“I’m on Fort Knox’s site, using their “Safe Builder” application, and every other page asks me if I want to add some extra sundry item to my cart.  I’m about to spend a used car’s worth of money on one of their products…if it’s so freakin’ important, why can’t they just throw it in?”

These may be a couple of thoughts that have danced around in your head while safe shopping – they’re perfectly rational.  See, gun safes indeed have a lot in common with cars (to the guy who had that thought):

They’re freakin’ heavy, each manufacturer offers three different packages of essentially the same product, and any “good” dealer will always try to upsell you.  But secondly, there are a slew of products on the market after you make your purchase that you can add to pimp things out a bit; some functionally beneficial, and some…just obnoxious.

Fortunately, most of the following safe accessories fall into the first category; depending on your needs, you may find some of these items extremely useful – perhaps necessary.  As always, if you’re reading this and agree with me, disagree, hate me, or feel I left something out, please leave a comment on the bottom…love to get your feedback!

Gun Storage Accessories:

Rifle Rods: I’ve ordered a ton of infomercial crap over the years, and every once in a while I’ll stumble on a diamond in the rough; a product that, not only doesn’t suck major nards, but also lives up to its outlandish claims.  Rifle rods, produced by Gun Storage Solutions are one of these products.

They’re great for a number of reasons, on which I’m happy to elaborate:

First off, they claim to increase your gun safe storage capacity by 50-100%.  If you’re willing to remove some of your safe’s convertible shelving to allow them to work their magic, this claim is absolutely true.  They’re positioned completely vertically and can be placed anywhere, giving you extremely flexible options.

Most safe gun rests are fixed in place, and force you to seat the firearm at an angle; not only does this configuration leave you with few placement options, but gun owners with optic attachments and tactical modifications find themselves burning up a lot of extra space…that 20 gun capacity can turn into an 9 in a hurry.  With rifle rods, you have a lot more breathing room.

They also cause less wear on the guns over time.  Standard safe racks can keep firearms resting in the same position for years, causing noticeable mars on the barrel.  Although rifle rods may initially appear to be invasive, they’re perfectly harmless; they have a durable rubber coating that won’t tear up your rifling, and your piece won’t suffer any exterior wear.

Another excellent, rather underrated feature they offer is the ability to turn any closet into an organized gun storage container.  A while back I wrote a post on converting an old high school locker into a gun cabinet…these would be ideal for the job.  Just cut the Velcro loop-backing to fit, mount it to the top shelf, and you’re in business.

Lastly, and perhaps even more underrated, is the potential that they offer in home defense planning.  Although they’re marketed as a “gun safe” accessory, there’s no reason you can’t employ them throughout the rest of your home.  You can easily keep a loaded 870 in the corner, behind furniture, or any accessible narrow space.  Of course, as in the case of “The Back Up”, you should dismiss this option if your kids are still at home.

Again, in my amateur opinion, rifle rods are worth the hype.  They’ll save you from having to purchase a second safe for just a little while longer.

Door Mounted Pistol Systems: Some of the higher brow, more luxurious security containers, like the Browning Platinum, come “pre-pimped” with luxury interiors (remember the car package analogy?) – chock full of door mounted accessories to boot.  Well, not all of us are fortunate enough to afford one of these, so we have to improvise.  Fortunately, there are some gun safe accessories that can help us out.  The two most popular door-mounted pistol systems are the following:

Hanging organizer – I don’t know the technical name for this, but they look the bag you use to protect your suit while you travel (I don’t know the name for that either – I don’t have a suit ).  Essentially, it’s a large, lightweight organizational system that hangs over your safe door.  The advantage here is that they’re extremely versatile.  You aren’t limited to stowing handguns; you can fit anything that will slide into the pockets and pouches – perfect if you can’t find room for your ear protection, ammo, or your Cold Steel machete collection .

Velcro Mounted Pistol Holsters – You can’t really get any simpler than these.  Nearly 90% of gun safes that I’ve observed have an interior door panel covered in material perfect for mounting Velcro.  Just slap the Velcro backed holster anywhere on the door, and slide your pistol inside (that’s what she said).  These are great if you’re only concerned with space for your handguns, but they have two potential downsides; you might be hard pressed to find big bore gun holsters of this type (for your dual Desert Eagle carrying mall ninjas out there), and you’re out of luck if you’re looking for a place to store anything other than handguns.  If neither of those sound like a problem, go for it.

Handgun Racks and Hangers: Also popular are standalone handgun racks which are generally designed to either rest on your shelf, or hang on the top of the safe door.  Both styles are effective ways of organizing your pistols – it just depends on your current configuration.

Handgun hangers are another popular product made by Gun Storage Solutions, the folks who brought us rifle rods.  They essentially work the same way as their big brother, only instead of sitting upright, they clip to the bottom of your shelving.  As in the case of rifle rods, they’re totally harmless to gun, and they’re perfect for increasing accessibility, both within as well as outside the gun safe.

Miscellaneous Storage Accessories:

Jewelry Boxes: As I’ve preached before, gun safes aren’t just for gun owners; a well-built, steel storage container, particularly one with fire resistance, is a fantastic solution for storing anything valuable, jewelry included.  Jewelry boxes are a popular accessory for this very reason.  Their primary function is organizational – they don’t really have any security perks.  They’re simply a convenient place to keep your jewelry in one secure location.  They come in a fairly wide variety; some manufacturers will build form-fit jewelry drawers into the safe for an extra cost (as in the case of Ft. Knox, Liberty, and Browning), but the majority are of simple design, easily removed when needed.

Document and Media Fire Safes: Contrary to popular assumption, it’s really not a good idea to keep your paper documents and computer media (disks, CDs, tapes…) sitting loosely in your safe, regardless of whether or not it’s fire resistant.  The conditions aren’t ideal for long term storage, as they can potentially shorten the lifespan of these often irreplaceable valuables.

If you plan on storing financial records, data media, or even photo albums (especially photo albums) in your safe, including a compact fire safe can be an excellent addition.  You’ll help extend the life of your sensitive valuables, and you’ll have an extra layer of fire protection, as most of the less expensive models will give you at least an extra 30-60 minutes.

I’d recommend a simple keyed entry Sentry or Honeywell safe.  They’re relatively inexpensive and very effective for our intents and purposes.  Just make sure that the model you choose is specifically rated for storing the media that you plan to lock up.

Corrosion and Wear Prevention:

Dehumidifiers: Your guns may be safe from fire and burglars within those steel walls, but unless you take preventative action, they may be subject to rust.  Metal’s worst long term enemy is condensation – in turn, rust.  Condensation tends to occur when warm temperatures meet lack of airflow, particularly in an already humid region of the globe (or in the house).  Luckily, the solution is rather simple, and relatively inexpensive; dehumidifiers.  There are two popular breeds of dehumidifiers, each effective in its own right.

Electrically powered dehumidifiers operate by drying out and heating up the air in the safe.  Warm, dry air circulation prevents condensation buildup, therefore aiding in rust prevention.  As effective as they are, they obviously require an electrical source, so be sure to only use them if your safe includes manufacturer pre-drilled holes for such purposes.  If they don’t, consult the manufacturer before  drilling your own.

Also an effective solution are those dehumidifiers that don’t require electricity.  The compact, powerless Eva-Dry EDV300, for instance, sits in your safe and sucks up moisture for up to 10 years (5 year manufacturer’s warranty).  It uses crystallized silica to absorb water – up to six ounces at a time – which it self-regulates, and evaporates in 10 hours after it’s full.  Units like the Eva-Dry are ideal for those with safes that lack holes for running power.  Even if you have the required hardware configuration, this is an install-and-forget method that has proven itself to be very effective.

On a side note, silica gel packets are also great for storage in pistol and jewelry drawers to further isolate corrosion prevention.

Temperature and Humidity Sensor: While you can generally trust your dehumidifier to do its job, it never hurts to double-check.  Installing a humidity sensor will allow you to maintain a level of moisture ideal for preserving your firearms collection.  A level of 45% (give or take a few) is what you should shoot for.  Too high, and you’ll find rust on your weapons.  Too low and wooden stocks will start to show their age.  For around $25, it’s a worthy investment.

Rust Inhibitors: Place a Browning ZeRust or a BullFrog Rust Blocker in your safe for a little extra corrosion protection.  They release VCIs (Volatile Corrosion Inhibitors) into the air in your safe, creating an extra layer of protection on your firearms.  I’ve heard a couple folks call these gimmicky, but I’ve never had any problems with rust on my guns (I have the Bull Frog Rust Blocker Shield)…just sayin’.

Vision:

Lighting: Having lights in your gun safe is one of those things in life that you don’t know you were missing until you have them.  If you’re like me, you have a natural gift for stuffing tons of stuff into a disorganized, compact location.  Sure, you sift around long enough, say “I know it’s freakin’ in here” a few times, and you’ll eventually find it, but when you can actually see where you’re looking…wow, what a surprise!

If you’re fortunate to have a safe with manufacturer installed lighting, great – enjoy it, if you don’t, I’ll make a suggestion; motion activated stick on lights.

They may not look or sound glamorous, but they work like a charm.  The simple battery powered LED bulbs are bright enough that a couple well placed units will light up your whole safe upon opening.  And due to the motion sensor, they’re only on when you open the safe – like the little gnome that turns your refrigerator light on and off.  Due to the infrequent power draw, they’re incredibly low maintenance – I’ve had mine for a couple of years, and have only had to change out the batteries once.

Mirror: While certainly not a necessity, mirrors can add to your safe on both functional and aesthetic levels.  As illustrated during my interior lighting pitch, safes get cramped in a hurry, and stuff in the back can be a pain to find.  A mirror not only give you an extra set of eyes, but adds some nice depth to your safe as well.  If you do decide to make this reflective addition, I highly recommend a lightweight, easily mountable acrylic mirror for shatter resistance.

Security:

I’ve heard the argument that a huge box full of guns is a burglary deterrent in itself…rubbish – when you’re not at home, a gun safe might as well be a trunk full of money (sometimes it is).  A well-constructed security container, particularly one with a UL listing, will obviously feature robust security features.  That said, it never hurts to take it an extra mile.

Auto-Dialer Alarm: In more elaborate units, particularly those protected by high end locks (like the S&G Z03) will include security alarm system fully integrated into the safe.  I don’t know about you, but I’m not that freakin’ cool.  A poor man’s solution to alerting the cops when someone is breaking into my safe is a motion detector alarm system with an auto dialer built in.

Mount the alarm inside or outside the safe (I recommend inside, so you don’t have to disarm it every time you walk by), set the code, record a message like, “My name is Jack Burton, and there is a douche bag in my house, robbing me of everything I own…help please”, plug it into the phone line, and there you go.  Again, just remember to disarm it every time you open your safe, unless you want your local police department to hate you (on most units, you can program it to call your phone instead of the police directly – I just prefer cutting out the middle man).  

Security and High Voltage Signs: Are you too cheap to pay for a home security service?  Do you compensate by staking a sign in front of your house that says do?  If you answered yes, this next gun safe accessory is just for you.

Slap a security system or “danger – high voltage” sticker on the front of your safe, and regardless of whether or not you actually booby-trapped the sucker to fry intruders, you’ll probably have that jerk second guessing himself at least once or twice.

Dummy Cameras: For less than $10, you can purchase a fake security camera, and mount it in plain site next to your safe.  Obviously, a real security camera can be mounted as well, but again, I’m not that cool.  Combine this with the security sign on your safe door, and you might just bluff that burglar right off your property.

Seriously though, darn near anyone who’s made a purchase online, yourself likely included, has thrown a little change in Amazon’s swollen pockets.  There’s no shame in that though; they have extremely low prices, quick checkouts, decent customer service (considering their massive size) and with hundreds of millions of products in their inventory, there’s always something to drop a dime on.

In regards to their selection, Amazon’s gun safe inventory isn’t too bad – not as robust as Gunsafes.com – but they still have a lot to offer at Amazon’s everyday low prices (yeh – I know that’s WalMart’s thing, but it works here too). Anyway, despite their advanced navigation system, sometimes it’s difficult to really find what you’re looking for on Amazon, particularly in the case of something as potentially arbitrary as a gun safe description.  With this in mind, I’ve gone out and picked what I think are the best cheap gun safes the behemoth site has to offer.  Take a gander, and as always, let me know if ya have any questions or comments.

Prices may be subject to change

Handgun Safes Under $100

Handgun safes come in a whole gang of flavors; big, small, thick, thin, biometric, electronic, keyed…whatever the case may be, if you’re even half serious about adequate home defense, and you own a pistol, you darn well better have a pistol box to store it in.  They effectively keep out unauthorized access, most importantly from your kids, while still giving you the ability to get to your sidearm in a hurry.  For less than $100, you really can’t go wrong.

Best Biometric Gun Safes Under $200

Yeh, biometric gun safes are getting cheaper everyday, but make no mistake about it; you can still pay out the butt for one.  The following three fingerprint safes will give you the quick access necessary to effectively store your handgun, while not killing your budget.  One special note: to all you Python wielding maniacs out there, make sure the safe you purchase will fit your big bore pistol ahead of time.

Gun Cabinets Under $300

While I’m a huge proponent of investing in a full-fledged gun safe, when it all boils down, safety is my highest concern.  Gun cabinets fill the gap nicely for those folks who have a modest collection of long rifles that they want to keep locked out of the open, but don’t want to spend a small fortune in the process.  As implied, a metal gun cabinet isn’t going to keep out a fire or a determined burglar for terribly long, but you can rest assured your rifles, shotguns, and shooting supplies will be well-organized and out of your kids hands behind closed doors.

Gun Safes Around $500

When you upgrade to an actual “gun safe”, you’re graduating from simply keeping your children out of your firearms (which is obviously first priority); you’re now entering the realm of burglar, and in some cases, fire protection that you can sink your teeth in.  For a couple hundred dollars more, the following security containers will offer you a level of security well about that of an ordinary metal gun cabinet.  Though a pro with the right tools may eventually find his way in, you’re gonna give those neighborhood thugs a run for their money…or rather a run from your money.

Quality Gun Safes Less Than $1000

A thousand dollars is about the point where you’re starting to get serious about protecting your firearms.  Sure, gun safes can get much more expensive, and offer significantly more protection, however, anyone of the following models is going to give you a solid peace of mind for years to come.  And in the case of the following units, you’ll even squeeze a lifetime warranty out of it.  Take that to the bank and sleep easy!

I’ve spent the last few months filling this site primarily with gun safe information (some of it’s actually kinda useful), but I’ve given very little mention to gun cabinets, and far less notice to the wooden variety.  My main reason for neglecting these beautiful timber bred creations is that I know very little about them.  Considering my total lack of knowledge on the subject, I naturally decided that I needed to create a buyer’s guide…but I needed to get my facts straight first.

Back in November, among my earliest posts, I wrote a quick rant on the topic of wooden gun cabinets and made brief mention to a fella named Tom, and his custom gun cabinet shop, Handmade Traditions.  After taking another look at his online gallery, I new that he’d be the man to help fill me in on the information I needed.

About a week ago, I contacted Tom for the first time, told him my intentions, and sent him a list of gun cabinet related questions.  Almost immediately he replied.  He told me he’d be glad to help…and help he did.  His answers were so thorough and well put-together that I decided to skip the guide (perhaps for a later time), and just let Tom do the talking.  Thus this custom gun cabinet FAQ was born.  If this dude is so willing to help a creepy gun safe blogger he’s never met, I can’t imagine how well he must treat his paying customers.  Check out what he had to say:

What are the greatest factors affecting the overall price/value of a custom gun cabinet?

There are several factors to weigh in when considering the cost of a custom gun cabinet.

Type of material used. Craftsmanship built into the cabinet. The overall capacity of the gun cabinet. The amount of additional custom work the client may select.

The cabinets I design and make at my business, Handcrafted Traditions, are made with the best furniture grade lumber and materials that I am able to obtain for my clients. The cost of the wood used is a big factor in pricing. Handcrafted Traditions gun cabinets are made by hand including all the trim. The cabinets include backs that are recessed into the cabinet, miter corners, solid raised panel doors with stile and rail joinery, concealed hinges, and the cabinets are complete with your choice of stain and finish, locks on all doors, glass, lights and hardware.

Capacity of the gun cabinet is another factor to consider. Many clients opt to have bigger capacity cabinet. I currently have models from 10 gun capacity to 20 gun capacity. Many clients choose to order a bigger cabinet thinking that in the future they may add more guns to their collection.

Additional costs may be associated with options available. Handcrafted Traditions options:

Full felt backing in your choice of available colors
Drawers in any configuration you may like included in the base
Different Buttrest configurations

What are the most common types of wood used for gun cabinetry?

Red Oak, Maple and Pine are the most common types of wood  requested by my clients

Are there any major advantages to using one type of wood over another?

My Personal preference is Red Oak. Ninety-nine percent of the cabinets I make for my clients are Red Oak. I buy this lumber in quantity and I am able to keep my costs low and -pass on the savings to my clients. Advantages would be more a personal preference when it comes to wood, in my opinion.

What security options are typically available in a gun cabinet?

This is a good question.

Security? First off, I make gun cabinets. They are made out of wood. The cabinets display your guns and have glass in the doors. A hammer and/or crow-bar will make short work of entering a gun cabinet. That goes for any gun cabinet made out of wood, regardless of the security measures installed. Many of my clients have “Mancaves” and “Gun Rooms” with vaulted doors built into their house and that gives them extra peace of mind. I have other clients that state “ If I have to hide my guns, then what’s the need in having them.”

Insurance, alarm systems, triggerlocks, all these extra security measures help. I hear from some people that they would feel real bad if their guns fell into the wrong hands and were used to harm. At the same time I hear other people tell me “Cars kill more people than guns do”.

I always tell my clients that a gun cabinet is not a safe, and all security expectations should be set accordingly.  My dad raised me to respect guns and taught me at a early age the responsibility that goes with them.  My clients are educated enough to make the decision on security and responsibility.  I try to stay out of that debate.

What are the most common additional features available to add to a base unit?

You can add many additional features, and I think I touched on these earlier. I have some clients that elected me to be creative with their cabinets and stained the inside different from the outside. That really looks nice with the right combination. Anything is possible.

What stain and clear coat options are available/commonly used?

I use Minwax stains and 4 coats of Lacquer for my finish. I offer gloss and satin and 99% of my clients choose satin which is my personal preference as well. The cabinet is “eye candy”.  The guns inside should be the focus and many stocks  have a gloss that really attracts the attention to the contents. My clients tell me that when they sit back from a long day’s work, or have time to just be around their cabinet they are reminded of the many enjoyable days they spent afield with family and friends or on a special hunt. That is one of biggest reasons they choose a wooden gun cabinet.

What kind of maintenance can we employ to extend the life of the cabinet?

Same procedure as cleaning any furniture. Little polish from time to time.

Handcrafted Traditions gun cabinets are built to outlast you and me. Short of a tornado coming through your house, with care and respect, the cabinet will be handed down to your family members.

Anything to avoid?

You don’t want to have lots of moisture, particularly with lots of heat.  I use joinery that can expand in these cases, but as a rule of thumb, water and wood do not mix.

Do you recommend any cabinet accessories like dehumidifiers?

I have had clients that installed dehumidifiers, but I also haven’t had any past clients tell me their guns were rusting in their wood cabinets. We all know proper cleaning and oiling of guns is very important.

Is there anything you’d like to add?

Thank you for this opportunity to explain my Profession. It’s never my intention to talk [poorly] about other gun cabinet manufactures.  Each has expertise with their products. I would again emphasize that references, testimonials and craftsmanship be among the criteria for choosing a nice wooden gun cabinet. Safety should always be present in regard to handling guns. A gun has no brain, like a car, and in the wrong hands or inexperienced hands can be dangerous.

For the record, what title best describes what you do?

Craftsman (simple – I like it)

I want to think Tom again for shining his rays of genuine expertise on this site.  If you have any questions, please send them my way – better yet – take out the middle man and head on over to Handcrafted Traditions for a real answer.  Stay safe.

All Winchester safe orders are processed through GunSafes.com to ensure free shipping.

There’s a huge demographic out there of folks, likely like you and I, who have the noble intention of keeping their firearms out of unauthorized hands, while protecting them, and other valuables from break ins and house fires.  Generally, a security container large enough to store a couple dozen guns, and resilient enough to withstand a burglary attack or a fire for any respectable length of time is not gonna be cheap.  Premium safes can easily creep up in the $5-10K price range.  Winchesters, however, are a refreshing exception.  They’re for the working man who wants a unit he can count on, but doesn’t want to pay out the butt for it.

Now, I’m not saying that a Ranger is going to withstand the heat of a thermic lance for terribly long, but it shouldn’t have any trouble holding its own against an assailant armed with pry bar and a power drill.  UL, in fact, has proven that to be the case.  The majority of Winchester safes (technically residential security containers) are UL RSC listed, which means they’ve been put through the ringer from UL’s renown safe crackers.

They’re safes can also take a bit of heat.  Though not exactly a comforting thought, your valuables are more likely to succumb to a fire than a professional burglary; overlooking fire protection can be  a painful mistake.  Every Winchester container, with the exception of their handgun safes (the EV series) has been fire tested.  From the 30 minutes of resistance offered by the Ranger, all the way up to the 2 hours the Supreme series can withstand, your stuff is in good hands within the quenching grip of a Winchester.

Manufactured by the pros at Granite Security, Winchester gun safes are backed by a lifetime guarantee against burglaries and fires.  This means that if your safe even receives the slightest scratch during a said assault, the fine folks at Winchester will repair or totally replace your safe depending on the severity of the damage – no cost to you…not too bad, eh?

Again, they’re not the biggest and baddest boys on the block, but if you’re looking for a product that boasts dependability on a budget, look no further than a Winchester.  I’ve written extensively on these products in the past – here’s a previous post covering the company more in-depth, as well as some of their older products.

Not all gun lovers have a firearms collection large enough to justify dropping a couple grand on a premium gun safe, and if they ever had the money to make it happen, they’d likely just run out and spend it on more guns (sometimes I secretly wish someone would put a gun to my head and make me spend my life savings on machine guns and ninja swords…is that sick?).

Anyways, the point is, gun owners who have dozens of firearms locked up in their house are definitely a minority among those of us who just have one or two that they keep around for the occasional hunting trip.  Regardless of your story, it’s my healthy opinion that every gun owner has the right, and arguably the duty to arm himself with the tools necessary to properly defend his family and household.  Having accessibility to your firearms, second only to safety, is the number one factor you should take into consideration when planning your defense.

I carry a pistol on me wherever it’s legal to carry one, and that includes getting up off my couch at half time to hit the head.  My wife thinks I’m insane, but I do it anyway for two reasons.  One, guns are just fun to wear and they’re more practical than jewelry, and two, you never know when someone’s going to come breaking through the backdoor.  I don’t know what the statistics are for home invasions in your neighborhood, and frankly I don’t care.  The point is, it’s possible, it can happen, and if it does, it’s the other guy’s face you want exploding all over your bedroom wall in the middle of the night.

Sorry for being so grim, but it’s true, most break ins do occur after bedtime.  For this reason, it’s important, no matter who you are to safely keep a firearm next to your bed, accessible in a seconds notice.  The following are a few rapid access, bedside gun storage solutions that I’ve ordered based on a feature-rich sliding scale.  We’ll start from the bottom:

Pistol under the pillow method:

What’s the fastest way to get to a loaded shotgun in the middle of the night?  Just sleep with it in your bed, dummy!  Seriously though, I’m pretty much not joking.  Bedside mounted gun racks like The Back-Up are the quickest way to arm yourself coming out of a dead sleep.  They’re also the most dangerous.  They work by placing the frame, which is the bulk of the unit, underneath the mattress, leaving the gun rack exposed.  You simply adjust the rack to fit your gun, place it on the rack, and let your sheets hang over it.  Check out the infomercial if you haven’t seen it yet – it’s a real gem.

It would be pretty easy to make one of these, but they’re not terribly expensive; when it’s all said and done, you’re probably better off just buying one.  This bedside firearm storage solution’s biggest flaw is also it’s biggest perk; it’s right out in the open for anyone to have access.  The folks behind The Back-Up explicitly advise against using this product in a home with children, but even if I didn’t have kids, I might shy away from it.  My brother crashes at my house every now and then, and the dude has been known to sleepwalk.  I don’t want him wandering into my room, butting up against my bed, and finding a weapon to hunt his Dreamland critters with.  I’m just sayin’…

If you’re considering this freewheelin’ solution, but you’re looking for a little more flexibility, consider a product like the Quick Draw Gun Magnet.  You can mount it just about anywhere from behind your headboard to under your nightstand, and it will magnetically keep a firearm weighing up to 10 lbs in place.  If you’re an empty nester, keeping your guns out in the open definitely has its tactical advantages, but it still scares the hell out of me.

Handgun Safes

I’m a huge proponent of handgun safes.  They’re priced well, compact, and fit a perfect balance between security and accessibility.  I’m not going to go into too much detail on handgun safes in this article, as I’ve covered the basics of buying one rather extensively already (here’s an article…and here’s another).  I will say, however, that if you just take a minute to read a few feature lists and reviews, you can’t really go wrong.  The options are virtually limitless – my advice is to simply pick the one that meets your needs.  I personally have a GunVault MiniVault biometric safe and a Winchester EVault, and I’ve been very happy with both.

The only downside to these buggers is that they aren’t large enough to secure a rifle or a shotgun.  Of course, a pistol is a heck of a lot better than a flatline.

Wall Safes

Like the aforementioned pistol boxes, wall safes come in all sorts of fun varieties.  I wouldn’t recommend storing anything terribly expensive in one unless it’s extremely well hidden (you might end up with a huge hole in your wall), but most will offer the capacity to stow anything from handguns to handbags.  That said, what attracts me to wall safes is that they’re a smart, secure way to keep long guns in the bedroom.  As wild as The Back-Up commercial is (see above), it pretty well speaks the truth; you’re usually in a better position when you’re armed with a shotgun over a pistol.

Unfortunately, most wall safes don’t come in a size adequate for long gun storage.  There aren’t too many out there on the market.  Homak makes a really inexpensive keyed entry model, which will house up to three rifles or shotguns, but I’m a little weary around the notion of fumbling around for keys in the middle of the night.  However, if you don’t view that as a deterrent, more power to you.

Another wall safe capable of long gun storage is the V-line Closet Vault, which can be mounted or embedded directly into the wall.  The Closet Vault is a great unit.  It’s spacious, easily accessorized, and employs a mechanical push button lock; electrical failures aren’t terribly common, but with the V-line unit they’re impossible.  It’s a bit expensive, but it’s a fantastic product.

One downside to wall safes that I’ve discussed before is that they aren’t quite as accessible as the aforementioned “pistol under the pillow” or even the handgun safe method.  No matter where you palce it, you’re always going to have to spend a few extra seconds getting up out of bed and running across the room to open it – small price to pay for the tactical benefit of an 870?  Perhaps – but it’s still something to roll around the old noggin’.  Here’s some more food if you’re still hungry for my wall safe ramblings.

Hidden Gun Safe Furniture

Ok, so kids in the house (or the fear of keeping a loaded shotgun between the sheets) rule out The Back-Up as an option, you don’t want to put any massive holes in your walls, and handgun safes…well, they just aren’t pretty enough…what bedside firearms storage option does that leave?  Simple – just streamline a biometric gun safe directly into your nightstand.  The good folks over at SleepSafe have near-perfected this build.

They sell office desks, dressers, foyer tables, and, of course, nightstands, all with seamlessly built in fingerprint reading safes for rapid accessibility.  While the nightstand in particular is a fully functional piece of furniture, its top drawer is lined head-to-toe and to-and-fro with hidden 12 gauge steel.  The drawer slides out smoothly when you swipe your finger over the biometric reader, which can be placed on either the left or right side (determined when you put in the build order).

Gun safe furniture (for lack of a better term) ain’t cheap.  SleepSafes nightstands in particular will run you a cool $1400, however, this is no Wal-Mart grade particle board – this is some handmade quality @#$%.  They’ll build your safe with solid Hickory, Oak, or Cherry, and stain it however you’d like.  If you have the funds to drop on a piece like this, it’s a heck of a setup…I’d love to have a piece of this functional furniture in every room in my house, but again, I’m not quite right in the head.

Bed Bunker Concealed Safe

This final unit just barely squeezes into this article, as this list is comprised of bed “side” gun storage; the Bed Bunker is more of a bed “underside” solution.  Nomenclature aside, the real reason I hesitate on including this breed of security enclosures is because it’s not geared for quick entry – at least relative to the other units mentioned.  Unfortunately, I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing one of these suckers in “real life”, but it looks like one heck of a unit – unique in the least.

The Bed Bunker is very similar in both makeup and concept to the discontinued Amsec HC1854, only it’s a lot bigger, thicker, and designed to fill very particular niche concealment.  Overall, it weighs between 670 and 1500 lbs (depending on the model) with 10 gauge steel walls and a 1/4″ thick gas spring-assisted steel door.   Its massive interior allows storage for allegedly 35 long guns and 70 handguns.  It even offers a said two hour fire rating.  Again, I’ve never actually touched one of these, but from reading the spec sheet, and a couple of reviews, it looks quite beastly.

What makes it so unique, as previously stated, is that it lays directly underneath your mattress.  They offer seven different sizes (from twin to California king), fitted just right for your bedroom decor.  Ten gauge steel may be seen as a little thin for the walls of a $2-4,000 safe, but as its name entails, this sucker’s made to stay hidden; cover it up with a flowery bed skirt, and you’re in business.  If the gun safe’s a rockin’, don’t come a knockin’…am I right? (If you’ve ever wanted to make love on a pile of 100 firearms, this is probably the “safest” way to do it

The downside of this unit, and most other horizontal safes stored under the bed, is that you can’t really get to them in a hurry.  You have to slide the mattress off (which would drive my wife nuts, no matter who was breaking in) to get to the safe.  That in itself, wouldn’t necessarily be a terrible hindrance, but the lock (Mul-T-Lock) requires keyed entry.

For casual access, considering the location of the unit, this isn’t really a bad thing.  For an emergency situation, however, I’m afraid to say it’s just too many steps.  In the accompanying video, the guy does it in 10 seconds, which isn’t too bad.  However, he already has the key in his hand, and no one’s sleeping in the bed next to him.   If that’s good enough for you, awesome, but in my house, I’d have to find the key in the dark, wake up my soon to be terrified, paralyzed with fear wife, make her get off the bed (which I just peed because, I too, am terrified) so that I could move the mattress, find the lock, open it…I don’t know, maybe I’m missing something.  I’d love for someone to tell me what it is because I think this unit has a lot of good things to offer.

You don’t want to screw around much when you’re buying a new gun safe.  I suggest investing the same amount of effort and research into buying a new safe as you do when you’re car shopping.  It may sound a little silly, but you could be spending several thousand dollars on your investment, and unlike in the case of an automobile, a smart safe purchase will last you a lifetime.

Unless you’ve been in the business, and know exactly what to look for, researching your potential purchase can be extremely difficult.  You (and me both) need some professional help.  Luckily, there’s plenty of it to go around.  UL, an international product testing company that I’ve praised before, is the leading authority on safe security and fire protection.  Their testing is brutal, and most importantly, consistent and totally unbiased.  If the unit you’re looking at has the UL mark of approval, you’re likely looking in the right direction.

Unfortunately, finding helpful information on their site can be a little frustrating, particularly if you lack experience querying databases.  They have literally millions of pages of data on thousands upon thousands of products that they’ve tested (everything from food services to biohazard storage), and walking into this kind of information blindly can be a bit overwhelming.

Luckily, the good folks at UL were kind enough to create a rather intuitive guide to address the process which can be found here: UL Online Certifications Database Quick Guide.  Take a little bit of time to get acquainted with it – getting the right knowledge can save you a ton of money and heartache – they make it easy to do your homework.

Of course, I’ve taken the liberty of extracting a bit of information on their residential security containers, safes, and safe locks for you and added them below.  Many of the safes listed below aren’t “gun safes” per se (most of those are found in the residential security containers group), however, if converted, they’d more than fit the bill (1″ steel always fits the bill .   Have a look, and let me know if you have any questions:

Safes:

Residential Security Containers

Tool Resistant safe Class TL-15

Tool Resistant TL-15×6 (15 minutes on all sides)

TL-30

TL-30×6

Tool and Torch Resistant TRTL-30

TRTL-15×6

TRTL-30×6

TRTL-60×6

Locks:

Combination Locks

Combo Group 1R

Group 2

Group 2M

Electronic Locks

Type 1

Legal Stuff

See General Information for Safes and Chests

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-15

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-15X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-30

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-30X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-30 GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel, having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, encased in not less than 3 in. of reinforced concrete or in a larger safe or other container, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-15X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools and cutting torches.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-30X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-60X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked steel chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

For additional information, see Security Equipment (ALOV).

REQUIREMENTS

The basic standard used to investigate products in this category is ANSI/UL 687, “Burglary-Resistant Safes.”

[Locks] Combination Locks

See General Information for Combination Locks

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 1 locks have 20 working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 1R

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 1R locks have 20 working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation and 20 hours of resistance to a radiological attack.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 2

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 2 locks have a moderate degree of resistance to unauthorized opening.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 2M

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 2M locks have two working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

For additional information, see Combination Locks (OXJT) and Security Equipment (ALOV).

REQUIREMENTS

The basic standard used to investigate products in this category is ANSI/UL 768, “Combination Locks.”

[Locks] High-security Electronic Locks

USE

This category covers high-security electronic locks intended for use on chests, safes and vault doors to provide a means of locking the bolt work against unauthorized opening.

High-security electronic locks do not necessarily have built-in protection against entry by force; such protection depends largely on the construction of the safe or vault on which the lock is installed.

High-security electronic locks are provided with means for changing the code for opening the lock. It is important that the locks be set on a code of numbers individual to each safe rather than on a common factory setting.

LOCK TYPES

High-security electronic locks are classified as Type 1, Type 1F or Type 2, according to the degree of protection afforded against manipulation or surreptitious entry, and uses for which judged suitable as follows:

Type 1 high-security electronic looks are highly resistant to expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious attacks. Type 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary-resisting safes and chests, such as Class TRTL-15X6, -30, -30X6, -60X6, TXTL-60X6, and on vaults.

Type 1F high-security electronic locks afford the same protection against expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious entry as a Type 1 lock and, in addition, have been investigated in accordance with U.S. Federal Specification FF-L-2740, except for security tests. Type 1F locks are considered suitable for use on safes, security files and vaults where the highest degree of protection is required.

Type 2 high-security electronic locks are considered suitable for use on tool-resistant safes, Class TL-15, -15X6, -30 and 30X6, insulated record containers, and light vault doors.

[Locks] (High-security Electronic Locks) High-security Electronic Locks, Type 1

USE

This category covers Type 1 high-security electronic locks that are highly resistant to expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious attacks.

Type 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary-resistant safes and chests, such as Class TRTL-15X6, -30, -30X6, -60X6, TXTL-60X6, and on vaults.

UL MARK

The Security Listing Mark of Underwriters Laboratories Inc. on the product is the only method provided by UL to identify products manufactured under its Listing and Follow-Up Service. The Security Listing Mark for these products includes the UL symbol with the word “SECURITY” above the UL symbol and the word “LISTED” below the UL symbol (as illustrated in the Introduction of this Directory), a control number, and the product name “Tool-resistant Safe, TL-15 Burglary.”

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

UL, in performing its functions in accordance with its objectives, does not assume or undertake to discharge any responsibility of the manufacturer or any other party. UL shall not incur any obligation or liability for any loss, expense or damages, including incidental or consequential damages, arising out of or in connection with the use, interpretation of, or reliance upon this Guide Information.

Reprinted from the Online Certifications Directory with permission from Underwriters Laboratories Inc.  Copyright © 2010 Underwriters Laboratories Inc.®

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A while back, I wrote an article on Homak products, mainly addressing their line of security cabinets and pistol boxes.  In this post, I discussed an issue that’s a bit of a personal pet peeve; when metal gun cabinets are mistakenly referred to as gun safes.  It just gives folks a false sense of security.  While I spent the majority of the article objectively discussing the company’s product line, I went on a bit of a rant in the beginning, venting my frustration for the aforementioned annoyance.  At one point I said, “if you visit their site [Homak's], you’ll notice that nowhere on it does it say that they make gun safes – they make gun cabinets”.

That statement is, at the moment, still true; Homak doesn’t showcase their gun safes on their site.  However, they do indeed manufacture them (well, technically they’re residential security containers, but calling them safes is more convenient…).  Their gun cabinets and pistol boxes are still the company’s claim to fame, but they’ve packed in some more variety with a handful of safes as well.

Homak gun safes can best be pigeonholed into two main categories; those with fire protection, and those without.  Those that lack the fire rating come in the 12 and 16 gun capacity varieties and are easily distinguishable from the others by their baked on hunter green finish.  If you’ve read any of my other articles, you’ve probably gathered that I’m not a big fan of cheap crappy safes.  Don’t get me wrong, I fully understand that not everyone has $4-5K to shell out on a premium security container (I certainly don’t) – I’m just saying that you ought not to invest $600 into something just because it says “safe” on it.

Homak’s green safes don’t crack 175 lbs, they have a cheap electronic lock, and could be ripped wide open by any crook with half an ass full of effort.  If you have one, and you like it, fantastic – sorry to offend you – for me, however, I’m a proponent of either spending a few hundred dollars more on a decently secure unit (like a Winchester or a low-end Sturdy Safe), or spend a few hundred dollars less, and pick up a gun cabinet (like a Stack On, or even a Homak!).  These two safes fall into a bittersweet area that I personally would steer clear of.

As mentioned, they also produce three fire resistant products, offering 16, 24, and 36 gun capacities.  I hate to say it (because I really like Homak’s pistol boxes and most of their cabinets), but these are very short of spectacular.  They’re a bit better than the previously discussed non-fireproof models, as they all offer an ETL endorsed fire rating of 30 minutes at 1400 degrees F, but their other features are overshadowed by other manufactures’ products in the same price range.  For example, let’s run a quick comparison pitting the Homak 36 Gun Fire Safe against the Winchester Western 45.

They’ll both run you in the neighborhood of $1,350.  Though fire ratings tend to be a bit ambiguous, the Winchester is rated 1 hour at 1400 degrees against the Homak’s 30 minutes at the same temperature.  The Winchester is nearly 20% bigger, and offers the ability to store an additional 9 long guns (without the majority of additional shelving – in either unit).  The Winchester Western is made with 12 gauge steel, which ideally is a bit light, however, it’s over 300 lbs more resilient than the Homak.  The Winchester also has seven more locking bolts, and passed UL’s five minute tool attack test – the Homak can’t make the same claim.

Winchester safes pack some pretty decent value, but I’m not saying that they’re the best safe on the market.  What I am saying, however, is that Homak gun safes aren’t worth the asking price.  I’ll continue to be a pretty big fan of their cabinets and handgun boxes, but unless they make some serious changes, you’ll never see me storing my guns in their safes.

Highest Capacity

I’m nothing but a broke gun nut with a blog, so I don’t exactly have safe manufacturers banging down my door, begging me to test their products.  I’m forced to get my information the old fashioned way…reading a crap ton of message board threads to find out what other safe owners think.  There are a lot of proud folks out there, both praising their safes and the guns inside them, but the sad song I continue to hear no matter where I go is, “I should have bought a bigger gun safe”.

Guns are like tattoos; most dudes who have them aren’t going to stop getting them until they run out of space (within reason, of course).  Don’t fool yourself.  You know darn well that your 9 piece firearms collection is gonna grow to 15 in a couple years – forget the 12 gun safe – go for the 24.  Forget the 36, go for the 51.  Forget the 64, go for the Gibraltar!  Seriously though, friends, you have to think about the future.

Of course, you also need to think about the present.  Most gun manufacturers don’t factor scopes, tactical lights, fore grips, or .50 BMG muzzle breaks into the equation when they advertise their capacity.  That said, if you’re looking to store some well-accessorized cannons, you may want to factor that into consideration during check out time.  That 24 capacity gun safe won’t have any problem holding two dozen barebones Ruger 10/22′s, but you elephant hunters out there may have a different experience.  If you have the money, it never hurts to get a bigger safe; I’m sure you have plenty of other valuables that would be in your best interest to lock up.  Here are a few models that set the bar for capacity.

Liberty Safes: Fat Boy
Capacity: 64

Sturdy Gun Safe: Model 6028-6
Capacity: 75

Pentagon (Sportsman Steel Safes): Double Wide Crown Series
Capacity: 100

Superior Safes: Ironside 95
Capacity: 120

Coolest Gun Safe

If you’re in the market for a new safe, your main priority is likely security (and price), but that’s a good thing; security should almost always be the most important factor.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong buying a big, reliable, drab gray box to sit hidden in your basement with your valuables locked safely inside.  In fact, boring can be a good idea; if the burglar doesn’t notice it, he won’t try to break it open.

All that’s great….boring dependability is just swell, but there’s something in me that craves that sweet taste of novelty flair.  It’s the part of me that would rather read a Bud K catalog than the Wall Street Journal.  It’s the part of me that went into the dealer to buy a neat and simple Ruger Mark III and came out with a GSG-5; it’s the mall ninja part of me that can’t get enough gun safe bells and whistles

Runner up: Browning Mark II Tactical gun safe

The Mark II Browning Tactical is the kind of safe that every mall ninja out there just wants to lock himself inside and get high on that new safe smell (don’t though – you’ll die).  This sucker is dripping with storage efficiency.  The majority of firearms security containers on the market don’t exactly cater to the tactical buff.  Though a little bit of TLC, decent convertible shelving and a few well placed accessories can give just about any safe the resources to adequately house your arsenal, the Mark II is ready to go right out of the box.

It’s named appropriately.  It may be cliche’d to pieces and buzzworded to death, but I honestly can’t think of a better adjective than “tactical” to describe this safe.   If I had to compare it to a gun, it would probably be the DPMS RAPTR; a reliable product that includes a slew of surprisingly useful bells and whistles.  For starters, it just looks bad ass.  The exterior sports a baked on satin black finish, an S&G Type I electronic lock, exterior mounted hangers and the ballsiest chrome handle you ever did see…I wish they made it in a belt buckle.

As sharp as the outside looks, the inside is what makes this beast live up to its moniker.

What tactical characteristic is shared among just about all aptly named firearms on the market?  The Picatinny rail system, of course!  The Browning Mark II is one of the only safes models I can think of that actually has one.  This means any black rifle mods that you want to organize can be effectively stored separately from your piece.  But as cool as it is, the rail system is only scratching the surface.  Its list of accessories is a long one.

From the ground up you have a waterproof, rubberized floor mat to keep your guns’ wear to a minimum.  The inside of the door is loaded with pockets, straps and racks, able to easily hold half a dozen various sized cannons, magazines, and accessories.  The bulk of the interior is jacked freakin’ full of organizational potential – just look at the picture for cryin’ out loud (I admit – the guns shown in this picture have influenced my attraction to this safe)!.  Everything from 1911s to bullpups to Barret M82′s will feel right at home in this bad boy.  And to cap things off, the safe is equipped with lighting and a full length mirror; two extremely underrated features.

The only reason I deemed this unit runner up is because I’m disappointed in its body thickness.  Browning stacked this unit to the 9′s, so why they built it with 11 gauge steel is beyond me.  Eleven gauge thickness is bearable in a less testosterone fueled model, but I have no idea why Browning didn’t bump this guy up to 7 gauge – at least as an option.  Oh well.  It’s still cool as crap (cold crap).

Coolest: Pendleton King Revolution Gun Safe

This thing is freakin’ rad.  Even if it were a total piece of crap, I would still feel comfortable calling it the coolest gun safe I’ve ever seen.  Fortunately, however, it’s not a piece of crap.  It’s actually a pretty well built, secure safe.  The Pendleton King is an innovative security container with a reliable S&G electronic lock, nearly 1300 lbs of steel, and a resiliency rating decent enough to get UL’s RSC blessing – but those are just boring reliability features – they hardly do anything for its mall ninja appeal.

The first thing you’ll notice that’s a bit different about this safe is that it’s cylindrical.  It looks like a phone book that would give Superman a claustrophobic panic attack (yeh, he’s no match for Krypton or tight spaces).  The reason for its unorthodox design becomes very apparent when you open the door.  You’re greeted by as many as 40 long guns and 26 pistols revolving around on 12 volt motor-powered, turret shelving.  The interior is lit up by over 300 LED lights (with an alleged 100,000 hour lifetime rating)…it looks like a tanning bed from Hell.  The floor is constructed from neoprene to help prevent both unnecessary wear and moisture damage to the firearms.  This unit, like all of Pendleton’s revolving safes, also includes a built in dehumidifier.

Don’t write off this safe’s slickness as a gimmick folks, it’s the real deal.

Best Gun Safes Part 1

Many place too much clout in strategies that involve depending on the use of their cars for grab and go survival. If things get hairy enough, you may not have the luxury of an automobile. That said, packing light, and keeping only the bare essentials may be the only concern you can afford to have.

This article covers the emergency backpack supplies that you’ll need to give yourself the best odds of surviving an disastrous situation. Virtually every item mentioned is something that you can fit into one compact backpack. Any perishable items on this list have a minimum of five years, so it doesn’t hurt to start preparing early. Even packing for a vacation is a pain in the butt, so give yourself some peace of mind, and finish packing for Hell on Earth today.

Pre-assembled emergency backpack kits

I suggest a lot of different evacuation supplies in this article. Although most of the supplies is very inexpensive, it adds up quickly. Not to mention, unless you already have a lot of the equipment, it’s a chore to assemble everything. If you’re serious about adequate disaster preparedness, and you want to save some money by purchasing in bulk, I suggest picking up a pre-assembled evacuation kit.

If you go this route, and want to give your family a solid three day advantage, be prepared to spend anywhere from $75 to $250.  Purchasing everything on this list could quickly add up past the latter, so opting for a pre-packaged unit is often the best option.  If you throw down a couple hundred bucks on one of these kits, and five years from now, when all the food is about to expire, you can still use it by throwing a huge “We Didn’t Have an Apocalyptic Disaster Party” with all your gear (kegs are generally sold separately).

The Backpack

You need to be prepared to pack up your bare essentials and get on your way. Local disasters and mass evacuations will not grant you the luxury of staying forever in your fortified dwelling. That said, a good survival backpack is an absolute must.

Choose one that’s logically compartmentalized. In a pinch, there’s no substitute for organization and quick accessibility. Look for a backpack with two or three primary compartments. Some mesh lined pockets on the outside are a plus for fast access. Ideally, you’ll also want to look for a backpack with a self-contained hydration system in the top compartment.

Durability and comfort must also be a priority. A substantial, but inexpensive solution is a heavy duty polyester backpack. This material is lightweight, weather resistant, and you won’t go broke picking the right one. For the sake of comfort, choose a backpack with a good waist strap. That added reinforcement makes a world of difference during a long trek – It’ll save ya from a backiatomy.

The Everest 8045DLX is a solid pack for our purposes. It’s relatively inexpensive, and in the vain of grab-n-go disaster survival, it’s about all you’ll need.

Food

In an emergency situation, your consumption concerns should revolve around having enough sustenance to maintain energy in any situation. Here are a couple food items that should be a staple in your disaster supplies kit.

High-calorie food bars – These are most often found in the 1200, 2400, and 3600 calorie varieties. Rationing just one 3600 calorie bar can provide enough nutritional value to keep an averaged sized man going strong (conservatively) for four days.

They require no preparation, short of opening a sealed package. They are made with only natural ingredients, and their lack of preservatives will help keep your thirst at bay and your water supply stretched. The bars are packaged in pre-cut tablets, for easy rationing. And finally, this US Coast Guard approved meal is safe to eat for five years, so stock up now, and be prepared for the worst in ’15. Datrex is the leader in the high-calorie food bar industry – I’ve sampled their bars and they don’t taste too horrible.

MRE Self-Heating Meals – If you’re traveling with picky children, or just need a little more variety than high calorie food bars have to offer, you should pack your bag with a few MREs.

These “Meals Ready to Eat” are a US military favorite that come in a slew of different varieties. One product, “The Ultimate Self-Heating MRE” is packed with an entree of your choice, a side, a dessert, a snack, a flavored drink, and condiments all in one light-weight, durable container.

The containers are made from aluminum lined polyethylene, preserving them for up to 10 years. And although they’re perfectly safe to eat cold, the self contained heaters only require a tablespoon of water to activate, serving up a fine warm meal.

You definitely save the most on MREs when you buy them in bulk.  Save yourself a few bucks and buy by the dozen.

Water – Stay Hydrated

4.227 oz Water Pouches – You’re probably asking yourself, “Who would package water in such a ridiculously random amount?”. The truth is, there’s nothing random about 4.227 ounces at all. The Red Cross has determined that the average meal during an emergency situation requires 4.227 ounces of water to properly digest.

Rather than playing guessing games, carrying a nice supply of these pouches makes it much easier to efficiently ration your water supply. Personally, I prefer a pint of dark beer with my dinner, but in a survival situation, these water pouches will give you just the right amount you need. They have a shelf life of five years.

Collapsible Water Container – Don’t doom yourself by missing an opportunity to refill your water supply. The Red Cross deems 2.5 gallons of water an adequate amount to keep you plenty hydrated for a day spent in even the worst of Earth’s nasty climates.

Regardless of the brand you choose, ensure that your container is made from heavy polyethylene. This material warrants excellent flexibility for storage while not in use, and provides great durability to prevent leaks and punctures. Polyethylene can withstand extreme temperatures, so don’t be afraid to fill it with ice – water comes in all shapes and sizes – just make sure the opening is large enough to pack those ice chunks.

Water Purification Tablets – Don’t go out like a chump. If the water you’re about to sip looks questionable, don’t chance it. Harmful bacteria, viruses, and protozoa like giardia iamblia won’t end your survival stint with these easy-to-use purification tablets. One small container of Potable Aqua tablets will typically give you enough clean water to fill up your new collapsible container three times.

Emergency Shelter

An emergency evacuation will leave you no time to go house hunting for shelter. What you need is something lightweight, durable, versatile, and easy to store while not in use. A tube tent fits the bill, and is another must have for any disaster preparedness kit.

For around the price of a Big Mac meal, you can pick up a tube tent with the capacity to shelter two people from the elements during an emergency. The model featured at the right weighs just over a pound, provides protection from moisture with its thick plastic material, and comes equipped with a cord, allowing you to stabilize it between two solid structures. Again, for just $5-10, you’re a cold, wet fool not to add one of these to your grab-n-go emergency backpack kit.

Stay Warm

Emergency Blanket – These blankets don’t look too warm, in fact, they altogether look pretty ridiculous. Thankfully, fashion doesn’t carry much clout in the world of disaster survival. For less than a dollar, you can store one of these life savers virtually anywhere – from your back pocket to your glove compartment – bust one of these suckers out to protect yourself from freezing to death. The baked potato aluminum foil look is a deliberate feature designed to reflect over 90% of your body heat in an emergency situation. Shell out a buck or two and add these to your disaster preparedness kit – you’ll be glad you did when you don’t die.

Emergency Sleeping Bag – These sleeping bags use the same radiant heat reflecting technology as the blankets. Put one of these on to keep your body warm while you snuggle up together with your honey, holding each other for dear life under the comfort of your $5.00 tube tent. All joking aside, these incredibly compact sleeping bags are made to cover all sizes from head to toe during an emergency situation. Being quite inexpensive, they’re a worthy investment.

Emergency Ponchos – I don’t care how much body heat you’re reflecting under that sleeping bag, having wet clothes is horribly uncomfortable and potentially dangerous. You never know when it may be time to move – Packing an emergency poncho with your survival kit is the best, and cheapest way to keep your clothes dry, and your body safe during harsh conditions. You can pick up this stylish piece of survival apparel for under a buck.

Handwarmers – At 135 degrees, disposable handwarmers provide an instant, close contact heat source. Grabber handwarmers break down to less than a dollar/piece, and provide up to eight hours of warmth that you’ll be thankful you have. To activate them, simply open the packaging. If you don’t need them for the full eight hours, simply seal them back up in an airtight bag, and save the remainder for later.

Flat Fold Stove – For around $9.00, you can pick up a portable flat fold stove, which can be easily stowed in your emergency prepared backpack. These stoves come with two dozen fuel tablets, giving you the ability to heat yourself and those around you, or cook up a delicious meal. The easy to light, clean burning fuel tabs are able to heat up a liter of water in 8 minutes. Flat fold stoves are an easy to use, integral addition to any survival kit.

Fire and Light

Waterproof Matches – Waterproof matches are essential to emergency backpacks from all walks of life. Even if you fail to heed my aforementioned advice, and travel without a poncho, you can use your soaked box of waterproof matches to fire up your flat fold stove and warm yourself up again. These matches are able to light after being totally submerged – you could go noodling for catfish, and still be able to start a fire. A box of fifty will put a three-quarter dent in your piggy bank. These are a no-brainer.

Emergency Candles – You may not always have the benefit of an electric powered lantern – a candle is a perfect powerless, inexpensive and lightweight alternative. I won’t insult you by explaining what a candle does, but I can recommend one that should be a part of any respectable evacuation kit; the 115-hour ReadyCandle burns for [you guessed it] up to 115 hours on odorless, clean burning liquid paraffin. They’re made with a simple snap-on cap, so you won’t have a huge mess on your hands when you inevitably knock it over. You better getcha one.

Lightsticks – Also great for woodland raves, emergency lightsticks will keep your vision going for 12 hours when power or flames aren’t an option. Simply snap them to turn on the florescent light. For $1.49/piece, you’ll never have more fun being stranded in the wilderness – kids love em too!

Flashlight – If you’re lucky enough to have one (which you will be if you prepare properly), nothing beats a flashlight for staying alive in the dark, and telling wicked ghost stories to evacuees who are already scared out of their minds. Although they come in many different flavors, there are a few key features you’ll want to consider when choosing the right flashlight to add to your backpack.

First, consider the size. Having a 5 million candlepower spotlight on hand would certainly have its advantages, but it will leave you little room in your backpack for the rest of your emergency supplies. You’d be surprised what kind of power you can get out of a compact flashlight without breaking the bank.

Another thing you want to look for is power efficiency. I recommend flashlights equipped with LED lights. They’re bright, compact, easy on your batteries, and have a long bulb life. Some even operate on kinetic energy – simply shake your flashlight to recharge the batteries.

Survival Tools

You can’t eat them, and they won’t keep you warm, but preparing your survival kit with the proper tools is as equally important as your emergency blanket or high calorie food bar.

You may be sick of reading about my lightweight, durable, and versatile theme throughout this guide, but choosing the right tools for disaster preparation is no exception. I strongly recommend you pack at least something with similar functionality as the following items. These items, all small enough to squeeze into your backpack, may be essential to your survival.

• All In One Survival Aid – A compact rescue package, typically found in the 5-in-1 and 7-in-1 varieties. The key features to look for are a signal whistle, liquid compass, signal mirror, fire starter flint, and match compartment.
• Rope – Specifically Nylon rope. Nylon is a very strong, weather resistant material that you can count on when you need it. 50′ should be an adequate length to work with for most jobs and obstacles.
• Swiss Army Knife – Get yourself a compact 12-in-1 system. The Swiss Army knife’s notorious reputation for practicality makes it a staple in your disaster preparedness kit. Although I carry the Swiss Army brand, you can find a decent knock off to add to your kit for under $4.00.
• Duct Tape – Anyone who’s ever used duct tape (that’s everyone) knows that I don’t need to justify this recommendation. You don’t need enough to stick your friend to the wall – 10 yards should do it.
• Leatherman – Packed ripe with survival handiness, a 20 function Leatherman will provide you with one potentially crucial tool that your typical Swiss Army Knife won’t – pliers. A brand name Leatherman is great, but you can find a good cheap one for less than $10.00.
• Folding Shovel – There’s no replacement for the versatility of a compact shovel. Among its many uses, you can use it to dig fire pits, shelter, rerouting the path of water from your tube tent, finding water underground, disposing of your MRE waste droppings…the list goes on.
• Leather Gloves – You may not think to pack a pair of gloves in your disaster readiness kit, but protective leather padded gloves are an inexpensive investment to keep your hands busy and your heart beating. Less than $3.00 will allow you work with your hands much longer, clearing obstructive debris, and preparing necessary shelter. Pack a pair for any able body in your crew.

Communication – Emergency Radio

Regardless of the disaster, arguably the most important key to your survival is keeping yourself updated on the latest information. No simpler means meets this necessity than equipping your emergency kit with an AM/FM radio.

Because it may be quite difficult to determine how long you’ll be stuck in your predicament, having a redundant power supply for your radio is ideal. Popular portable radio power sources, other than batteries and AC, include handcrank and solar energy. This model ergonomically packs all four power features, almost guaranteeing that your radio won’t die. Let’s hope that you have similar luck.

A handy bonus feature that you may want to consider, also included in the Dynamo model mentioned above, is a radio/flashlight combo. With this, you get the blessing of having an extra flashlight on hand, and the priceless nostalgia of your middle school days, camping in your parents’ backyard, looking at dirty magazines and listening to Nirvana’s latest album.

Sanitation

I’m not suggesting that you labor in front of your signal mirror to get your hair just right, but a basic sanitation kit will significantly increase your odds of preventing disease and infection while on your little adventure. Sanitation kits come in a wide variety, many even including luxuries like buckets for waste purposes. However, during an evacuation, it may be advantageous to not be carrying around a bucket full of your feces. Using a compact folding shovel, which we’ll discuss later, you can dig yourself a nice dirt bucket.

When packing your hygiene/sanitation supplies for your evacuation kit, keep it simple. We’re talking a toothbrush, toothpaste, a bar of soap, small container of hand sanitizer, a garbage bag, and a package of tissues. For you pretty boys, you might want to even consider throwing in a comb, a razor, and a sheet or two of toilet paper.

It doesn’t sound like a lot – that’s because it isn’t. You aren’t going to the prom, you’re on the move, living on bare essentials until you find a more substantial living arrangement…then you can crap in that bucket all you want!

Emergency First Aid Kit

You’re not prepared for disaster evacuation if you haven’t packed a solid first aid kit. First aid kits usually range from 30-300 piece collections of simple, but essential medical supplies. For our intents and purposes, I suggest you pack a kit somewhere in the range of 75-100 pieces. You can pick up an 81-piece here for under $10.00.

I won’t detail every first aid piece you’ll need for thorough disaster preparedness, but the following are some of the staple supplies you’ll want to make sure you have when you buy your emergency backpack:

• The Right Case – This may be a no-brainer, but make sure you buy a kit enclosure that makes sense. For instance, the kit mentioned above gives you the option of a hard or a soft case. I think that the durable soft case is the best option for grab-n-go evacuation, as you’ll likely be packing this into a very snug backpack.
• Bandages – Just make sure you have plenty of bandages, ranging in a wide assortment of sizes and shapes, appropriately made to fit whatever wound you wind up with…you dumb klutz.
• Antiseptics and Pain Medicine – Pretty simple – pack cleansing wipes, healing ointment, aspirin, and ibuprofen to clean the wound and keep the pain at bay.
• Supplies For More Serious Injuries – Include trauma pads, gauze, first aid tape, and finger splints to keep yourself alive until you find more helpful help.
• Reference Material – None of this stuff is going to do you any good if you don’t know how to use it. Unless you’re a medical professional, I suggest finding a kit that includes a first aid guide. Also, at least skim it over when you get it. It’s always easier for me to learn new material when I’m not broken and bloodied.

I wrote this guide on putting together an emergency backpack about a year ago for a site I never got around to building.  It’s not directly gun safe related, but a safe is a pretty good place to store your disaster preparedness kit anyway – grab your supplies while you grab your guns.  Besides, this sucker is like 3500 words long, and took me a while to write – I’d hate to just let it rot in cyber Hell.

The majority of gun safes that you see in sporting goods stores, online shops, even on this site, aren’t really ‘safes’ in the truest sense – at least not in the eyes of UL (Underwriters Laboratories), the world’s foremost testing agency in security products.  They technically classify gun safes like Liberty’s Presidential, Browning’s Platinum Plus, and Fort Knox’s Legend as RSC’s (Residential Security Container).

But enough on what I have to say on the subject.  I asked a UL representative a few questions regarding their RSC rating system, and she was kind enough to give me her expert input.  Here’s what she had to say:

• What do you guys do for testing when a manufacturer brings their safe to you?

An attack test is conducted on the safe by 1 operator, using common hand tools not exceeding 18 in. in length, hammers not exceeding 3 pound head weight, and an electric drill with high speed and carbide tipped bits not exceeding 1/4 in. diameter. The attack is conducted for 5 minutes (clock runs only while the technician is actively attacking the unit), with an attempt to open the door of the safe.

• What determines whether or not they pass?

The safe door must remain closed and locked following the 5 minute attack.

• Are there any “must have” features I should look for that any safe that passes your tests has?

The designs and features of the UL Listed gun safes may vary widely. There are no required features, except that the lock provided must be a UL Listed lock (key lock, combination lock or electronic lock). All safes submitted are tested using the same methods and tools for the same time period.

• Are there different certification levels you offer for safes (residential stuff – not bank vaults..?)

For the residential rating there is only 1 rating (5-minute test).

She was also kind enough to include a list of all the UL RSC rated gun safes on the market.  What a sweetheart!

A jeweler, a banker, or a candlestick maker with a million dollar inventory might need something a little more beefy than a “residential security container”.  However, if you’re a gun owning citizen with a valuable firearms collection, or a case full of your grandma’s jewelry, you’ll want to make sure you’re locked up in a quality RSC.

Here’s a list of UL’s RSC rated safes for your viewing pleasure.  I should note that not all of these are in fact gun safes (as in not specifically for storing firearms).  Many are also listed by model number, which isn’t always a common qualifier on gun safe shops.  Before you make a purchase, double-check, and run the model number by the manufacturer first:

Oh, and I’m required by law to include the this statement in reference to the following list: Reprinted from the Online Certifications Directory with permission from Underwriters Laboratories Inc. Enjoy!

A & A Sheet Metal Products – better known as Securall

Sentinel Series, Models 31XX , 32XX , 33XX , where XX may be any two digits.

Statesman Series, Models 40XX , 41XX , 42XX , 42XXT , 43XX , 44XX , 44XXT , 46XX , 48XX , 49XX , 49XXT , where XX may be any two digits.

American Security Products (AMSEC)

Rifle Safe Series; Model BF

I should note that despite having only one gun safe on the list, AMSEC manufactures some pretty quality products.  Their HS series gun safe, for instance has a TRTL-30 rating, meaning it’s door can survive a 30 minute attack

Baxley Blowpipe

Series S

Browning

Gold series, Models G6326, G6326F, G6428, G6428F.

Medallion series, Models M6221, M6326, M6326F, M6428, M6428F.

Morgan Fort series, Models MF6221, MF6326.

Platinum series, Models P6326, P6326F, P6428, P6428F.

Platinum Plus series, Models PP6326, PP6326F, PP7326, PP7326F, PP7428, PP7428F.

Residential security containers, Models 6215, 6221, 6326, 6428, 7326, 7428 with or without alpha suffix and/or prefix.

Sterling series, Model S6215, S6221, S6326, S6326F.

BUMIL Safe Company check the New York Safe Company

Models BA780, BA870, BA1070, BA1270, BA1570

C&H Welding – better known as Sun Welding Safes

Scout Series, Models S-22, S-34.

Cannon Safe Company

Traditional (T) Series, Dangerous Game (DG) Series, Cannon (C) Series, Serengetti (S) Series, HR Series (HR), American Eagle (AE) Series, Professional Hunter (PH) Series, Executive Vault (EV) Series, Home (H) Series, Patriot (P) Series, Private Label (PL) Series.

Champion Safe Company

500 Series Models 21, 31, 37, 39

1000 Series Models 19, 22, 31, 35, 41, 43

2000 Series Models 17, 23, 35, 45

3000 Series Models 19, 25, 35, 45

4000 Series Models 22, 25, 31, 35, 50

5000 Series Models 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60

6000 Series Models 30, 40, 50, 60

7000 Series Models 35, 45, 55

8000 Series Models 9, 12

Envirotemp – Frontier Safe Company

Series FM, MS, PI, RG, TB, WC, WR

FireKing

Models 12 , 18 , 24 , 30 , 40 , 72 , 1612-1 , 1715-1 , 1715-2 , 2015-2 , 2115-1 , 2115-2 , 2021-1 , 2021-2 , 2100-1 , 2200-1 , 2218-1 , 2515-1 , 2515-2 , 2521-1 , 2521-2 , 3020-12 , 3115-1 , 3115-2 , 3121-1 , 3121-2 , 3624 , 3624-1 , 3915-1 , 3915-2 , 3921-1 , 3921-2 , 4524 , 4524-1 , 5021-1 , 5021-2 , 5428 , 5428-1 , CSC1612 , CSC2218 , CSC3624 , CSC4524 , CSC5428 , F4130 , F5030 , F6034 , M2460 , M3060 , M4060 , M4072 , MP2460 , MP3060 , MP4060 , MP4072

Fort Knox Security Products

Defender Series, Models D4026, D6026, D6031, D6041, D6637, D7241, D7251, D7261.

Executive Series, Models E6031, E6637, E7241 .

Guardian Series, Models G6026, G6031, G6041, G6637, G7241, G7251, G7261.

Maverick Series, Models M4026, M6026, M6031, M6637, M6041, M7241, M7251, M7261.

Protector Series, Models P4026, P6026, P6031, P6041, P6637, P7241, P7251, P7261.

Titan Series, Models T6031, T6041, T6637, T7241, T7251, T7261.

Legend Series , Models L6031, L6041, L6637, L7241, L7251, L7251.

Gardall Safe Corp – they make gun safes, but the gun safes don’t have the RSC rating

Models FB1212-G-C, FB2013-G-C, FB2013KD-G-C, FB2714-G-C, FB2722-G-C, FB3521-G-C and FB5322-G-C

Gardex

Models SP1FB, SP2FB, SP3FB

Godrej 7 Boyce Mfg Co LTD Security Solutions

Models 1212-11, 1414-12, 1616-16, 1814-12, 2414-12, 2416-12, 2416-16, 3016-12, 3016-16, 3020-16, 3620-16, 4016-12, 4016-16, 4820-16, 6020-16, 6026-16.

Granite Security Products – Granite manufacturers all of the Winchester gun safes

Legacy 14, Legacy 22, Legacy 45, Ranger 7, Ranger 19, Ranger 30, Silverado 22, Silverado 45, Supreme 26, Supreme 53, Western 21, Western 34, BPS-S-592620, WT-592820

Hayman Safe Company

MV5-1215, MV5-2016, MV5-2618, MV5-3020, MV5-4120, MV5-6028

Heritage Safe Company – this is quite the list.  Heritage has a lot of RSC rated safes.  If you’re looking for something in particular, I recommend using Ctrl+F

Centennial Series. Models C2430, C2460, C3060, C306020, C3066, C3660, C3666, C4072, C5672; Centennial Deluxe Series, Models CX2430, CX2460, CX3060, CX306020, CX3066, CX3660, CX3666, CX4072, CX5672; Fortress Braun Series, Models FB2460, FB3060, FB3660, FB306020, FB4072; Legacy Valiant Series, Models LV2430, LV2460, LV3060, LV306020, LV3066, LV3660, LV3666, LV4072, LV5672; Legacy Crusader Series, Model LC3060, LC306020; American Series, Models A2460, A3060, A306020, A3660, A4072; Signature Series, Models S2460, S3060, S306020, S3660, S4072; “E” Series, Models E2460, E3060, E306020, E3660, E4072; Enforcer Series, Models Enforcer2460, Enforcer3060, Enforcer306020, Enforcer3660, Enforcer4072.

Tradition Series. Models T2430, T2460, T3060, T306020, T3066, T3660, T3666, T4072, T5672; Tradition Deluxe Series, Models TX2430, TX2460, TX3060, TX306020, TX3060LE, TX3066, TX3660, TX3666, TX4072, TX5672; Fortress Regal Series, Models FR2460, FR3060, FR306020, FR3660, FR4072; Fortress Deluxe Series, Models FRX2460, FRX3060, FRX306020, FRX3660, FRX4072; Smith and Wesson Magnum Series, Models SW3060M, SW306020M, SW3660M, SW3666M, SW4072M; Smith and Wesson Magnum Deluxe Series, Models SW3060MX, SW306020MX, SW3660MX, SW3666MX, SW4072MX; Smith and Wesson Patriot Series, Models SW2430P, SW2460P, SW3060P, SW306020P, SW3660P, SW3666P, SW4072P; Legacy Valiant Deluxe Series, Models LVX2430, LVX2460, LVX3060, LVX306020, LVX3066, LVX3660, LVX3666, LVX4072, LVX5672.

Legacy Series, Models L2460, L3060, L3660, L3666, L4072; Legacy Deluxe Series, Models LX2460, LX3060, LX3660, LX3666, LX4072; Legacy Royal Series, Models LR2460, LR3060, LR3660, LR3666, LR4072; Legacy Royal Deluxe Series, Models LRX2460, LRX3060, LRX3660, LRX3666, LRX4072.

Ultimate Series, Models U3260, U3866, U4272; Legacy Imperial Series, Models LI3260, LI3866, LI4272

Ironman Safe Co

3000, 3000E, 4000, 4200, 4500, 5000S, 5000T, 5200, 5800

John D Brush & Co, DBA Sentry Group – better known as just Sentry

Models EQ5433, GQ5453, GQ5553.

Models GT8423, GT8523, GX8599, GV8526, GTT8523, ET8523, GX1852, GXW2252H, GXW2252H-S, ET8523-T, GSE1425, GSE1415, GPT1852, GPT1855G, GPT2245G, GPT2255G, GPW1842H, GPW1852H, GPW2242H, GPW2252H, GAW2252G, GAW2245H

Liberty Safe and Security Products – this list will likely confuse you if you’re familiar with Liberty products – have no fear, they’ll clear it up on their site, or, I can just make it easy for you – they’re all RSC rated

L-Series, Models L-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; Models LX-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50.

O-Series, Models O-20, -25, -40, -50.

P-Series, Models P-25, -40, -50.

H-Series, Models H-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; HX-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50; E-Series, Models E-17, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, 50.

J-Series, Models J-14, -23.

R-Series, Models R-4, -8, -12.

D-Series, Models D-13, -15, -17, -20, -23, -25, -27, -31, -35, -40, -45, -48, -50; Models DX-13, -15, -17, -20, -23, -25, -27, -31, -35, -40, -45, -48, -50.

MM-Series, Models Mini Mag.

CL-Series, Models CL-20, -30, -36, -39, Mini Mag JR., Mini Mag Plus, 72 in. Mini Mag Plus.

LW-Series, Models LW-04, -08, -12, -4.75, -7.97, -12.63 .

MG-Series, Models MG-30, -32, -36, -42, -50.

Q-Series, Models Q-17, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50; QX- Series, Models QX -17, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50.

LZ-Series, Models LZ-17, -20, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50, -64 ; LZX Series, Models LZX-17, -20, -23, -25, -31, -35, -40, -45, -50, -64

Porters Pendleton Safes – better known as Pendleton Safes

Knight Series Models 2860, 2872, 3260, 3272

Bishop Series Models 3060, 3260, 3260P, 3072, 3272

King Series Models 3072, 3272

Pro-Steel Security Safes, Div of Provo Steel & Supply Co – better known as ProSteel, they also manufacture safes for Browning

Model X or XX, where X may be any number 5 through 70, with or without any letter prefix, with or without any letter suffix except D.

Model X or XX, where X may be any number 5 through 70, with or without any letter prefix, with any letter suffix, followed by the letter D.

Rhino Metals Inc – they manufacture both Rhino and Big Horn safes

Models 4, 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 20, 21, 21T, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30, 30W, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 45, 47, 50, 52, 56, 58, 60, 64, 72, 200, 250, 300, 300T, 350, 600, 800, 900, 1200, 1615, 1617, 1818, 2019, 2117, 2420, 3027, 3030, 3424, 4021, 5312, 5315, 5517, 5521, 5521D, 5523, 5627, 5921, 5925, 5926, 5928, 5929, 5930, 5932, 5935, 5936, 5937, 5938, 5940, 5942, 5943, 6022, 6022D, 6026, 6030, 6032, 6034, 6036, 6039, 6040, 6421, 6440, 7142, 7144, 7236, 7240, 7250. All Models with or without alpha prefix and/or suffix

Seguridad Y Manutencion S A – SEYMA Safes

G Series Models GA-44D, GA-60D, GB-76D, GC-100D, GC-126D, GC-150D

Shanghai Baolei Industrial Co LTD

Models J1713, J1717, J2117, J2417, J3417, J4517, J4820, J5620

Stack-On Products (Stack On)

Models HGS-1024, -1024E, -1036, -1036E

Sun Safes -  Also known as Eagle Safes

SB-01C, SB-02C, SB-02D, SB-03C, SB-04C, SB-05C and SB-06C

Surimax Cia LTDA

BF-10, -50 , -100, -150, -200, -300, -500, SP-5, -10, -100, GN-100, -200, -300, -400, -500, -600.