturing has dropped radically in just the last few years.  The soapbox I’m standing on wasn’t built to hold my 260 lbs frame, so I’ll get off, but it’s definitely something to consider (if you’re reading this and you aren’t from the US and/or you just plain hate us, that point might not have the desired effect).

Regardless of how you feel about the last note, I can feel confident when I say that across the board, American made gun safes are definitely worth the hype.

I’d like to thank Terry Pratt, owner of Sturdy Safe Gun Safe Manufacturing once more for volunteering his time and expertise to supply me with the info I needed to write this post.  As always, to anyone reading, I’d love to get your feedback.  Stay safe!

There are several other factors that play a role as well – a few well-placed Bouncing Betties around the safe’s proximity can work wonders for your burglar problem.  That said, one of the greatest facets of safe’s security effectiveness is its thickness…in the safe industry, it’s all about girth.

Of course, we’re talking steel here, not fluff.  There are a ton of manufacturers out there who would love for you to think that their advertised three-inch thick safe walls are made of solid steel.  In most cases, the bulk of that three inches is just concrete filler – in residential models, it’s very rare to find a gun safe with steel walls thicker than a 1/4”, and that includes the majority of premium models.

In most of the cheaper models, you’re looking at a significantly lighter frame.  If the safe has three-inch walls, and it weighs less than an elephant, it’s not solid steel.  If you can break through it with a sharp fire axe…it’s not solid steel.  Steel’s heavy, it’s resilient, and steel is expensive – that’s why the following model that I’m awarding the title, “Thickest Gun Safe”, is such a gem.

American Security (better known as AMSEC) has been in this business for over six decades.  I’m not going to go into details on their company history because you’re probably upset with me as it is for not getting to the point already.  Just know that their massive line of security products – ranging across drop boxes, personal safes, vault doors, wall safes, floor safes, and of course, gun safes are hot sellers as they have a few quality units in their repertoire.

The AMSEC RF6528 (rolls right off the tongue) is our winner today because at 1” of solid plate, this sucker dawns the thickest steel.  Smaller outfits like Graffunder and Brown can build a heavy hitter boasting similar specs for you, and if you travel into the world of bank-grade security, you’ll surely find thicker units, but this is [as far as I’m aware] the thickest mainstream-manufactured unit on the market to be billed as a “gun safe”.

So, you might be asking, “why is a measly inch significant?”.  Here’s one way to look at it:

The RF6528 is advertised as having the capacity to hold 30 long guns.  The Liberty Centurion – a slick little safe I’ve discussed on this site before – resembles the AMSEC very closely in dimensions, allowing 28 long guns to be store within its walls.  The Centurion is built with 12 gauge steel, which is common among less-expensive safes (under $1000), and weighs in just under 550 lbs.  Our AMSEC model tips the weighing station scales at almost 3500 lbs.  That’s over six times heavier – due almost entirely to the thicker material.  While the Centurion definitely isn’t the flagship of Liberty’s fleet, using it as an example really puts into perspective how much of a beast the RF6528 really is.

So, what else does an inch of steel plate get you?  It gets you a TL-30 rating from UL.  To earn this, UL sicked their safe crackers to try to break into this thing, and failed…at least within the 30 minute time frame.  For a consecutive half hour, professionals attacked this thing with everything from sledge hammers to power saws, and didn’t gain access.  UL won’t even listing it as a TL-30 unless it boasts at least an inch of steel.

While the rating only applies to the door (the TL-30×6 rating covers the whole unit), smart placement, as mentioned previously, will make this safe all but impossible for a team of neighborhood scum to get into.  If I had one of these, I’d anchor the sucker down (always a must), and nest it into the cement wall in my basement, only exposing “access” to its extremely resilient door.  Of course, the rest of the unit can also take a solid beating – I’m just a knucklehead who likes to do it the hard way.

So that’s my decision – this AMSEC High Security unit brings the ultimate in gun safe thickness, earning it a spot in Gun Safe Haven’s Best Gun Safe Superlatives.

Best Gun Safe Part 2: Capacity and Coolness

That statement is, at the moment, still true; Homak doesn’t showcase their gun safes on their site.  However, they do indeed manufacture them (well, technically they’re residential security containers, but calling them safes is more convenient…).  Their gun cabinets and pistol boxes are still the company’s claim to fame, but they’ve packed in some more variety with a handful of safes as well.

Homak gun safes can best be pigeonholed into two main categories; those with fire protection, and those without.  Those that lack the fire rating come in the 12 and 16 gun capacity varieties and are easily distinguishable from the others by their baked on hunter green finish.  If you’ve read any of my other articles, you’ve probably gathered that I’m not a big fan of cheap crappy safes.  Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand that not everyone has $4-5K to shell out on a premium security container (I certainly don’t) – I’m just saying that you ought not to invest $600 into something just because it says “safe” on it.

Homak’s green safes don’t crack 175 lbs, they have a cheap electronic lock, and could be ripped wide open by any crook with half an ass full of effort.  If you have one, and you like it, fantastic – sorry to offend you – for me, however, I’m a proponent of either spending a few hundred dollars more on a decently secure unit (like a Winchester or a low-end Sturdy Safe), or spend a few hundred dollars less, and pick up a gun cabinet (like a Stack On, or even a Homak!).  These two safes fall into a bittersweet area that I personally would steer clear of.

As mentioned, they also produce three fire resistant products, offering 16, 24, and 36 gun capacities.  I hate to say it (because I really like Homak’s pistol boxes and most of their cabinets), but these are very short of spectacular.  They’re a bit better than the previously discussed non-fireproof models, as they all offer an ETL endorsed fire rating of 30 minutes at 1400 degrees F, but their other features are overshadowed by other manufactures’ products in the same price range.  For example, let’s run a quick comparison pitting the Homak 36 Gun Fire Safe against the Winchester Western 45.

They’ll both run you in the neighborhood of $1,350.  Though fire ratings tend to be a bit ambiguous, the Winchester is rated 1 hour at 1400 degrees against the Homak’s 30 minutes at the same temperature.  The Winchester is nearly 20% bigger, and offers the ability to store an additional 9 long guns (without the majority of additional shelving – in either unit).  The Winchester Western is made with 12 gauge steel, which ideally is a bit light, however, it’s over 300 lbs more resilient than the Homak.  The Winchester also has seven more locking bolts, and passed UL’s five minute tool attack test – the Homak can’t make the same claim.

Winchester safes pack some pretty decent value, but I’m not saying that they’re the best safe on the market.  What I am saying, however, is that Homak gun safes aren’t worth the asking price.  I’ll continue to be a pretty big fan of their cabinets and handgun boxes, but unless they make some serious changes, you’ll never see me storing my guns in their safes.

I’m nothing but a broke gun nut with a blog, so I don’t exactly have safe manufacturers banging down my door, begging me to test their products.  I’m forced to get my information the old fashioned way…reading a crap ton of message board threads to find out what other safe owners think.  There are a lot of proud folks out there, both praising their safes and the guns inside them, but the sad song I continue to hear no matter where I go is, “I should have bought a bigger gun safe”.

Guns are like tattoos; most dudes who have them aren’t going to stop getting them until they run out of space (within reason, of course).  Don’t fool yourself.  You know darn well that your 9 piece firearms collection is gonna grow to 15 in a couple years – forget the 12 gun safe – go for the 24.  Forget the 36, go for the 51.  Forget the 64, go for the Gibraltar!  Seriously though, friends, you have to think about the future.

Of course, you also need to think about the present.  Most gun manufacturers don’t factor scopes, tactical lights, fore grips, or .50 BMG muzzle breaks into the equation when they advertise their capacity.  That said, if you’re looking to store some well-accessorized cannons, you may want to factor that into consideration during check out time.  That 24 capacity gun safe won’t have any problem holding two dozen barebones Ruger 10/22′s, but you elephant hunters out there may have a different experience.  If you have the money, it never hurts to get a bigger safe; I’m sure you have plenty of other valuables that would be in your best interest to lock up.  Here are a few models that set the bar for capacity.

Liberty Safes: Fat Boy
Capacity: 64

Sturdy Gun Safe: Model 6028-6
Capacity: 75

Pentagon (Sportsman Steel Safes): Double Wide Crown Series
Capacity: 100

Superior Safes: Ironside 95
Capacity: 120

Coolest Gun Safe

If you’re in the market for a new safe, your main priority is likely security (and price), but that’s a good thing; security should almost always be the most important factor.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong buying a big, reliable, drab gray box to sit hidden in your basement with your valuables locked safely inside.  In fact, boring can be a good idea; if the burglar doesn’t notice it, he won’t try to break it open.

All that’s great….boring dependability is just swell, but there’s something in me that craves that sweet taste of novelty flair.  It’s the part of me that would rather read a Bud K catalog than the Wall Street Journal.  It’s the part of me that went into the dealer to buy a neat and simple Ruger Mark III and came out with a GSG-5; it’s the mall ninja part of me that can’t get enough gun safe bells and whistles

Runner up: Browning Mark II Tactical gun safe

The Mark II Browning Tactical is the kind of safe that every mall ninja out there just wants to lock himself inside and get high on that new safe smell (don’t though – you’ll die).  This sucker is dripping with storage efficiency.  The majority of firearms security containers on the market don’t exactly cater to the tactical buff.  Though a little bit of TLC, decent convertible shelving and a few well placed accessories can give just about any safe the resources to adequately house your arsenal, the Mark II is ready to go right out of the box.

It’s named appropriately.  It may be cliche’d to pieces and buzzworded to death, but I honestly can’t think of a better adjective than “tactical” to describe this safe.   If I had to compare it to a gun, it would probably be the DPMS RAPTR; a reliable product that includes a slew of surprisingly useful bells and whistles.  For starters, it just looks bad ass.  The exterior sports a baked on satin black finish, an S&G Type I electronic lock, exterior mounted hangers and the ballsiest chrome handle you ever did see…I wish they made it in a belt buckle.

As sharp as the outside looks, the inside is what makes this beast live up to its moniker.

What tactical characteristic is shared among just about all aptly named firearms on the market?  The Picatinny rail system, of course!  The Browning Mark II is one of the only safes models I can think of that actually has one.  This means any black rifle mods that you want to organize can be effectively stored separately from your piece.  But as cool as it is, the rail system is only scratching the surface.  Its list of accessories is a long one.

From the ground up you have a waterproof, rubberized floor mat to keep your guns’ wear to a minimum.  The inside of the door is loaded with pockets, straps and racks, able to easily hold half a dozen various sized cannons, magazines, and accessories.  The bulk of the interior is jacked freakin’ full of organizational potential – just look at the picture for cryin’ out loud (I admit – the guns shown in this picture have influenced my attraction to this safe)!.  Everything from 1911s to bullpups to Barret M82′s will feel right at home in this bad boy.  And to cap things off, the safe is equipped with lighting and a full length mirror; two extremely underrated features.

The only reason I deemed this unit runner up is because I’m disappointed in its body thickness.  Browning stacked this unit to the 9′s, so why they built it with 11 gauge steel is beyond me.  Eleven gauge thickness is bearable in a less testosterone fueled model, but I have no idea why Browning didn’t bump this guy up to 7 gauge – at least as an option.  Oh well.  It’s still cool as crap (cold crap).

Coolest: Pendleton King Revolution Gun Safe

This thing is freakin’ rad.  Even if it were a total piece of crap, I would still feel comfortable calling it the coolest gun safe I’ve ever seen.  Fortunately, however, it’s not a piece of crap.  It’s actually a pretty well built, secure safe.  The Pendleton King is an innovative security container with a reliable S&G electronic lock, nearly 1300 lbs of steel, and a resiliency rating decent enough to get UL’s RSC blessing – but those are just boring reliability features – they hardly do anything for its mall ninja appeal.

The first thing you’ll notice that’s a bit different about this safe is that it’s cylindrical.  It looks like a phone book that would give Superman a claustrophobic panic attack (yeh, he’s no match for Krypton or tight spaces).  The reason for its unorthodox design becomes very apparent when you open the door.  You’re greeted by as many as 40 long guns and 26 pistols revolving around on 12 volt motor-powered, turret shelving.  The interior is lit up by over 300 LED lights (with an alleged 100,000 hour lifetime rating)…it looks like a tanning bed from Hell.  The floor is constructed from neoprene to help prevent both unnecessary wear and moisture damage to the firearms.  This unit, like all of Pendleton’s revolving safes, also includes a built in dehumidifier.

Don’t write off this safe’s slickness as a gimmick folks, it’s the real deal.

Best Gun Safes Part 1

Best Gun Safes Part 3: Thickest Gun Safe

But enough on what I have to say on the subject.  I asked a UL representative a few questions regarding their RSC rating system, and she was kind enough to give me her expert input.  Here’s what she had to say:

• What do you guys do for testing when a manufacturer brings their safe to you?

An attack test is conducted on the safe by 1 operator, using common hand tools not exceeding 18 in. in length, hammers not exceeding 3 pound head weight, and an electric drill with high speed and carbide tipped bits not exceeding 1/4 in. diameter. The attack is conducted for 5 minutes (clock runs only while the technician is actively attacking the unit), with an attempt to open the door of the safe.

• What determines whether or not they pass?

The safe door must remain closed and locked following the 5 minute attack.

• Are there any “must have” features I should look for that any safe that passes your tests has?

The designs and features of the UL Listed gun safes may vary widely. There are no required features, except that the lock provided must be a UL Listed lock (key lock, combination lock or electronic lock). All safes submitted are tested using the same methods and tools for the same time period.

• Are there different certification levels you offer for safes (residential stuff – not bank vaults..?)

For the residential rating there is only 1 rating (5-minute test).

She was also kind enough to include a list of all the UL RSC rated gun safes on the market.  What a sweetheart!

A jeweler, a banker, or a candlestick maker with a million dollar inventory might need something a little more beefy than a “residential security container”.  However, if you’re a gun owning citizen with a valuable firearms collection, or a case full of your grandma’s jewelry, you’ll want to make sure you’re locked up in a quality RSC.

Here’s a list of UL’s RSC rated safes for your viewing pleasure.  I should note that not all of these are in fact gun safes (as in not specifically for storing firearms).  Many are also listed by model number, which isn’t always a common qualifier on gun safe shops.  Before you make a purchase, double-check, and run the model number by the manufacturer first:

Oh, and I’m required by law to include the this statement in reference to the following list: Reprinted from the Online Certifications Directory with permission from Underwriters Laboratories Inc. Enjoy!

A & A Sheet Metal Products – better known as Securall

Sentinel Series, Models 31XX , 32XX , 33XX , where XX may be any two digits.

Statesman Series, Models 40XX , 41XX , 42XX , 42XXT , 43XX , 44XX , 44XXT , 46XX , 48XX , 49XX , 49XXT , where XX may be any two digits.

American Security Products (AMSEC)

Rifle Safe Series; Model BF

I should note that despite having only one gun safe on the list, AMSEC manufactures some pretty quality products.  Their HS series gun safe, for instance has a TRTL-30 rating, meaning it’s door can survive a 30 minute attack

Baxley Blowpipe

Series S

Browning

Gold series, Models G6326, G6326F, G6428, G6428F.

Medallion series, Models M6221, M6326, M6326F, M6428, M6428F.

Morgan Fort series, Models MF6221, MF6326.

Platinum series, Models P6326, P6326F, P6428, P6428F.

Platinum Plus series, Models PP6326, PP6326F, PP7326, PP7326F, PP7428, PP7428F.

Residential security containers, Models 6215, 6221, 6326, 6428, 7326, 7428 with or without alpha suffix and/or prefix.

Sterling series, Model S6215, S6221, S6326, S6326F.

BUMIL Safe Company check the New York Safe Company

Models BA780, BA870, BA1070, BA1270, BA1570

C&H Welding – better known as Sun Welding Safes

Scout Series, Models S-22, S-34.

Cannon Safe Company

Traditional (T) Series, Dangerous Game (DG) Series, Cannon (C) Series, Serengetti (S) Series, HR Series (HR), American Eagle (AE) Series, Professional Hunter (PH) Series, Executive Vault (EV) Series, Home (H) Series, Patriot (P) Series, Private Label (PL) Series.

Champion Safe Company

500 Series Models 21, 31, 37, 39

1000 Series Models 19, 22, 31, 35, 41, 43

2000 Series Models 17, 23, 35, 45

3000 Series Models 19, 25, 35, 45

4000 Series Models 22, 25, 31, 35, 50

5000 Series Models 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60

6000 Series Models 30, 40, 50, 60

7000 Series Models 35, 45, 55

8000 Series Models 9, 12

Envirotemp – Frontier Safe Company

Series FM, MS, PI, RG, TB, WC, WR

FireKing

Models 12 , 18 , 24 , 30 , 40 , 72 , 1612-1 , 1715-1 , 1715-2 , 2015-2 , 2115-1 , 2115-2 , 2021-1 , 2021-2 , 2100-1 , 2200-1 , 2218-1 , 2515-1 , 2515-2 , 2521-1 , 2521-2 , 3020-12 , 3115-1 , 3115-2 , 3121-1 , 3121-2 , 3624 , 3624-1 , 3915-1 , 3915-2 , 3921-1 , 3921-2 , 4524 , 4524-1 , 5021-1 , 5021-2 , 5428 , 5428-1 , CSC1612 , CSC2218 , CSC3624 , CSC4524 , CSC5428 , F4130 , F5030 , F6034 , M2460 , M3060 , M4060 , M4072 , MP2460 , MP3060 , MP4060 , MP4072

Fort Knox Security Products

Defender Series, Models D4026, D6026, D6031, D6041, D6637, D7241, D7251, D7261.

Executive Series, Models E6031, E6637, E7241 .

Guardian Series, Models G6026, G6031, G6041, G6637, G7241, G7251, G7261.

Maverick Series, Models M4026, M6026, M6031, M6637, M6041, M7241, M7251, M7261.

Protector Series, Models P4026, P6026, P6031, P6041, P6637, P7241, P7251, P7261.

Titan Series, Models T6031, T6041, T6637, T7241, T7251, T7261.

Legend Series , Models L6031, L6041, L6637, L7241, L7251, L7251.

Gardall Safe Corp – they make gun safes, but the gun safes don’t have the RSC rating

Models FB1212-G-C, FB2013-G-C, FB2013KD-G-C, FB2714-G-C, FB2722-G-C, FB3521-G-C and FB5322-G-C

Gardex

Models SP1FB, SP2FB, SP3FB

Godrej 7 Boyce Mfg Co LTD Security Solutions

Models 1212-11, 1414-12, 1616-16, 1814-12, 2414-12, 2416-12, 2416-16, 3016-12, 3016-16, 3020-16, 3620-16, 4016-12, 4016-16, 4820-16, 6020-16, 6026-16.

Granite Security Products – Granite manufacturers all of the Winchester gun safes

Legacy 14, Legacy 22, Legacy 45, Ranger 7, Ranger 19, Ranger 30, Silverado 22, Silverado 45, Supreme 26, Supreme 53, Western 21, Western 34, BPS-S-592620, WT-592820

Hayman Safe Company

MV5-1215, MV5-2016, MV5-2618, MV5-3020, MV5-4120, MV5-6028

Heritage Safe Company – this is quite the list.  Heritage has a lot of RSC rated safes.  If you’re looking for something in particular, I recommend using Ctrl+F

Centennial Series. Models C2430, C2460, C3060, C306020, C3066, C3660, C3666, C4072, C5672; Centennial Deluxe Series, Models CX2430, CX2460, CX3060, CX306020, CX3066, CX3660, CX3666, CX4072, CX5672; Fortress Braun Series, Models FB2460, FB3060, FB3660, FB306020, FB4072; Legacy Valiant Series, Models LV2430, LV2460, LV3060, LV306020, LV3066, LV3660, LV3666, LV4072, LV5672; Legacy Crusader Series, Model LC3060, LC306020; American Series, Models A2460, A3060, A306020, A3660, A4072; Signature Series, Models S2460, S3060, S306020, S3660, S4072; “E” Series, Models E2460, E3060, E306020, E3660, E4072; Enforcer Series, Models Enforcer2460, Enforcer3060, Enforcer306020, Enforcer3660, Enforcer4072.

Tradition Series. Models T2430, T2460, T3060, T306020, T3066, T3660, T3666, T4072, T5672; Tradition Deluxe Series, Models TX2430, TX2460, TX3060, TX306020, TX3060LE, TX3066, TX3660, TX3666, TX4072, TX5672; Fortress Regal Series, Models FR2460, FR3060, FR306020, FR3660, FR4072; Fortress Deluxe Series, Models FRX2460, FRX3060, FRX306020, FRX3660, FRX4072; Smith and Wesson Magnum Series, Models SW3060M, SW306020M, SW3660M, SW3666M, SW4072M; Smith and Wesson Magnum Deluxe Series, Models SW3060MX, SW306020MX, SW3660MX, SW3666MX, SW4072MX; Smith and Wesson Patriot Series, Models SW2430P, SW2460P, SW3060P, SW306020P, SW3660P, SW3666P, SW4072P; Legacy Valiant Deluxe Series, Models LVX2430, LVX2460, LVX3060, LVX306020, LVX3066, LVX3660, LVX3666, LVX4072, LVX5672.

Legacy Series, Models L2460, L3060, L3660, L3666, L4072; Legacy Deluxe Series, Models LX2460, LX3060, LX3660, LX3666, LX4072; Legacy Royal Series, Models LR2460, LR3060, LR3660, LR3666, LR4072; Legacy Royal Deluxe Series, Models LRX2460, LRX3060, LRX3660, LRX3666, LRX4072.

Ultimate Series, Models U3260, U3866, U4272; Legacy Imperial Series, Models LI3260, LI3866, LI4272

Ironman Safe Co

3000, 3000E, 4000, 4200, 4500, 5000S, 5000T, 5200, 5800

John D Brush & Co, DBA Sentry Group – better known as just Sentry

Models EQ5433, GQ5453, GQ5553.

Models GT8423, GT8523, GX8599, GV8526, GTT8523, ET8523, GX1852, GXW2252H, GXW2252H-S, ET8523-T, GSE1425, GSE1415, GPT1852, GPT1855G, GPT2245G, GPT2255G, GPW1842H, GPW1852H, GPW2242H, GPW2252H, GAW2252G, GAW2245H

Liberty Safe and Security Products – this list will likely confuse you if you’re familiar with Liberty products – have no fear, they’ll clear it up on their site, or, I can just make it easy for you – they’re all RSC rated

L-Series, Models L-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; Models LX-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50.

O-Series, Models O-20, -25, -40, -50.

P-Series, Models P-25, -40, -50.

H-Series, Models H-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; HX-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; E-Series, Models E-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50.

J-Series, Models J-14, -23.

R-Series, Models R-4, -8, -12.

D-Series, Models D-13, -15, -17, -20, -23, -25, -27, -31, -35, -40, -45, -48, -50; Models DX-13, -15, -17, -20, -23, -25, -27, -31, -35, -40, -45, -48, -50.

MM-Series, Models Mini Mag.

CL-Series, Models CL-20, -30, -36, -39, Mini Mag JR., Mini Mag Plus, 72 in. Mini Mag Plus.

LW-Series, Models LW-04, -08, -12, -4.75, -7.97, -12.63 .

MG-Series, Models MG-30, -32, -36, -42, -50.

Q-Series, Models Q-17, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50; QX- Series, Models QX -17, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50.

LZ-Series, Models LZ-17, -20, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50, -64 ; LZX Series, Models LZX-17, -20, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50, -64

Porters Pendleton Safes – better known as Pendleton Safes

Knight Series Models 2860, 2872, 3260, 3272

Bishop Series Models 3060, 3260, 3260P, 3072, 3272

King Series Models 3072, 3272

Pro-Steel Security Safes, Div of Provo Steel & Supply Co – better known as ProSteel, they also manufacture safes for Browning

Model X or XX, where X may be any number 5 through 70, with or without any letter prefix, with or without any letter suffix except D.

Model X or XX, where X may be any number 5 through 70, with or without any letter prefix, with any letter suffix, followed by the letter D.

Rhino Metals Inc – they manufacture both Rhino and Big Horn safes

Models 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 21T, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, 30W, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 45, 47, 50, 52, 56, 58, 60, 64, 72, 200, 250, 300, 300T, 350, 600, 800, 900, 1200, 1615, 1617, 1818, 2019, 2117, 2420, 3027, 3030, 3424, 4021, 5312, 5315, 5517, 5521, 5521D, 5523, 5627, 5921, 5925, 5926, 5928, 5929, 5930, 5932, 5935, 5936, 5937, 5938, 5940, 5942, 5943, 6022, 6022D, 6026, 6030, 6032, 6034, 6036, 6039, 6040, 6421, 6440, 7142, 7144, 7236, 7240, 7250. All Models with or without alpha prefix and/or suffix

Seguridad Y Manutencion S A – SEYMA Safes

G Series Models GA-44D, GA-60D, GB-76D, GC-100D, GC-126D, GC-150D

Shanghai Baolei Industrial Co LTD

Models J1713, J1717, J2117, J2417, J3417, J4517, J4820, J5620

Stack-On Products (Stack On)

Models HGS-1024, -1024E, -1036, -1036E

Sun Safes -  Also known as Eagle Safes

SB-01C, SB-02C, SB-02D, SB-03C, SB-04C, SB-05C and SB-06C

Surimax Cia LTDA

BF-10, -50 , -100, -150, -200, -300, -500, SP-5, -10, -100, GN-100, -200, -300, -400, -500, -600.

You’re right if you said it’s a lockable security container where you keep your guns. However, you’re also right if you said that it’s the product of masterful steel craftsmanship, coupled with painstakingly detailed engineering designed to protect not only your firearms, but your jewelry, family heirlooms, and precious photo albums from nature’s elemental terrors, professional riffraff, and curious kids. Then again, I suppose the second answer isn’t universally accurate. There are certainly those safes which stand head and hinges above the rest. The following list comprises the latter; those that live up to their value, and keep your valuables unharmed.

This list is something I’ve thrown together from personal research, observation, and my own unique enthusiasm for firearms storage solutions. Though my supporting information is accurate, many of the superlatives listed stem from my own “educated” opinion and shouldn’t be interpreted as the final word (I’m open to feedback). I should also note that this list is primarily comprised of RSCs (Residential Security Containers), essentially meaning they can survive a five minute beating from a safe cracker armed with common hand tools, a three pound hammer and a high-speed carbide drill…but more on that later.

What I’m getting at is that the majority of these units, though each uniquely impressive, aren’t, in the technicalist of technicalities, 1/2″ plate steel clad “safes”. Then again, the majority of you reading this have neither the dough or the need to purchase a full-blown TXTL-60 rated safe (tested to take a full hour of continuous abuse with basically everything from a welding torch to a short stick of dynamite). Calling an RSC a safe is kinda like calling a magazine a clip – it pisses off the professionals, but it’s good enough for you and me. Now, on with the gun safe list

Biggest Gun Safe

I wanted to get this unit out of the way early to keep things fair for the rest of our nominees.  Technically, in addition to awarding it for its massive size, this safe should also take home the prize for highest capacity, and arguably best case study, as it can easily hold 300 firearms, and is the world famous safe used on the game show ‘The Price is Right’…but we’re going to take it one step at a time.  This monster created by the folks at the Sportsman Steel Safe Company is appropriately named ‘The Gibrlatar’.

They’ll build this sucker in any size, weight, shape, or color your heart desires, but for most of you maniacs, the base model, priced at $9995, will be plenty.  Most gun safe dimensions are advertised in inches – at 168 cubic feet (2016″), the Gibraltar warrants a bit more respect.  And make no mistake about it, this beast is more than a dumb weight novelty box – Sportsman Steel has an innovative, quality reputation, and they don’t exactly pull any punches with their flagship.  It’s rigged with six relockers, a 1″ thick drill-killing hardplate, 20 solid steel bolts around the door frame, 1/4″ plate steel body, a two-hour -ested, peace of mind fire rating.  All these features illustrate quite obviously why no one has ever successfully broken into one (that, and as part of the warranty, Bob Barker will come out of retirement to personally pummel anyone stupid enough to try – the price is wrong!).

Most Expensive Safe

Ok, I realize I said that I wasn’t going to include custom over-the-top models in this list, but…I kind of lied.  I just want to help put into perspective how ridiculous, and disgustingly deep some rich folks’ pockets are.  Many consumers, myself well-included, have gone into severe sticker shock shopping for premium gun safes like Brown, Liberty, Gaffunder, Browning, and Fort Knox, many of which can easily creep up into the $5-10K range.  Well, imagine seeing a $340,000 price tag – your brain would probably blow clean out your face – I know mine did.  The cause of this brain-sized hole in my face is none other than the icon of luxury, Karl Lagerfeld, who worked with German safe manufacturer, Döttling, to produce what is essentially the most expensive piece of security-conscious art work in existence; the Narcissus.

I wasn’t just being cute, it truly is a piece of art, able to blend into the setting of any room…literally.  This 72″ tall, one ton safe is covered from head to toe with mirror-finish steel plated aluminum, and chock full of handcrafted mechanically operated drawers for the Jones’ diverse Casio collection.  And while it’s not exactly labeled as a gun safe – per se – I’m sure old Karl wouldn’t mind if you threw a couple bowling pin plinkers in there for safe keeping.  Only 30 were made, so if you can’t afford them, you better get crackin’.  Let’s just hope that for Lagerfeld’s sake, he was smart enough to throw some chrome plated anchor bolts into the package.

Best Locking System

The lock system can either make or break the value of a gun safe.  You may have an 800 lbs solid unit with a 30 minute fire rating, but all that’s utterly useless if it takes a knuckle head with a drill two minutes to compromise the lock.  If you want to maintain the peace of mind that inspired you to make the purchase in the first place, don’t skimp on the safe lock.

Most safes dubbed with the ‘premium’ monicker – models typically price in the $3-6K range – are crafted by manufacturers who understand the value of a tight security seal.  In fact, they’re essentially required to if they want to pass their big UL (Underwriter Labs) exam. Almost any home safe worth its salt receives an RSC (Residential Security Containers) rating from UL, part of which requires UL’s pro crackers to fail at attempting a break-in after attacking the lock with a high speed carbide drill for five straight minutes.  All of the big boys in the industry have their marks including the Fort Knox Legend (which by the way has the most locking blots of any mainstream RSC at 28), Browning Platinum, Cannon Safari, and the American Security HS series, but the locking mechanism that got my attention is Liberty’s new Monster Mech GX-480.

It sounds like the name of that security bot in Robocop who bugged out and blew that dude’s intestines up into his face when he thought he had a gun.  In fact, I think the Monster Mech is related to Robocop‘s ED209 (yeh, I had to look up its name).  The GX-480 isn’t a safe itself, but a newly designed locking system engineered by the ever-innovative folks at Liberty as a premium option for their two premiumest (word!) safes; the Presidential and the National Security Magnum.  What they’ve done is taken all of the features that make a locking system great, and jacked them up a notch.  It operates on a 480 degree rotation gear drive, controlling all of the safe’s 26 1.5″ thick bolts with it’s patent-pending anti punch engineering.  In addition to punching and drilling, one common method of busting into a safe is over-torquing the system – practically impossible with the Monster Mech’s slip clutch handle.

Back in December, a group of burglars armed with a hammer drill, a pick axe, a punch, hatchet, pry bars, crow bars, and everything else short of a thermic lance tried to break into Tyler Texas’ new Presidential, which was equipped with the GX-480. They worked it for five hours before they quit without even coming close.  A testament to not only the Monster Mech, but Liberty’s Presidential craftsmanship as well.  If this sucker isn’t the best RSC locking mechanism on the market right now, please tell me what is…honestly, I’d love to know what you think!

Best Safe Lock

While industry leaders like Kaba Mas certainly craft fine reliable products, S&G (Sargent and Greenleaf) easily ranks at the top, proven through both market success and elite design.  They have available a full host of different locks manufactured to dawn the finest residential security containers, vault doors, and commercial safes in the biz.  Though their entire line is solid at its worst (all UL-rated), I’d like to discuss the two models that I feel actually deserve the title, ‘best lock’.

While I certainly have a distinct appreciation for the convenience and flexibility of the high tech and new-fangled (which you’ll see in a moment), when it comes to safe locks, I’m partial to the old school flavor; rotary dial operated mechanical locks.  I say old school because combination style mechanical locks have been used in full swing since the 1870′s, many of which are still going strong today.  You may not be able to access your safe with the speed and convenience of a keypad or fingerprint reader, but the only thing that these suckers need to run forever is a locksmith checkup every half decade or so.  S&G, though focusing much of their efforts on manufacturing and distributing their line of electronic locks, offer a slew of the mechanical variety as well.

Though you’re likely to find the S&G 6xxx series locks (UL Group II) on most high-end residential gun safes (Fort Knox, Browning, and Liberty to name a few), their most resilient, expertly designed model is their 8500 – one of the finest UL Group 1R locks on the market – period.  Such a federally approved rating requires testing the lock against a severe physical beating coupled with hours of expert manipulation  – in the case of the 8500, hundreds of pounds of force resistance and 20 hours against expert cracking attempts justify its coveted mark of approval.  In addition, the “R” portion of the UL nomenclature indicates that the lock’s acetal resin wheels give it the ability to withstand break-in attempts aided with X-ray imaging.  This is the real deal, son!  If you think that the S&G 8500 lock may be a little overkill for your humble needs, and you want to stick with the manufacturer’s default model – no worries – S&G’s ‘Magic Module’ guarantees that the footprint is virtually the same as their other models, allowing you to swap it out seamlessly if you’re looking for an upgrade down the road.

Say you’re like most American gun safe owners, and you tend choose speed, convenience, and modularity over longevity and hassle-free maintenance.  If this sounds like you, you’re likely suited for a more high tech solution for opening your safe.  Mechanical dial-operated locks indeed require the least maintenance relative to their electronic cousins.  However, electronic locks have come a very long way since their early inception to the security industry, particularly those with UL Type I marks.  In addition to having the bare minimum of one million different lock combinations, as well as a relocking system in place (a safe guard against the common punch attack), an electronic lock with a UL Type I rating must also be able to withstand the stress of common wear and tear associated with inevitable aging, moisture resistance, excessive vibration, and corrosion.

The S&G Z03 encompasses all of the aforementioned benefits of a Type I rated lock, and then some.  Basic access to the lock is governed by a 10 digit keypad, but the technology wrapped up into the model pushes its capabilities much further.  For those fans of ‘overkill’ levels of home security, or more practically, suitable protection in an office or retail environment, the Z03 allows for supreme user control and flexibility.  In addition to the master and supervisor code, up to five different user codes can be used to open the safe.  Along with both time delay and time lock features, as well as dual control options, the possibilities for redundant point of access security are limitless.

For ultimate protection, you can hook the Z03 into your security system, syncing it with your motion sensors and security cameras.  If things get really hot, S&G’s ‘duress mode’ allows you to punch in a code that will simultaneously alert the police as it opens the safe…tell that jackass with the ski mask to make sure he gets everything in the back.  To further the unit’s flexibility, as in the case of the 8500, nearly all of S&G’s electronic models are part of the same basic footprint, allowing you to upgrade to the Z03, or downgrade (I use that term loosely) to a mechanical system.  If you really want to take it to the next level, the Z03 can be equipped with the S&G biometric keypad ring, allowing you both the power of the core system, coupled with the speed, security, and potential redundancy of adding a fingerprint scanner.  Satisfy your fastidious need for extreme security, and program your lock to accept only users with both the entry code, and the fingerprints.  You can go nuts with this baby, baby!

Best Gun Safes Part 2: Capacity and Coolness