Since I started GunSafeHaven about a year ago, I don’t think there’s been a single post where I haven’t mentioned the importance of protecting your firearms from jerkoff crooks, blazing fires, and curious kids.  If all of these weren’t legitimately concerning threats, there wouldn’t be a gun safe industry, and worse, there wouldn’t be a GunSafeHaven (I’m sure you’d all be very broken up over that).

Floods, fires, and burglaries, as implied, are all possibilities, but statistically, you could easily live your life avoiding all three (though I don’t advise risking it).  There is, however, one threat that every gun, knife, truck, and tomahawk owner will always be forced to reckon with.  That force, my friends, is rust.  I feel like I’ve done my readers (hey Ma!) a disservice by only mentioning it in my last post on gun safe accessories…sorry.  Corrosion is a dirty wench – do what you can to keep her the heck away from your guns.

A couple weeks ago, a fella named Travis left a comment on my safe accessories post to bring to my attention, the latest and greatest product in firearms corrosion prevention; the ZCORR (Zero Corrosion) weapons bag.  I checked out their site, had a short email exchange with the company, and picked up a bag to try out for my Remington 870 (seen in picture…with the pink glittery blanket).

Now, I’ve only had it for two weeks, so I can’t exactly offer you a full-blown case study, but based on my findings, I don’t think Travis was full of crap.  It looks like the real deal.

Heritage Packaging, ZCORR’s parent company, was contracted by the Marine Corps to design them a durable, rust preventative bag to store their world-class collection of M-16A2s.  The product was required to be able to withstand extreme temperatures, radical temperature changes, and disgustingly thick humidity levels.  Tested from -40 to 160 degrees F temperatures and 0-95% humidity levels, there isn’t a place on Earth the Marines can’t safely stow these babies (and there isn’t a place on this Earth those God-blessed Marines don’t go).

So, what does every company that experiences resounding success with a government contract do?  Why they take it to the public marketplace, of course!  Heritage did just that with ZCORR, and I gotta say, I’ve never been so excited about a bag before (unless you include those “special bags” I used to buy back in college ).

ZCORR uses VpCLs (Vapor Phase Corrosion Inhibitors) and their own blend of designer packaging to create a barrier within the bag that can protect your gun from rust for up to 20 years.  Just clean it, put it in the bag (looks like a big emergency blanket, but a helluva lot thicker), and seal up the Velcro opening.  They report that if it’s a weapon that you use on a weekly basis, the said 20 years duration may be closer to 5…still though, if it works like their military usage suggests, $11.99 spent on a ZCORR bag is a lot less than the cost of the gallon of Hoppe’s it’s going to take to keep the rust off your gun for the next decade…that’s how I see it any way.

They currently make the product in three sizes; Tactical Weapon (14” x 49”), Universal Pistol (11” x 15”), and Universal Rifle/Shotgun (11” x 54”).  Again, I got the shotgun bag for my 870.  It has a shorter barrel, so it doesn’t come anywhere near to occupying all of the space inside the bag, so I’ll likely squeeze in some extra shells, a couple blades, maybe even a Mag-Lite — ZCORR says these suckers are built to keep the rust off of anything metal.

Anyways, I’m done with my rant on rust.  If this site’s still around in 5 years, I’ll throw up another picture of my shotgun to show you how much rust it still doesn’t have on it.  Thanks for the tip, Travis!

Contents:

Pistol under the pillow

Handgun Safes

Wall Safes

Hidden Gun Safe Furniture

Bed Bunker Concealed Safe

Not all gun lovers have a firearms collection large enough to justify dropping a couple grand on a premium gun safe, and if they ever had the money to make it happen, they’d likely just run out and spend it on more guns (sometimes I secretly wish someone would put a gun to my head and make me spend my life savings on machine guns and ninja swords…is that sick?).

Anyways, the point is, gun owners who have dozens of firearms locked up in their house are definitely a minority among those of us who just have one or two that they keep around for the occasional hunting trip.  Regardless of your story, it’s my healthy opinion that every gun owner has the right, and arguably the duty to arm himself with the tools necessary to properly defend his family and household.  Having accessibility to your firearms, second only to safety, is the number one factor you should take into consideration when planning your defense.

I carry a pistol on me wherever it’s legal to carry one, and that includes getting up off my couch at half time to hit the head.  My wife thinks I’m insane, but I do it anyway for two reasons.  One, guns are just fun to wear and they’re more practical than jewelry, and two, you never know when someone’s going to come breaking through the backdoor.  I don’t know what the statistics are for home invasions in your neighborhood, and frankly I don’t care.  The point is, it’s possible, it can happen, and if it does, it’s the other guy’s face you want exploding all over your bedroom wall in the middle of the night.

Sorry for being so grim, but it’s true, most break ins do occur after bedtime.  For this reason, it’s important, no matter who you are to safely keep a firearm next to your bed, accessible in a seconds notice.  The following are a few rapid access, bedside gun storage solutions that I’ve ordered based on a feature-rich sliding scale.  We’ll start from the bottom:

Pistol under the pillow method:

What’s the fastest way to get to a loaded shotgun in the middle of the night?  Just sleep with it in your bed, dummy!  Seriously though, I’m pretty much not joking.  Bedside mounted gun racks like The Back-Up are the quickest way to arm yourself coming out of a dead sleep.  They’re also the most dangerous.  They work by placing the frame, which is the bulk of the unit, underneath the mattress, leaving the gun rack exposed.  You simply adjust the rack to fit your gun, place it on the rack, and let your sheets hang over it.  Check out the infomercial if you haven’t seen it yet – it’s a real gem.

It would be pretty easy to make one of these, but they’re not terribly expensive; when it’s all said and done, you’re probably better off just buying one.  This bedside firearm storage solution’s biggest flaw is also it’s biggest perk; it’s right out in the open for anyone to have access.  The folks behind The Back-Up explicitly advise against using this product in a home with children, but even if I didn’t have kids, I might shy away from it.  My brother crashes at my house every now and then, and the dude has been known to sleepwalk.  I don’t want him wandering into my room, butting up against my bed, and finding a weapon to hunt his Dreamland critters with.  I’m just sayin’…

If you’re considering this freewheelin’ solution, but you’re looking for a little more flexibility, consider a product like the Quick Draw Gun Magnet.  You can mount it just about anywhere from behind your headboard to under your nightstand, and it will magnetically keep a firearm weighing up to 10 lbs in place.  If you’re an empty nester, keeping your guns out in the open definitely has its tactical advantages, but it still scares the hell out of me.

Handgun Safes

I’m a huge proponent of handgun safes.  They’re priced well, compact, and fit a perfect balance between security and accessibility.  I’m not going to go into too much detail on handgun safes in this article, as I’ve covered the basics of buying one rather extensively already (here’s an article…and here’s another).  I will say, however, that if you just take a minute to read a few feature lists and reviews, you can’t really go wrong.  The options are virtually limitless – my advice is to simply pick the one that meets your needs.  I personally have a GunVault MiniVault biometric safe and a Winchester EVault, and I’ve been very happy with both.

The only downside to these buggers is that they aren’t large enough to secure a rifle or a shotgun.  Of course, a pistol is a heck of a lot better than a flatline.

Wall Safes

Like the aforementioned pistol boxes, wall safes come in all sorts of fun varieties.  I wouldn’t recommend storing anything terribly expensive in one unless it’s extremely well hidden (you might end up with a huge hole in your wall), but most will offer the capacity to stow anything from handguns to handbags.  That said, what attracts me to wall safes is that they’re a smart, secure way to keep long guns in the bedroom.  As wild as The Back-Up commercial is (see above), it pretty well speaks the truth; you’re usually in a better position when you’re armed with a shotgun over a pistol.

Unfortunately, most wall safes don’t come in a size adequate for long gun storage.  There aren’t too many out there on the market.  Homak makes a really inexpensive keyed entry model, which will house up to three rifles or shotguns, but I’m a little weary around the notion of fumbling around for keys in the middle of the night.  However, if you don’t view that as a deterrent, more power to you.

Another wall safe capable of long gun storage is the V-line Closet Vault, which can be mounted or embedded directly into the wall.  The Closet Vault is a great unit.  It’s spacious, easily accessorized, and employs a mechanical push button lock; electrical failures aren’t terribly common, but with the V-line unit they’re impossible.  It’s a bit expensive, but it’s a fantastic product.

One downside to wall safes that I’ve discussed before is that they aren’t quite as accessible as the aforementioned “pistol under the pillow” or even the handgun safe method.  No matter where you palce it, you’re always going to have to spend a few extra seconds getting up out of bed and running across the room to open it – small price to pay for the tactical benefit of an 870?  Perhaps – but it’s still something to roll around the old noggin’.  Here’s some more food if you’re still hungry for my wall safe ramblings.

Hidden Gun Safe Furniture

Ok, so kids in the house (or the fear of keeping a loaded shotgun between the sheets) rule out The Back-Up as an option, you don’t want to put any massive holes in your walls, and handgun safes…well, they just aren’t pretty enough…what bedside firearms storage option does that leave?  Simple – just streamline a biometric gun safe directly into your nightstand.  The good folks over at SleepSafe have near-perfected this build.

They sell office desks, dressers, foyer tables, and, of course, nightstands, all with seamlessly built in fingerprint reading safes for rapid accessibility.  While the nightstand in particular is a fully functional piece of furniture, its top drawer is lined head-to-toe and to-and-fro with hidden 12 gauge steel.  The drawer slides out smoothly when you swipe your finger over the biometric reader, which can be placed on either the left or right side (determined when you put in the build order).

Gun safe furniture (for lack of a better term) ain’t cheap.  SleepSafes nightstands in particular will run you a cool $1400, however, this is no Wal-Mart grade particle board – this is some handmade quality @#$%.  They’ll build your safe with solid Hickory, Oak, or Cherry, and stain it however you’d like.  If you have the funds to drop on a piece like this, it’s a heck of a setup…I’d love to have a piece of this functional furniture in every room in my house, but again, I’m not quite right in the head.

Bed Bunker Concealed Safe

This final unit just barely squeezes into this article, as this list is comprised of bed “side” gun storage; the Bed Bunker is more of a bed “underside” solution.  Nomenclature aside, the real reason I hesitate on including this breed of security enclosures is because it’s not geared for quick entry – at least relative to the other units mentioned.  Unfortunately, I’ve never had the pleasure of seeing one of these suckers in “real life”, but it looks like one heck of a unit – unique in the least.

The Bed Bunker is very similar in both makeup and concept to the discontinued Amsec HC1854, only it’s a lot bigger, thicker, and designed to fill very particular niche concealment.  Overall, it weighs between 670 and 1500 lbs (depending on the model) with 10 gauge steel walls and a 1/4″ thick gas spring-assisted steel door.   Its massive interior allows storage for allegedly 35 long guns and 70 handguns.  It even offers a said two hour fire rating.  Again, I’ve never actually touched one of these, but from reading the spec sheet, and a couple of reviews, it looks quite beastly.

What makes it so unique, as previously stated, is that it lays directly underneath your mattress.  They offer seven different sizes (from twin to California king), fitted just right for your bedroom decor.  Ten gauge steel may be seen as a little thin for the walls of a $2-4,000 safe, but as its name entails, this sucker’s made to stay hidden; cover it up with a flowery bed skirt, and you’re in business.  If the gun safe’s a rockin’, don’t come a knockin’…am I right? (If you’ve ever wanted to make love on a pile of 100 firearms, this is probably the “safest” way to do it

The downside of this unit, and most other horizontal safes stored under the bed, is that you can’t really get to them in a hurry.  You have to slide the mattress off (which would drive my wife nuts, no matter who was breaking in) to get to the safe.  That in itself, wouldn’t necessarily be a terrible hindrance, but the lock (Mul-T-Lock) requires keyed entry.

For casual access, considering the location of the unit, this isn’t really a bad thing.  For an emergency situation, however, I’m afraid to say it’s just too many steps.  In the accompanying video, the guy does it in 10 seconds, which isn’t too bad.  However, he already has the key in his hand, and no one’s sleeping in the bed next to him.   If that’s good enough for you, awesome, but in my house, I’d have to find the key in the dark, wake up my soon to be terrified, paralyzed with fear wife, make her get off the bed (which I just peed because, I too, am terrified) so that I could move the mattress, find the lock, open it…I don’t know, maybe I’m missing something.  I’d love for someone to tell me what it is because I think this unit has a lot of good things to offer.

You don’t want to screw around much when you’re buying a new gun safe.  I suggest investing the same amount of effort and research into buying a new safe as you do when you’re car shopping.  It may sound a little silly, but you could be spending several thousand dollars on your investment, and unlike in the case of an automobile, a smart safe purchase will last you a lifetime.

Unless you’ve been in the business, and know exactly what to look for, researching your potential purchase can be extremely difficult.  You (and me both) need some professional help.  Luckily, there’s plenty of it to go around.  UL, an international product testing company that I’ve praised before, is the leading authority on safe security and fire protection.  Their testing is brutal, and most importantly, consistent and totally unbiased.  If the unit you’re looking at has the UL mark of approval, you’re likely looking in the right direction.

Unfortunately, finding helpful information on their site can be a little frustrating, particularly if you lack experience querying databases.  They have literally millions of pages of data on thousands upon thousands of products that they’ve tested (everything from food services to biohazard storage), and walking into this kind of information blindly can be a bit overwhelming.

Luckily, the good folks at UL were kind enough to create a rather intuitive guide to address the process which can be found here: UL Online Certifications Database Quick Guide.  Take a little bit of time to get acquainted with it – getting the right knowledge can save you a ton of money and heartache – they make it easy to do your homework.

Of course, I’ve taken the liberty of extracting a bit of information on their residential security containers, safes, and safe locks for you and added them below.  Many of the safes listed below aren’t “gun safes” per se (most of those are found in the residential security containers group), however, if converted, they’d more than fit the bill (1″ steel always fits the bill .   Have a look, and let me know if you have any questions:

Safes:

Residential Security Containers

Tool Resistant safe Class TL-15

Tool Resistant TL-15×6 (15 minutes on all sides)

TL-30

TL-30×6

Tool and Torch Resistant TRTL-30

TRTL-15×6

TRTL-30×6

TRTL-60×6

Locks:

Combination Locks

Combo Group 1R

Group 2

Group 2M

Electronic Locks

Type 1

Legal Stuff

See General Information for Safes and Chests

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-15

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-15X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-30

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Tool-resistant Safes, Class TL-30X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical and electrical tools, or any combination thereof. They may be provided with an opening in the body for connection to the chute of a night depository.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs, or are equipped with suitable anchors and instructions for anchoring in larger safes, in concrete blocks, or to the premises in which the safe is to be located.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-30 GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the door and front face.

The body is constructed of 1 in.-thick steel, having a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 psi, encased in not less than 3 in. of reinforced concrete or in a larger safe or other container, or is of equivalent construction.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-15X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools and cutting torches.

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-30X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

[Safes and Chests] Torch- and Tool-resistant Safes, Class TRTL-60X6

GENERAL

This category covers combination-locked steel chests and safes designed to offer protection against entry by common mechanical tools, electrical tools, cutting torches, or any combination of these means .

Performance tests have been conducted against the entire unit.

These safes weigh at least 750 lbs.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

For additional information, see Security Equipment (ALOV).

REQUIREMENTS

The basic standard used to investigate products in this category is ANSI/UL 687, “Burglary-Resistant Safes.”

[Locks] Combination Locks

See General Information for Combination Locks

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 1 locks have 20 working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 1R

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 1R locks have 20 working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation and 20 hours of resistance to a radiological attack.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 2

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 2 locks have a moderate degree of resistance to unauthorized opening.

[Locks] (Combination Locks) Combination Locks, Group 2M

GENERAL

This category covers combination locks intended for attachment to doors of safes, chests, vaults and the like, to provide a means of locking the boltwork against unauthorized opening.

Group 2M locks have two working hours of resistance to expert or professional manipulation.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

For additional information, see Combination Locks (OXJT) and Security Equipment (ALOV).

REQUIREMENTS

The basic standard used to investigate products in this category is ANSI/UL 768, “Combination Locks.”

[Locks] High-security Electronic Locks

USE

This category covers high-security electronic locks intended for use on chests, safes and vault doors to provide a means of locking the bolt work against unauthorized opening.

High-security electronic locks do not necessarily have built-in protection against entry by force; such protection depends largely on the construction of the safe or vault on which the lock is installed.

High-security electronic locks are provided with means for changing the code for opening the lock. It is important that the locks be set on a code of numbers individual to each safe rather than on a common factory setting.

LOCK TYPES

High-security electronic locks are classified as Type 1, Type 1F or Type 2, according to the degree of protection afforded against manipulation or surreptitious entry, and uses for which judged suitable as follows:

Type 1 high-security electronic looks are highly resistant to expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious attacks. Type 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary-resisting safes and chests, such as Class TRTL-15X6, -30, -30X6, -60X6, TXTL-60X6, and on vaults.

Type 1F high-security electronic locks afford the same protection against expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious entry as a Type 1 lock and, in addition, have been investigated in accordance with U.S. Federal Specification FF-L-2740, except for security tests. Type 1F locks are considered suitable for use on safes, security files and vaults where the highest degree of protection is required.

Type 2 high-security electronic locks are considered suitable for use on tool-resistant safes, Class TL-15, -15X6, -30 and 30X6, insulated record containers, and light vault doors.

[Locks] (High-security Electronic Locks) High-security Electronic Locks, Type 1

USE

This category covers Type 1 high-security electronic locks that are highly resistant to expert or professional manipulation or surreptitious attacks.

Type 1 locks are considered suitable for use on burglary-resistant safes and chests, such as Class TRTL-15X6, -30, -30X6, -60X6, TXTL-60X6, and on vaults.

UL MARK

The Security Listing Mark of Underwriters Laboratories Inc. on the product is the only method provided by UL to identify products manufactured under its Listing and Follow-Up Service. The Security Listing Mark for these products includes the UL symbol with the word “SECURITY” above the UL symbol and the word “LISTED” below the UL symbol (as illustrated in the Introduction of this Directory), a control number, and the product name “Tool-resistant Safe, TL-15 Burglary.”

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

UL, in performing its functions in accordance with its objectives, does not assume or undertake to discharge any responsibility of the manufacturer or any other party. UL shall not incur any obligation or liability for any loss, expense or damages, including incidental or consequential damages, arising out of or in connection with the use, interpretation of, or reliance upon this Guide Information.

Reprinted from the Online Certifications Directory with permission from Underwriters Laboratories Inc.  Copyright © 2010 Underwriters Laboratories Inc.®

Many place too much clout in strategies that involve depending on the use of their cars for grab and go survival. If things get hairy enough, you may not have the luxury of an automobile. That said, packing light, and keeping only the bare essentials may be the only concern you can afford to have.

This article covers the emergency backpack supplies that you’ll need to give yourself the best odds of surviving an disastrous situation. Virtually every item mentioned is something that you can fit into one compact backpack. Any perishable items on this list have a minimum of five years, so it doesn’t hurt to start preparing early. Even packing for a vacation is a pain in the butt, so give yourself some peace of mind, and finish packing for Hell on Earth today.

Contents:

Pre-assembled emergency backpack kits

The backpack

Food

Water

Emergency shelter

Fire and light

Survival tools

Communication

Sanitation

First aid

Pre-assembled emergency backpack kits

I suggest a lot of different evacuation supplies in this article. Although most of the supplies is very inexpensive, it adds up quickly. Not to mention, unless you already have a lot of the equipment, it’s a chore to assemble everything. If you’re serious about adequate disaster preparedness, and you want to save some money by purchasing in bulk, I suggest picking up a pre-assembled evacuation kit.

If you go this route, and want to give your family a solid three day advantage, be prepared to spend anywhere from $75 to $250.  Purchasing everything on this list could quickly add up past the latter, so opting for a pre-packaged unit is often the best option.  If you throw down a couple hundred bucks on one of these kits, and five years from now, when all the food is about to expire, you can still use it by throwing a huge “We Didn’t Have an Apocalyptic Disaster Party” with all your gear (kegs are generally sold separately).

The Backpack

You need to be prepared to pack up your bare essentials and get on your way. Local disasters and mass evacuations will not grant you the luxury of staying forever in your fortified dwelling. That said, a good survival backpack is an absolute must.

Choose one that’s logically compartmentalized. In a pinch, there’s no substitute for organization and quick accessibility. Look for a backpack with two or three primary compartments. Some mesh lined pockets on the outside are a plus for fast access. Ideally, you’ll also want to look for a backpack with a self-contained hydration system in the top compartment.

Durability and comfort must also be a priority. A substantial, but inexpensive solution is a heavy duty polyester backpack. This material is lightweight, weather resistant, and you won’t go broke picking the right one. For the sake of comfort, choose a backpack with a good waist strap. That added reinforcement makes a world of difference during a long trek – It’ll save ya from a backiatomy.

The Everest 8045DLX is a solid pack for our purposes. It’s relatively inexpensive, and in the vain of grab-n-go disaster survival, it’s about all you’ll need.

Food

In an emergency situation, your consumption concerns should revolve around having enough sustenance to maintain energy in any situation. Here are a couple food items that should be a staple in your disaster supplies kit.

High-calorie food bars – These are most often found in the 1200, 2400, and 3600 calorie varieties. Rationing just one 3600 calorie bar can provide enough nutritional value to keep an averaged sized man going strong (conservatively) for four days.

They require no preparation, short of opening a sealed package. They are made with only natural ingredients, and their lack of preservatives will help keep your thirst at bay and your water supply stretched. The bars are packaged in pre-cut tablets, for easy rationing. And finally, this US Coast Guard approved meal is safe to eat for five years, so stock up now, and be prepared for the worst in ’15. Datrex is the leader in the high-calorie food bar industry – I’ve sampled their bars and they don’t taste too horrible.

MRE Self-Heating Meals – If you’re traveling with picky children, or just need a little more variety than high calorie food bars have to offer, you should pack your bag with a few MREs.

These “Meals Ready to Eat” are a US military favorite that come in a slew of different varieties. One product, “The Ultimate Self-Heating MRE” is packed with an entree of your choice, a side, a dessert, a snack, a flavored drink, and condiments all in one light-weight, durable container.

The containers are made from aluminum lined polyethylene, preserving them for up to 10 years. And although they’re perfectly safe to eat cold, the self contained heaters only require a tablespoon of water to activate, serving up a fine warm meal.

You definitely save the most on MREs when you buy them in bulk.  Save yourself a few bucks and buy by the dozen.

Water – Stay Hydrated

4.227 oz Water Pouches – You’re probably asking yourself, “Who would package water in such a ridiculously random amount?”. The truth is, there’s nothing random about 4.227 ounces at all. The Red Cross has determined that the average meal during an emergency situation requires 4.227 ounces of water to properly digest.

Rather than playing guessing games, carrying a nice supply of these pouches makes it much easier to efficiently ration your water supply. Personally, I prefer a pint of dark beer with my dinner, but in a survival situation, these water pouches will give you just the right amount you need. They have a shelf life of five years.

Collapsible Water Container – Don’t doom yourself by missing an opportunity to refill your water supply. The Red Cross deems 2.5 gallons of water an adequate amount to keep you plenty hydrated for a day spent in even the worst of Earth’s nasty climates.

Regardless of the brand you choose, ensure that your container is made from heavy polyethylene. This material warrants excellent flexibility for storage while not in use, and provides great durability to prevent leaks and punctures. Polyethylene can withstand extreme temperatures, so don’t be afraid to fill it with ice – water comes in all shapes and sizes – just make sure the opening is large enough to pack those ice chunks.

Water Purification Tablets – Don’t go out like a chump. If the water you’re about to sip looks questionable, don’t chance it. Harmful bacteria, viruses, and protozoa like giardia iamblia won’t end your survival stint with these easy-to-use purification tablets. One small container of Potable Aqua tablets will typically give you enough clean water to fill up your new collapsible container three times.

Emergency Shelter

An emergency evacuation will leave you no time to go house hunting for shelter. What you need is something lightweight, durable, versatile, and easy to store while not in use. A tube tent fits the bill, and is another must have for any disaster preparedness kit.

For around the price of a Big Mac meal, you can pick up a tube tent with the capacity to shelter two people from the elements during an emergency. The model featured at the right weighs just over a pound, provides protection from moisture with its thick plastic material, and comes equipped with a cord, allowing you to stabilize it between two solid structures. Again, for just $5-10, you’re a cold, wet fool not to add one of these to your grab-n-go emergency backpack kit.

Stay Warm

Emergency Blanket – These blankets don’t look too warm, in fact, they altogether look pretty ridiculous. Thankfully, fashion doesn’t carry much clout in the world of disaster survival. For less than a dollar, you can store one of these life savers virtually anywhere – from your back pocket to your glove compartment – bust one of these suckers out to protect yourself from freezing to death. The baked potato aluminum foil look is a deliberate feature designed to reflect over 90% of your body heat in an emergency situation. Shell out a buck or two and add these to your disaster preparedness kit – you’ll be glad you did when you don’t die.

Emergency Sleeping Bag – These sleeping bags use the same radiant heat reflecting technology as the blankets. Put one of these on to keep your body warm while you snuggle up together with your honey, holding each other for dear life under the comfort of your $5.00 tube tent. All joking aside, these incredibly compact sleeping bags are made to cover all sizes from head to toe during an emergency situation. Being quite inexpensive, they’re a worthy investment.

Emergency Ponchos – I don’t care how much body heat you’re reflecting under that sleeping bag, having wet clothes is horribly uncomfortable and potentially dangerous. You never know when it may be time to move – Packing an emergency poncho with your survival kit is the best, and cheapest way to keep your clothes dry, and your body safe during harsh conditions. You can pick up this stylish piece of survival apparel for under a buck.

Handwarmers – At 135 degrees, disposable handwarmers provide an instant, close contact heat source. Grabber handwarmers break down to less than a dollar/piece, and provide up to eight hours of warmth that you’ll be thankful you have. To activate them, simply open the packaging. If you don’t need them for the full eight hours, simply seal them back up in an airtight bag, and save the remainder for later.

Flat Fold Stove – For around $9.00, you can pick up a portable flat fold stove, which can be easily stowed in your emergency prepared backpack. These stoves come with two dozen fuel tablets, giving you the ability to heat yourself and those around you, or cook up a delicious meal. The easy to light, clean burning fuel tabs are able to heat up a liter of water in 8 minutes. Flat fold stoves are an easy to use, integral addition to any survival kit.

Fire and Light

Waterproof Matches – Waterproof matches are essential to emergency backpacks from all walks of life. Even if you fail to heed my aforementioned advice, and travel without a poncho, you can use your soaked box of waterproof matches to fire up your flat fold stove and warm yourself up again. These matches are able to light after being totally submerged – you could go noodling for catfish, and still be able to start a fire. A box of fifty will put a three-quarter dent in your piggy bank. These are a no-brainer.

Emergency Candles – You may not always have the benefit of an electric powered lantern – a candle is a perfect powerless, inexpensive and lightweight alternative. I won’t insult you by explaining what a candle does, but I can recommend one that should be a part of any respectable evacuation kit; the 115-hour ReadyCandle burns for [you guessed it] up to 115 hours on odorless, clean burning liquid paraffin. They’re made with a simple snap-on cap, so you won’t have a huge mess on your hands when you inevitably knock it over. You better getcha one.

Lightsticks – Also great for woodland raves, emergency lightsticks will keep your vision going for 12 hours when power or flames aren’t an option. Simply snap them to turn on the florescent light. For $1.49/piece, you’ll never have more fun being stranded in the wilderness – kids love em too!

Flashlight – If you’re lucky enough to have one (which you will be if you prepare properly), nothing beats a flashlight for staying alive in the dark, and telling wicked ghost stories to evacuees who are already scared out of their minds. Although they come in many different flavors, there are a few key features you’ll want to consider when choosing the right flashlight to add to your backpack.

First, consider the size. Having a 5 million candlepower spotlight on hand would certainly have its advantages, but it will leave you little room in your backpack for the rest of your emergency supplies. You’d be surprised what kind of power you can get out of a compact flashlight without breaking the bank.

Another thing you want to look for is power efficiency. I recommend flashlights equipped with LED lights. They’re bright, compact, easy on your batteries, and have a long bulb life. Some even operate on kinetic energy – simply shake your flashlight to recharge the batteries.

Survival Tools

You can’t eat them, and they won’t keep you warm, but preparing your survival kit with the proper tools is as equally important as your emergency blanket or high calorie food bar.

You may be sick of reading about my lightweight, durable, and versatile theme throughout this guide, but choosing the right tools for disaster preparation is no exception. I strongly recommend you pack at least something with similar functionality as the following items. These items, all small enough to squeeze into your backpack, may be essential to your survival.

• All In One Survival Aid – A compact rescue package, typically found in the 5-in-1 and 7-in-1 varieties. The key features to look for are a signal whistle, liquid compass, signal mirror, fire starter flint, and match compartment.
• Rope – Specifically Nylon rope. Nylon is a very strong, weather resistant material that you can count on when you need it. 50′ should be an adequate length to work with for most jobs and obstacles.
• Swiss Army Knife – Get yourself a compact 12-in-1 system. The Swiss Army knife’s notorious reputation for practicality makes it a staple in your disaster preparedness kit. Although I carry the Swiss Army brand, you can find a decent knock off to add to your kit for under $4.00.
• Duct Tape – Anyone who’s ever used duct tape (that’s everyone) knows that I don’t need to justify this recommendation. You don’t need enough to stick your friend to the wall – 10 yards should do it.
• Leatherman – Packed ripe with survival handiness, a 20 function Leatherman will provide you with one potentially crucial tool that your typical Swiss Army Knife won’t – pliers. A brand name Leatherman is great, but you can find a good cheap one for less than $10.00.
• Folding Shovel – There’s no replacement for the versatility of a compact shovel. Among its many uses, you can use it to dig fire pits, shelter, rerouting the path of water from your tube tent, finding water underground, disposing of your MRE waste droppings…the list goes on.
• Leather Gloves – You may not think to pack a pair of gloves in your disaster readiness kit, but protective leather padded gloves are an inexpensive investment to keep your hands busy and your heart beating. Less than $3.00 will allow you work with your hands much longer, clearing obstructive debris, and preparing necessary shelter. Pack a pair for any able body in your crew.

Communication – Emergency Radio

Regardless of the disaster, arguably the most important key to your survival is keeping yourself updated on the latest information. No simpler means meets this necessity than equipping your emergency kit with an AM/FM radio.

Because it may be quite difficult to determine how long you’ll be stuck in your predicament, having a redundant power supply for your radio is ideal. Popular portable radio power sources, other than batteries and AC, include handcrank and solar energy. This model ergonomically packs all four power features, almost guaranteeing that your radio won’t die. Let’s hope that you have similar luck.

A handy bonus feature that you may want to consider, also included in the Dynamo model mentioned above, is a radio/flashlight combo. With this, you get the blessing of having an extra flashlight on hand, and the priceless nostalgia of your middle school days, camping in your parents’ backyard, looking at dirty magazines and listening to Nirvana’s latest album.

Sanitation

I’m not suggesting that you labor in front of your signal mirror to get your hair just right, but a basic sanitation kit will significantly increase your odds of preventing disease and infection while on your little adventure. Sanitation kits come in a wide variety, many even including luxuries like buckets for waste purposes. However, during an evacuation, it may be advantageous to not be carrying around a bucket full of your feces. Using a compact folding shovel, which we’ll discuss later, you can dig yourself a nice dirt bucket.

When packing your hygiene/sanitation supplies for your evacuation kit, keep it simple. We’re talking a toothbrush, toothpaste, a bar of soap, small container of hand sanitizer, a garbage bag, and a package of tissues. For you pretty boys, you might want to even consider throwing in a comb, a razor, and a sheet or two of toilet paper.

It doesn’t sound like a lot – that’s because it isn’t. You aren’t going to the prom, you’re on the move, living on bare essentials until you find a more substantial living arrangement…then you can crap in that bucket all you want!

Emergency First Aid Kit

You’re not prepared for disaster evacuation if you haven’t packed a solid first aid kit. First aid kits usually range from 30-300 piece collections of simple, but essential medical supplies. For our intents and purposes, I suggest you pack a kit somewhere in the range of 75-100 pieces. You can pick up an 81-piece here for under $10.00.

I won’t detail every first aid piece you’ll need for thorough disaster preparedness, but the following are some of the staple supplies you’ll want to make sure you have when you buy your emergency backpack:

• The Right Case – This may be a no-brainer, but make sure you buy a kit enclosure that makes sense. For instance, the kit mentioned above gives you the option of a hard or a soft case. I think that the durable soft case is the best option for grab-n-go evacuation, as you’ll likely be packing this into a very snug backpack.
• Bandages – Just make sure you have plenty of bandages, ranging in a wide assortment of sizes and shapes, appropriately made to fit whatever wound you wind up with…you dumb klutz.
• Antiseptics and Pain Medicine – Pretty simple – pack cleansing wipes, healing ointment, aspirin, and ibuprofen to clean the wound and keep the pain at bay.
• Supplies For More Serious Injuries – Include trauma pads, gauze, first aid tape, and finger splints to keep yourself alive until you find more helpful help.
• Reference Material – None of this stuff is going to do you any good if you don’t know how to use it. Unless you’re a medical professional, I suggest finding a kit that includes a first aid guide. Also, at least skim it over when you get it. It’s always easier for me to learn new material when I’m not broken and bloodied.

I wrote this guide on putting together an emergency backpack about a year ago for a site I never got around to building.  It’s not directly gun safe related, but a safe is a pretty good place to store your disaster preparedness kit anyway – grab your supplies while you grab your guns.  Besides, this sucker is like 3500 words long, and took me a while to write – I’d hate to just let it rot in cyber Hell.

This Sunday, when you pick up the paper to look for the latest deals, open up to your local sporting goods store catalog, and browse their gun safe selection.  Among the features listed, including steel thickness, gun capacity, and lock types, you’ll likely see a bullet point noting the configuration of the hinges used to open the door.  Based on my personal observations, one of the two exciting selling points are typically applied:

• Offers even greater security with internal concealed hinges!

or

• Offers even greater accessibility with external hinges!

So which is better?  Well, we’ll get to that in just a moment, but the real question you need to ask is, overall, how well put together is the gun safe?  From a security perspective, the better constructed the safe, the less of a role the configuration of the hinges plays.  If, for example, a burglar were to spend his time trying to remove the heavy duty hinges off of the outside of a Liberty National Security Magnum, he’d quickly discover after completing the painstaking feat that his efforts were moot.  What’s really keeping the door locked on the Magnum, isn’t a hinge, it’s the 26 1.5″ solid steel bolts lining the perimeter of the door.

On a top notch unit like the National Security or a Browning Platinum Plus, external door hinges are only used for a couple reasons worth noting:

• Aesthetics – some folks just prefer the old fashioned look of hinges on the outside.
• Accessibility – the ability to open the door all the way as opposed to the limited range enforced by using internal hinges.

The latter is actually a bit of an underrated feature, if you ask me (yeh, I know you didn’t).  Most folks can’t help but to liken safe doors with the regular doors they have hanging throughout their homes.  Most can’t shake the inaccurate association of external hinges with compromised security.  For a quality safe, this simply isn’t the case – in fact, you may have an argument if you said that placing hinges on the outside foils the efforts of stupid crooks who waste their time trying to remove them.

Now, that said, not everyone has the money to spend on a cream of the crop gun safe.  If you’re slumming it a bit with your selection, hinges start to play a little larger of a role in the security of your valuables.  Many cheaper safes don’t include locking bolts on the pivot side of the door, often leaving only a continuous hinge, many of which are crafted from flimsy sheet metal.  Although I’d advise against purchasing a safe that doesn’t include bolts on all sides of the door, if you don’t have a choice, in my opinion you’d be better off with the internal hinge option.

Without shifting this too much to a discussion on locking bolts, I want to briefly mention the importance of observing the details of the safe you’re considering to see how the bolts are mounted to the door.  Over at El Cajon Gun Exchange, they offer some very informative gun safe videos, one of which illustrates the disturbing fact that bolts on many cheaper safes, though thick in diameter, are often mounted and installed with nuts and washers, as opposed to direct integration into the locking mechanism.  If shoddy craftsmanship is evident in the construction of the safe’s locking system, either save your money for something better, or go with the internal option (which still won’t save you against a professional break in, but…eh).

To sum it all up, if you’re going to invest a lot of money into a quality gun safe, it’s up to you to decide what your eye fancies more; the sleek and sexy streamlined look of concealed hinges or the classic appeal of the external persuasion.  Though it wouldn’t necessarily be a deal breaker for me, I personally would likely choose external hinges due to the added accessibility they enable.  On a cheaper gun safe, however, hinges play a little bit more of a role.  If you’re not going to invest in quality, I’d suggest you cover them suckers up!

This post is a collection of general installation tips to consider when setting up your gun safe.  Always consult your manual before you get started – I’m not speaking lightly here – improper installation could not only mean a wasted investment, but a dangerous one as well.

• First things first, decide where you’re going to place the safe.  I’d suggest doing this before you even begin shopping for one.  There are quite a few factors that you’ll want to consider, and these things are heavy and expensive – you don’t want to have do this twice.  For a little more information on the subject, check out my previous post on where to install your safe.  Most newer homes won’t have any trouble bearing the weight of even the heaviest home safes, however, if you have an older home, make darn sure that not only the floors will hold where you’re placing the safe,  but that the route where you’re moving it through your house will as well (stairs, hallways, tile, rotting wood).  Your best best is to either place the safe in the basement, or near a load bearing wall for extra support.  Don’t take any chances.

• Secondly, and I mentioned this in the previously referenced post, please consider hiring a moving service to deliver and install the safe for you, especially if it’s heavy and you have to move it up or down the stairs.  A lot of gun safe distributors actually include free shipping and white glove installation service when you purchase from them.  Do your homework, and you may just be able to ignore half the crap in this post.

• If you do decide to move the steel beast and perform the safe install yourself, get the detailed weight and dimensions of the model ahead of time, and rent an appliance dolly rated appropriately for the weight.  Don’t just use any old hand truck or refrigerator dolly – it can snap, and be all sorts of nasty for you.  If you plan to move the gun safe upstairs or downstairs, look into paying a little extra for a specialized stair climbing dolly like an Escalera or a Powermate.  It may cost you little more, but it will save you a world of trouble.

• As soon as the box comes off the truck, check it for scratches, dings, and any kind of damage that you know shouldn’t be there.  Many companies will only honor damages done during moving for so long (typically 15 days).  Look for problems and report them ASAP.

• Don’t move the safe with the door open, with the safe on it’s back, with it upside down, or any way but upright with the door locked shut.  This means that before you even take it off of the pallet, you need to go over your manual, and not only make certain that you know how to lock the safe door, but make double-certain that you can open it again.  Safe doors can weigh upwards 400-500 lbs, you DO NOT want that sucker swinging open at the wrong time.  And please, unless the instructions specifically instruct you to remove the door, leave it alone.

• I know you wouldn’t be this dumb, but believe it or not, some folks never remove their safes from the pallet.  A pallet might as well be a magic carpet for a thief, and they’ll have no problem taking it off of your hands.  That said, You need to take the safe off of the pallet before moving it, so have a buddy, two, or three steady the safe while you slowly and deliberately scoot it off the pallet one edge at a time.

• If the safe came in a box, perform one final dry run with the empty box through the route where you plan to move it, just to make certain it will clear the doorways and the width of the staircase.  If it passes, it’s time to move it.  Familiarize yourself with the heavy rated appliance dolly (that I know you rented) before moving it.  You don’t want any last minute surprises.

• Once you have your new toy moved to its home (that was easy), I recommend laying down some scrap carpet or a mat where the safe will sit to serve as a moisture barrier to prevent any corrosion on the bottom of the safe.

• Make absolutely certain that the safe is sitting 100% level on the floor before opening the door.  As I mentioned before, those doors are heavy, and you don’t it swinging out of control.  Aside from a runaway door sending you through the wall, it’s a good idea to keep the safe level in case of an earthquake, mudslide, or any other disaster that may shift the foundation of your house.

• Next, anchor the safe.  You must anchor the safe.  If the safe you’re looking to purchase isn’t built for mounting to the floor, don’t even waste your time.  Safes that aren’t mounted can be easily tipped over and pried open, not to mention removed entirely from the house.  If you don’t think that a thief would be able to pull off such a feat, you’re dead wrong.  Determined burglars are wildly resourceful.  Crooks have been known to use items lying around the house like golf balls and mop handles to convey thousand pound safes right out the door.

• Not all anchoring systems are created equally.  Though most quality gun safes come equipped with the adequate pieces for the job, you can never be too certain.  Anchoring is one of the final steps of the safe install, so let’s finish strong.  Double check that you have the right bolts for the surface on which you’re installing them.  Don’t install concrete bolts into your wooden floors or vice versa.  It’s also never a bad idea to add heavy washers or backing plates between the gun safe floor and the bolt heads.  In the event that a burglar attempts to pry the safe off of its anchored foundation, you don’t want the bolt heads to rip holes in the safe floor.

• Optionally, for an additional layer of redundant security, you may want to anchor your safe to the wall as well.  Just check the measurements of your studs, and well as the anchoring potential of your safe.

• Sometimes the safe door needs to be adjusted after delivery.  If your door has any extra play, you’ll need to tighten it so that you feel some slight resistance.  If you tighten it too tight, however, it can wear down the pins and the locking system over time.  A sure sign of an over tightened door is if you notice that the bolts seem to retract by themselves.

• Well, that’s about all there is on how to install a gun safe (and move the SOB).  Again, strongly consider hiring a moving crew, but if you’re going to do it yourself, study your safe manual, and DON’T TAKE ANY SHORTCUTS – on so many levels, it’s just not worth it.

Providing your firearms and valuables with adequate protection can get expensive in a hurry. Premium home gun safes can easily run you several thousand dollars. If you’ve read any of my other posts, you know that I subscribe to the idea that trusted security is worth the associated price tag. That said, I can certainly understand the heartache often caused by separating with a couple grand, and I’m not the only one. For this reason, a lot of people look into to saving a few bucks by purchasing used gun safes, and fundamentally, there’s really no problem with this. The problem is generally introduced when an uneducated shopper enters the mix.

Other than shopping for groceries, I do just about all of my purchasing online, and a lot of folks tend to follow the same trend. There’s really no reason why shopping for a gun safe has to be any different. In a previous post on finding gun safes for sale, I made note of a couple good places to purchase safes online. Gunsafes.com, the site that I highlighted, however, doesn’t offer used gun safes. For safes of the second generation variety, stick to what you know, and look at Craig’s List and eBay. And if you haven’t been to GunBroker.com, get there – they’re essentially an ebay for firearms collectors. Auction sites like these are definitely the quickest way to get a feel for what’s out there.

That said, there are a few things you should strongly consider when purchasing a used safe online (or anywhere for that matter). First, find out if it costs more to purchase a used gun safe as opposed to a new one. That’s a no-brainer, right? Yeh, sort of, but safes, especially the ones worth owning, are incredibly heavy. If you got your panties in a bunch paying $25 for shipping on your recent eBay TV purchase, you may be in for a surprise when it comes time to calculate the freight on a 1000 pound steel box.

Often times, sellers will work a little extra into the price, and advertise free shipping. This is usually a legitimate tactic, in fact Gunsafes.com does the same thing with their new safes, however, they also offer extremely competitive rates on delivery and installation services when you buy your product from them. Free shipping on that Browning Platinum may sound appealing, but do you still consider it to be free when you have to move the 1500 lbs beast down a flight of stairs? Again, there’s nothing wrong with buying a used safe from an online auction site – just make sure you weigh in all the factors before you get too excited.

Ok, so we’ve established that shipping is a biggie – what else should you look out for? You need to look for details. Check for surface scratches on the exterior, wear and tear in the carpet, whether the interior lights function correctly, any noticeable smoke or mildew damage, damage to the convertible shelving, the performance of the lock functions…Obviously this stuff is going to be far more difficult to look for with an online purchase, but you need to decide what’s important to you. If you can live with a few scratches in the name of saving $100, go for it.

Buying a safe with a faded paint job is one thing, but there are a couple of additional factors that you may want to take a little more seriously when purchasing a used gun safe. In other posts, I’ve showcased the importance of frequently changing the combination to your electronic lock. Unfortunately, not everyone heeds this advice. Most gun safe electronic locks open with a four button combination. For a burglar, the next best thing to an open safe, is a lock with four worn buttons (don’t believe me – look at the space bar on keyboard). Sure, he has to get the four in the correct order, but if he’s made it as far as your safe, he’s probably picked up a few clues along the way (cards in your wallet, your mail, your address…). If the used gun safe that you’re considering buying has a worn out lock, you can always buy a new one. Just be sure to factor in the cost of the new keypad, and the installation charge from your local locksmith.

The final factor, and perhaps the most overlooked when buying used discount gun safes is the warranty transfer. Many of the industries leading safe manufacturers offer lifetime warranties on their products as major selling points. For instance, if you have a break in, a fire, or a flood, and your Liberty safe gets damaged, Liberty will ship your old one out, and replace it with a new one (if repairs aren’t possible) for free – for life! Obviously, that’s some quality peace of mind, and fortunately for those looking to buy a used Liberty gun safe, that same lifetime warranty transfers to the new owner.

This, however, isn’t always the case. Winchester, a brand of fantastic, relatively affordable gun safes also offers a fantastic warranty, but it only applies to the ORIGINAL OWNER. If receiving the benefits of a warranty is the least bit important to you, take a second to read the fine print, or better yet, just give the manufacturer a call, and find out ahead of time. You’re not an idiot if you bought a safe without a warranty, but you’re an idiot if you didn’t consider it ahead of time.

Those are just a few tips to help you make a good decision on buying a used gun safe. Just one man’s opinions, but I think they’re pretty good.

This post primarily discusses strategies to plan out the ideal location of where in your house you want to place your gun safe.  Check out this post for tips dealing specifically with the safe install.

Most reputable gun safe dealers offer a delivery/moving service as an additional option.  The heavier the safe, the stronger I would recommend using the service.  You may have to pay a moving crew a couple hundred dollars to move your 1500 lbs safe up a flight of stairs, but I still consider it a worthy investment – insurance if you will.

You don’t want to hire safe movers because you have two buddies coming over to help you, and one of them has a dolly he’s going to let you borrow?  Sounds like a fun afternoon…until the dolly snaps, half way up the stairs…If you’re insistent on doing it yourself, form an adequate crew, and strongly consider renting a stair climbing appliance dolly rated for the weight of your gun safe.

Ensure that your floors are rated for the load capacity of your gun safe.  Safe manufacturers aren’t in the habit of designing their products to bust through their clients’ floors – it’s bad business.  Safes are generally built with perimeter dimensions ideal for evenly distributing their heavy weight.  However, if you have an older home, or you’re considering putting your safe in a room with weaker floors (an attic), or a surface traditionally unfriendly to gun safes (ceramic tiling), check with the builder or a contractor before making any final decisions.  If you are installing the gun safe on wood floors, particularly upstairs, position it so that it’s distributed evenly over the joists.  If you need to, install additional joists before placing the safe.

A basement may seem like an ideal place for a gun safe.  They have the strongest load bearing floors in the house, concrete walls and floors are easy to bolt the safe to a secure location, and though I think gun safes are beautiful, some of your guests may appreciate your war chest out of their direct sight.  If you need to store your gun safe in the basement, invest in flood protection.  Seal your walls, fix questionable external water sources, and get a professional opinion.  On the safe itself, seal any external holes and purchase a safe built for protection against water damage.  Employing their FloodGuard brand, Sentry Safe is a manufacturer renown for their water resistance.  The professionals will tell you, your gun safe is more likely to suffer from a bout with a flood than a fire – go ahead and put the safe in the basement – just invest in some swimming lessons first.

As I mentioned before, a well-made gun safe is a beautiful thing.  You may be tempted to put your prize in plain view like that marvelous lady leg lamp from The Christmas Story.  However, if you really care about the valuables inside, you’ll fight off the urge.  Keep it out of view from windows, and if you have the option, don’t make its presence too obvious from within the house.  Put it in the basement or the attic if you must, just review the aforementioned suggestions first.

Many folks may see this as going to extreme measures, but you may want to consider installing false walls for concealment.  A well constructed gun safe is a marvel of security engineering, but it’s also a huge burglar bullseye.  Put yourself in the bad guy’s shoes for a second – if someone spent $2000 on a safe, finding out what’s inside may be well worth the trouble.

If you can, place the gun safe in a room where one or two of its sides are walled off.  Most safe manufacturers put their efforts into making the door the most resistant feature.  This is great, but it often leaves the remaining walls as primary targets for drilling and cutting attempts.  Installing the safe flush inside a corner or a tight corridor will greatly increase your gun safe’s protection from break-ins from any angle.

Outside the safe

If you own heavy power tools or cutting torches, store them out of plain view or in a separate location altogether – you don’t want to give your thief any new ideas (or the tools to execute them).

If you don’t have the safe hooked up to a dedicated security system, pretend that you do.  Install fake wiring, smoke detectors, a dummy camera – investing a little money in a bluff just may cause your burglar to reconsider his evening plans.  Of course, if you really want to go the extra mile, you could invest in the real thing.  Here’s a great resource on burglar alarm info.

Inside the safe

If you’re an avid reloader, and have a large inventory of primers, don’t store them in your safe.  If one goes off, they can all go off…damage control people.

“A tightly-sealed metal box with a large quantity of powder inside is a bomb”.

I couldn’t have said it better myself.  Take it from this 6mmbr.com writer, and don’t store any powder in your gun safe.  The results could be a bad kind of spectacular.